dubbprince
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Everything posted by dubbprince
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having probs starting mine...and found out it could be the grey plastic bit under the air pipe...in front of the airbox. If its undone, it'll cause an airleak and cut off injectors...but yours sounds more like pump.
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a haaa!!! Thanks ever so much gavin...i knew it could of been that! Right now all i need to do is get me lead back on and we should be away. Would you know how far i need to screw that brass screw back in? I think i turned it anti clockwise 3times...what would happen if it was out too much?
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since it may not be a fuel problem, its not the pump or relay...yet. So i've made a new post called "16v leads need to go back on" Please guys...the car has to start sooner or later.
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Where is the best place to buy tyres from in west london
dubbprince replied to BeavisJem's topic in Suppliers Forum
i have this same problem on one of my wheels...so you think i should get it removed and place it back on? I'm sure it has no puncture, just lost its seal when i hit a curb once...ever since PSi drops to 12psi...its a 205-40 17...i normally put 32psi in, is that ok?? -
how do people...i'm pretty sure i asked this in an older post, but now i've lost it. So the problem is: I removed the spark lead furthest left of the 16v block and now i can't get the thing back on! I've noticed a plastic white thing (possibly the suppressor) inside around the spark plug. Is this the reason i can't push the lead back onto it? Do i remove this and place it back inside the lead and try again...i'm pretty sure its not meant to be like this. BUt i don't know what the inside of the lead should look like...this is the first time i've ever taken off a lead. ALSO- what is the grey round plastic thing which connects under the air pipe (what would be replaced by a Power Rohr)...it has a 2pin connector plug on it...well it was undone from the air pipe. Would that be the reason why i can't start?? I've cleaned out my ISV, and its attaching hoses...just need this lead back on. and try that. :roll:
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spark plugs are set deep into the engine??
dubbprince replied to jedi-knight83's topic in Suppliers Forum
on this same sort of note...i've pulled one of the leads out of the engine and its HUGE! IT has a rubber elbow, then long plastic black tube, then inside is a black wire with the round connector to sit on top of the plug. Having also looked inside the actual hole in the engine, i can see another plastic thing...with a hole on top of it and i need to get my lead back inside! Any ideas? it looks like the connector won't pass through the plasic bits hole. Do i remove that? then place it inside the actual lead...thus only leaving the spark plug showing inside the hole. Thanks! Sanj. -
just took off the ISV now...it looks like a turbine one end and 2 pin plug connector the other. I'll clean it and also try running it without it too. Is it supposed to hum and slightly vibrate even when engines off? I got the car started using my dads V6 to jump it...and it stays revving till i let go of the throttle cable. I've tried to pull the brass screw as far out as possible and the ISV doesn't pick it up, so no idle. In an hour i'll remove the back seats and see if the pump is priming inside the tank, which i was told it was inside the tank.
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caiosG60..thanks for that, but my revs stay high while my foot is on the gas, but when i let go it dies on me. Problems matching mine from past topics inc: 2 fuel pumps possibly dying. relay for fuel pump or fuse. Hall Effect sender in dizzy cap. ISV needs cleaning. 5th injector or the cold start valve does not work. Been told to check for fuel pressure first, then a spark, then ISV. The alarm is a Toad Ai606. Battery is dead now as i tried starting tonight and it wouldn't have it. If i find out i have fuel when i remove the hose ont he air box. then pumps are fine, if i ground the plugs and get a spark, then plugs are ok. If the brass screw idea works then ISV is also fine. The 5th injector isn't much use anyway, but to make sure ISV is fully working i've noticed an old post saying i had to reverse water temp and ISV plugs round on the back of the engine near the gearbox. ideas still welcome. P.s does anyone know where any of the above stuff is..apart from Brass screw, and hall sender. Need location of ISV, fuel pipe on air box, pumps, and which plug is which on back of engine. Remember guys, it s 1.8 16v. Thanks!! Sanjay.
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top job jimbo...totally love that car, good choice and about time!!! :lol:
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it is...i'm starting to think its the toad to be honest. My car starts then cuts out! it has a spark and fuel pump is priming...i've been told to check my ISV, by turning the brass screw anti-clockwise a bit...then trying to start it. I did that tonight and car just doesn't start...so must be dead battery now!
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thanks for ya help joe. I'm glad it isn't inside the tank, i'll have a look and see what i see. How would i clean the lines if its blocked? i guess i'd need to reverse the pump and drag the cr-p back through. or maybe i could put some cleaner stuff inside the fuel tank?? need a mechanics opinion..Chris aka mr CorradoNOS can you be of any help mate? My mate said to dry the spark plugs...check oil and water...all seems fine to me so far. i'll have to find a way to check the lines for blockages..thats number1 on the list. Basically car is being starved of fuel... what i dont get is when i de-activate my toad alarm, i start the car..it runs for 2seconds and revs drop and it dies again...and as it does, the indicators flash once. Is the alarm doing this problem??
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any news so far pal?
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thank god for that! So joe...its not in the fuel tank like the above post says...keyhaywire writes it is. So thats the pump noise i hear when i turn ignition on! Cos i can still hear it. My car starts for literally 2seconds! then cuts out again...could it be the fuel filter then?? How would i test if its the pump near the tank in the back is working??
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cheers mate... I've sent you an email of the problems its caused me so far! now i'm thinking it really wasn't worth the £3000 asking price...let alone the £2800 i bought it for. Hopefully next two weeks will be spent fixing all work at a cost of around £200-250.
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omg thats the worst... on the same sort of note...does anyone think i should remove the fuel pump and see if its still pumping?? I'm thinking maybe it pumped through the dredges in my tank and blocked the injectors slightly...but that wouldn't stop the car completely i don't think. How much is the cheapest pump+fuel sender...i'm geussing mine would be a pierburg...would GSF have one under £100? :roll:
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had a real bad night tonight...i went to a cruise in milton keynes, left the car for 1hr atleast. Came back to shoot off home at 10pm and car just wouldn't start. i had atleast 6of my mates pushing it accross the hockey stadium car park! In the end i phoned the AA and surprise surprise...he said it was probably the fuel pump gone dead. It was ticking over, i even got a mate to drive to a petrol station and fill up a jiffy can to refill the car...had enough fuel and voltmeter inside the car showed 13V, no blown fuses... I can't believe this car is costing me bucks in only 3months of buying it. :roll:
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spot on kev...i'll try my best to contact a few places this week when i get time. Dubster- thanks for that mate, what do i need to have the later spec fogs/indicators then? My screws are lookin a bit rusty. smiff- the evosports site has the standard lights for sale, so what exactly do the US spec lights look like? I think it'd be so much easier to buy a spare set of lenses and get them polished by a glass place.
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yeah theres no holes for screws on the indicators...they look like small 'RING' fogs you can buy from halfords. Would cutting some perspex sheeting do the job? Has the guy also painted the partitions black in the inside of the lamp..someone else on here did that when they took the lenses off to clean them. The Vr666 corrado's lights seem to be kinda like something In-pro produce for the mk4 polo...glass polishing may just work!
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just out of curiousity....seein as though Eug has made his mind up as to what to do. What have you guys replaced your standard dash speakers with?? I hear Alpine make a 1" version for the centre speaker...and the sizes of the other two are 4" i heard...but how deep?
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whoops...Cheers Andi! i just thought all SLC's were just corrados with the extra's...didn't know they could have different engines... :oops: i guess its just a US spec G60...so the super lux coupes need to have a VR6 engine to make them superior...hmm. :cry: Tempest- still VERY nice...love the rocco too mate, its not everyday you get to see them out on the road, its a shame they stopped making them so early on.
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cheers henny..i'll give it a try. I wonder if the rain sensors from the new honda's could be somehow fitted to the corrado...another post i guess. :?:
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i'm not sure if its the same stuff bally is on about...but the paint place i normally go to has stuff called 'silkaflex'....or black silicone mastic. Its used to bond windscreens and i used to to put the sideskirts on my old polo. VERY STRONG!! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED...ONLY USE A BIT HERE AND THERE...JUST A FEW DOTS WILL HOLD THEM ON. obviously use masking tape to hold them in place, and it takes around 12hrs to set. Its a rubbery sorta glue...so when the chassis flex's, your skirts should remain fine. the place i go to is: Autopaint international. They've got branches everywhere....just take a look in yellow pages and find spray paint dealers for cars...they do trade and public deals. Should cost around £6-8 per gun. Sanj.
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i'd go the MDF way too mate... The shelf is very stiff, so 6x9's shouldn't be a problem depending on the magnet...but 7x10's may be a bit heavier...after a long while the shelf may start to warp or sag a bit between the speakers. Just make your own stealth shelf with straps inc. and it should take you just a few hours depending how good you want it. Also, you have to think whether you want them hidden or on show.
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i have 17's on the car and normally the wheels want to follow the lines in the road..thats when i get veering...but yours sounds more like tracking being off. Try getting it laser aligned and see how it goes...but i'd personally shell out for the spax adjustables too. hahaha. sanj. :lol:
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what the... So i just turn the wipers onto the first setting, then off again when i have the tap gap i want...then on again?
