potatonet

yeah its all good, we dont understand either hahaha, so anyone think that a 25"x10"x2.5" intercooler is too small? I think it will work for the application..... or at least Im hoping.

no but its the noise that sounds like screeching, slipping belt would be continuous and it doesnt do it when I have started moving

good idea, I think it has air in it though, it makes a little bubbling noise when it tries to turn. I also mean it jitters when I turn it too, the resistance changes as I turn it, it gets lose then hard then loose.

on cement I turn the wheel one way and it has trouble turning it and it screeches, same thing the other direction, on gravel, no problem turning the wheel, little screech at end, no leaks in the rack. power steering pump?

hehehe you shall see. =-)

thnx guys, decided to go with a rising rate and 30# injectors, =-) thanks for the tips

I need the ECU adapter piece with wires at least 8" back for digifant I cars, I picked up 2 from the scrap yard and they were both Digifant II. I saw the instructions on SNS's website on how to change the wiring but it makes zero sense... has anyone ever done this? Pin # 21 needs to be moved to #5 on the plug The wire that is in pin #5 gets soldered to pin #7 wire.Pin #17 gets moved to pin #15(full throttle switch).You need a jumper wire from #14 to #23.Pin#21 gets swapped to pin#20 on the plug. got 21 and 5 out, undestand that 5 is a ground, and 7 is a ground, understand why 17 to 15.... but why a jumper wire from 14 to 23? and why does 20 get swapped with 21? anyway if I get a Digifant I car, not a corrado mind you we only have about 4000 left working in the US and very few crashed ones with usable parts. I dont need the whole harness just the plug and wires....

hey sam when you soldered your ECU back together did you notice a funny little khaki colored electrical component? if you know what I am taking about there were a few of them all around the board but I was wondering if you knew if it actually connected with pin #2? I cant remember..

this one is a bosch one, but Im looking for one with a gauge on it.

thanks for that steve but I need adjustable ones. Ive seen a bosch adjustable one before and I would buy it but I dont know where to get it.

whoa who whoa there turbo....... first of all, you installed it already? and the car is running? did you get a different ECU to run the 250kpa sensor? basically one mapped for 250 kpa? the new map sensor is good up to 21psi, you have 1 atm absolute because your ECU isnt vacuum sealed. you can put your ISV back in when you get an ECU to run the extra 7.5 psi that your car will throw at it. otherwise the car will release the psi @ 15 again. you cant install the map sensor without and ECU it wont change anything.

2 bar basically is what I will be running 36 lb injectors at, IE 66% duty cycle.... what is the standard corrado fuel injector lb per hour rating? I forget, I think it was 24 lb? these injectors will be running that rating cause they have to? I can run them at 70% which is plenty for fuel injection

who makes a good adjustable FPR with a built in gauge that can go as lower than 25 psi? I need it to go 29 but I want the ability to go lower. IT MUST HAVE A BUILT IN GAUGE, I dont want additional gauges everywhere, I just want it built on. anything right now helps as I need 2 of them.

that thing allows me to change a "fuel tank" from one to another on a truck normally right? well this will go in reverse and instead of feeding in from the dual ported side it will feed from the single ported side, when I flick a switch it will change which one of those 2 outputs that it goes to, 1 high presure FPR for the charger 1 low pressure FPR that will allow me to get gas mileage. the bottom ports on the thing are the return lines. (the blocked off ones)

this is a fuel tank switch valve I will run my FPR's off of. what I dont know is if its direcional, if it is I have to run the fuel into the out and out of the in.

riley I thought u had a G60 this whole time.....

Darren I hope you read this, I am changing my plan once again, the problem with running dual sets of injectors is the fact that I have no room in there and making adapters is painful and takes a lot of time, not to mention the fact that I would have to make a new intake manifold because the injectors would be in the way, so what I am going to do is back to stage 1 with the fuel. I will be running 36 lb injectors with a 2 bar FPR and a 3.5 bar FPR, this will give me a 66% duty cycle when running the 2 bar, I have heard you can go as low as 45% but things get funky. this seems to be the only solution that I can think of that doesnt require modifying everything in the engine bay to get the proper fuel. when running at 3.5bar I get 42 lbs.

um yeah I just found out that the resistance in that MAP sensor is absolutely ridiculous! 18000 ohms of resistance @ 1 Atm! thats like a current of .0001 A, better for me but freakishly low!

anyone know the electrical current running through the MAP sensor at any given time? yes I do need to know this to find out the voltage drop I will get if I move the ECU as the hose going to it must be 1M exactly... dont ask why. actually I need to know the current through the whole ECU and the fuel rail as well.

haha once I send it =-), they're all mine!!!!!! PM sent sam =-)

ok so the links for the pics are... http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/p ... CT0035.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/p ... CT0034.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/p ... CT0033.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/p ... CT0032.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/p ... CT0031.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/p ... CT0030.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/p ... CT0029.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/potatonet/28.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/potatonet/27.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/potatonet/26.jpg all the seams are being TIG welded together... if you see where I am thinking its gonna be weak you will understand why I think that. I am also welding it to the support cube thing going across, did the math and its 360 psi on the aluminum if accelerating at 100 m/s^2 forward, which really is nothing for the acceleration that its feeling, but I am overengineering it so I never have to worry about it. yes I have a random collection of bolts and yes the support cube thing is being welded to the bracket with tapped holes.

hmmmm 1 axle is shot, that could explain it, completely forgot about that one, wheel bearings are ok I think, and the tires are balanced. thanx

so my steering jogs back and forth constantly, doesnt matter whether I am braking or driving, if I brake and turn left it goes away, if I break and turn right it gets worse, the constant jogging is what gets me. =-/ anyone, car is aligned, rack doesnt leak and is relatively new, warped disks maybe? axles are tight and wheels are tight... =-(

so for an update, I am taking pictures of the pieces tonight and will post them up. I got everything CNC cut out of aluminum by a local guy, we made 1 mistake which is why it isnt mounted into the car right now, we were off by .36" from the belt side of the mounting plates, IE we came up too short and we need longer pieces, total weight without adding an FMIC 46.8 lbs, compared to the 20 lbs of a standard G60 charger. when I post the pictures you will understand what I am talking about, I am worried about stress on the aluminum though and dont know how much the 1/2" aluminum can handle. Ive got side to side I just need front to back strength now.

the should be because the trunk plate is different, =-) I can get hangers welded