VWVW

Cheers supercharged...now that you mentioned it I ve just checked...the stubby one is the new type of bolt with a smaller 18mm head Strength is still 10.9 as stamped on top of the bolt.

Yes as boostmonkey says, the stubby bolt (number 7) is just to locate the radiator panel. There are 2 of these The bumper bolts. There are 4 of these are No 5 in the diagram The engine bolt is No 6 in the diagram there are 2 of these. The bolt that sheered number 7 was a brand new bolt. These bolts must have been done to death by others who have taken their bumpers off before...Someone must have a torque settings for them :)

No worries mate...Managed to get the sheered bolt off after an hour. Drilling was no good. I was lucky in that I had a small kink in the sheered bolt and used a srewdriver on it it as leverage forcing the thread to spin millimeter by milemeter just get enough thread out of the hole so that there was enough for the Erwin bolt gripper to grip. Phewww...!!! I ve just hand tighten everything at the moment so just to confirm all three bolts 5, 6, 7 are 25NM

...oops think I may have sheered bolt number 7. Can anyone confirm it should be 85NM. Gonna try and drill it out cheers chaps

Hi Chaps Anyone know the torque settings on a vr6 for bolts 5, 6, and 7 thats on the diagram thanks in advance

Not sure if you are aware. VW dealership also accept old calipers on an exchange basis. Not sure what is the going rate for a 16v. My front calipers on a vr6 was 60 pounds EACH all in on an exchange basis. Saves a lot of messing about.

Thanks for the pics Judith and Kipp I will get on it

Kipvw have you got a pic of your magic tool...Butterfly has written a detailed description but I cant picture it in my head at the moment due to lack of oxygen in my head from trying to get that rubber bung in :) Brute force will not work...nearly stapped myself with the screwdriver. Iam calling it a day!!!

I ll give it a go with some fairy liquid...before i pack up for the day...

Struggling to put my new rubber bung back on to the cross member...Has anyone manage to do this with ease before.

Yeah would love to get the shrick shot blasted in the future but its low in the priority list at the moment. As soon as I get the front end done. I think the heater Matrix will be next as preventative maintenance. How is your front end parts coming along you managed to get them blasted and coated yet ?

Only local to me so should be able to make this one :)

Front end bits and the front brake carriers blasted and powder coated. Given the condition that they were in before I cant believe the transformation. Everthing looks and feels solid again no more crusty bits of rust. Really pleased with it and worth the two weeks wait. Will be spraying the cross member and radiator support a few cans of cavity wax in the "hollow areas" before putting everything back together New engine and bumper bolts, cross member rubber bungs were ordered for the assesmbly. Sometimes I cant believe the amount of time I spend doing this car up :)

Can the front ABS ring be powder coated without affecting the abs sensors sensing ability ?

Cheers for the feedback guys...Looks like it is the going rate at the mo...Have checked with Kwik fit and they say it will be £200 pounds for a similar job.

My sister has a toyota yaris T sport. She told me she had paid 180 pounds to have 2 rear springs supplied and fitted in Halfords. Sounds a bit on the expensive side to me. What do you guys think??? May have to pop down to halford to see them tomorrow about it.

Front end is still in pieces at the moment and have been for 4 weeks now…How time fly!!! I REALLY missed driving the raddo especially with the nicer weather we have been getting. Front end parts were dropped off two weeks ago for blasting and to be powdercoated in satin black instead of gloss black and should be ready soon. Whilst the front end is all dismantled. 1. I have dismantled the headlight unit. Cleaned it inside out and reassembled. So no more green coloured nasties molds anywhere. After all the hard work I should really have bought some new lens …but as they are not broken. I will do that at a later date…just want to priorities expenses at other areas at the moment. 2. Have degreased the engine the best I could and treated any rust area on the engine itself with a coating of genolite rust inhibitor with the intention of painting it at a later date. 3. Decided to give the positive cable end a sand down and clean up on the starter motor. I ended up ripping a chunck off the starter motor in the process Dohhh!!! As I loosened the bolt. The metal part (its pretty huge) on the positive cable rotated and put pressure on a sensitive part on the starter motor and took that section off so be careful if your gonna do the same. Make sure it doesn’t rotate with the nut as you loosen it. So took the old starter motor for a genuine VW exchange one. 4. Fitted new genuine corrado header tank and cap…It really makes a huge difference compared to the old one. I don’t think I will need to rock the car ever again just to see where the coolant level is anymore. 5. Have used a tin of VW spray wax but they were so expensive...so source an alternative one from tool station which seems to be pretty good at only £3 pounds a can. Only problem with the tool station wax is that you cant attach a straw to it for precise application...so I took the spray cap off another can that allowed a straw attachment and place it on the tool station one instead.

Hi there...Have you got a pic of the above parts to show condition they are in cheers

Please put me down for a firm order aswell. To pick up from Kip initially or (from anyone else who is picking up from kip that is closer to me in the north west if thats ok) How soon can you get them made or have you got any set made up already ? cheers

Hi there Just wondered what are my options…I think the original VR6 coolant tank is pretty expensive…Iam not to sure about going for the mk4 header tank either as it involves a bit more work with the pipeing to make it work. What other “plug and play” header tank can be used…I am sure I read before that a Header tank from a VW fox will fit or from a corrado 8V can anyone confirm. cheers

Got a bit heavy handed whilst degreasing the engine area today and managed to snap off one of the cable spade on the oil filter housing…couple of questions 1. Is 5 amp the correct female spade for this cable ? also I noticed that this cable doesn’t have a rubber bell housing around it like the other cables have…Is this normal or is mine missing ? 2. To the left of the oil filter housing is the dip stick metal pipe. Can this pipe be removed. I was thinking of getting it powder coated with the other bits I have. Is it just a case of loosening the nut at the top and it will just pull out. Cheers

I ve seen this on the Frost website...http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9253&frostProductName=Black POR-Starter Kit This starter kit allows you to try out the 3-step rust stopping system. Includes Marine Clean, Metal Ready and POR-15 paint together with 2 brushes and latex gloves. Te POR-15 Starter Kit contains: - 1x Marine Clean (236ml) - 1x Metal Ready (236ml) - 1x POR15 Rust Preventive Paint (118ml) - 2 wooden handle paint brushes - a pair of high dexterity surgical latex gloves

If you could get a pic showing the condition together with the abs rota and hub that would be great...

Think you still have to clean off any flaky rusty metal and degrease before hot dipping galvanising on the radiator support etc There is a recent thread here about Powder coating versus hot dipping for more info...I dont think I want to put the calipers on the car...I just want to use them as massive paper weights or ornaments on the mantle piece :)

If the price is still the same as when you quoted before or not far off it then I will definately want a set and will collect from KIPVW. cheers