VWVW

Hi Alex You mentioned you can post all lines out except the two front to rear, as these are super long. what will the postage cost be on all lines except the two front to rear where Iam hoping to collect from Kip in the future Also Iam No sure if my PM are getting to you either cheers

replacing the slam panel is quite a big job...Iam sure you have to remove the front bumper to get to some of the slam panel bolts on either side of the front wing when I had to do mine (dont forget to support the engine after removing the bolts from the bumper) . You also have to mess about with the bonnet cable release. Have you got a pic of the problem.

Got there in the end...Managed to do it in better lighting and I can see exactly where things needed to go. Earlier attempts in the shade resulted in a snapped 10 amp fuse now replaced. Just be gentle !

Sounds silly...Does anyone else have problems putting the fuse cover back in place or is it just me. Just wondered is there a technique to doing it. I feel like I am placing too much force at time just to get the dam thing line up and feel a fuse or a relay is going to break in the process. I have just given up at the moment :)

This link will take you to the definative Vr6 cooling guide. Which will give you the temp as to when the fans should kick in. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide&highlight=vr6+cooling+guide from the guide it says that the fan should kick in at 92degrees. Cant you leave the engine running and keep an eye on the coolant temp on your dash till it hits 92degrees the fan should then kick in.

Its been a month and a half of hard labour and I am pleased to say the Corrado front end is all reassembled with newly powder coated bits, lots of new bolts, new VW header tank and new blue cap, Coolant change with G++ and power steering fluid change, forked out for a new VW starter motor as I managed to damage the old one. Whilst I had the front end dismantled I also replaced the heater matrix with a new valeo branded one from GSF as preventative maintenance. Turned out the old one I took out was in very good nick see pic of old and new side by side. I was a bit gutted in a way after all that effort. Hardest part of this job is taking out the Glove box and the lower half L shaped air duct behind the centre console see pic Whilst the matrix was out I greased up all the cogs in the heater control and in the heater box itself all the dials operative smoothly now. I managed to replace the heater matrix without taking the whole dash out method – The hardest bit of this job was taking the Glove box out and the bottom half of the air duct behind the centre console. Found some poor alarm fitter worksmanship along the way. Wires were left exposed. I Had to cut and respade the wirings some before and after pics attached. The glove box was a bit of a pain to put back so I hacked off the grid matrix at the base to make it easier. It now just slides in with ease Thats all folks !!!

Just a quick one... The pop rivets that are used on the slam panel to hold the plastic bits in. Can the pop rivet be applied without the slam panel being taken off the car. I have no idea how they are applied ??? The reason I ask is that I have just collected my slam panel and I want to make a start at assembling the slam panel back into the car and realise the bodyshop havent done the pop rivets for me after painting it. If it can be done after assembling the slam panel I will make a start. cheers ---------- Post added at 05:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:54 PM ---------- Its ok.... just seen a demo on youTube on how to apply the pop rivets. Looks like I can assessble the slam panel back to the car and the rivets can be done after.

The underside looks great...I like the silver powder coated rear beam rather than the usual black colour. Will you be taking it to all types VW this week.

Have you got a picture of the condition of the Radiator L brakets and the rubber bush and the distance piece just below it. cheers

Bump

I get the same problem...to overcome this I open my image in Photoshop and resave the image again.

Just wondered if anyoe has a pic to show where this clip goes...I was messing with my heater controls and the central dash area when this part fell off and I have no idea where it goes ? Thanks in advance

I am planning to change the female spade connectors (see pic on first post) that are going into the slots from 1 to 7 due to the bad cuts that are on the wire. Its a toad alarm A101 CL what sort of female amp rating spade would I need ? I have had a look on ebay there are several amp types like 0-15 amp, 25amp etc etc cheers

Hi Alex Just wondered if you have any set made up yet cheers

Cheers Yandards for the detailed response...where would this relay be located. Car is still in bits at the mo will test the windows once everything is re assembled.

Its an old one been there since I purchased the car...was fully working before. Only problem that it has recently is that the door pins wont go down from the remote alarm key fob but the car is fully armed if you try and open it.

Cheers Superchared Just my luck!!! Thats the only hold up on the heater matrix removal. Those mass of cable within the grey protective foam is preventing me from releasing the arm as its wrapped around it.

Hi Guys Does anyone know what this box is for in the pic with numbers stamped on it from 1 all the way to 7. I was doing my heater matrix..(still ongoing) and had noticed some dodgy wiring work that has been done in here. Noticed the exposed wires. Gotta get this sorted at some point...Looks like the person that did it had made an error in cutting the wire. Then realised it was correct after all and just connected the wire back without securing it to the actual spade connector. also on the other Pic. I found an exposed brown wire poking out. Surely thats not right :) Dohhh cheers

+1 on the Cam sensor. I ve just checked on my invoice and it mentioned the Cam sensor and not the crank position sensor I posted earlier.

Could it be the crank position sensor ? Iam no expert...but I ve had power loss on my vr before and this part fixed it.

cheers Jok I will try and slide it off. ---------- Post added at 03:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:36 PM ---------- Ive just had a closer look with better lighting. The steel plate containing the cluster of relays are definately held by 2 plastic nuts. Its very difficult to get a spanner in there to loosen them. Iam just a little worried about sliding the relay off as they are a bit stiff. Anyone else can confirm that they do just slide off.

cheers bud another corrado member here yellowdfp suggested the same...got it out in the end with your advice...Much appreciated...off to do the next bit now!

In the process of replacing my heater matrix without the dashout method...There are several cables within the grey protective foam (highlighted in red in the pic) which is wrapped around the fan arm. How do I go about disconnecting it. Cant seem to see a way of doing it. The cable seems to go into the cluster of relays.

I am attempting this at the moment without taking the whole dash out technique...that glove box is a right B$%^rd to take out any one managed to do it with a certain technique. I cant seem to get it over that metal "barrier" piece thats stoping it from sliding out. -----Got it out in the end woohoo!!! used a large plank of wood and pushed underneath and pulled outward at the same time. also has anyone removed the heater fan unit from its housing before...cant see how to release it cheers

to be fair mine sheared due to wrong torque setting...It has the yellow coating like the original. stamped APU 10.9. Here is a pic for your reference.