Robbo149
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Everything posted by Robbo149
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Yeah, that's why I went for a Powerflow in the first place, for something a bit different. Most dissapointing thing now though, is I can't hear that distinctive VR vvvrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr... when I floor it anymore :cry: Robbo
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Sorry Sanj, you beat me to it ! My Powerflow looks superb with an upswept Boxer style tailpipe which fills all the cutout, it's just a bit too noisy! Robbo
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What's the Magnex like for noise compared to the standard one? Cheers, Robbo
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Call me an old giffer, but I'm starting to think my custom Powerflow zorst is a bit loud, it's a fantastic piece of work & is fine when cruising on the motorway, but when razzing round town (which I do 90% of the time), it's a bit in yer face (or rather ears!). So I'm thinking of ditching it for an off-the-shelf Milltek or Magnex one & would like some opinions on which to get. Cheers guys, Robbo
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Right again Henny :) you C-God! (My fuel gauge packed up too, btw!) I hadn't pushed the multiplug in all the way, it seems it needs a good firm push until it clicks in properly :oops: Cheers again, Robbo
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Hi all, I'm sure you'll be glad to hear that I'm gradually nailing all the little niggly problems with my VR one by one! After replacing most of the cooling system & having half the engine bay multiplug rewired, the cooling system is almost back to normal. The only thing left to do is replace the auxilliary coolant pump which packed up (wiring has been checked - ok). Anyway, I'm probably answering my own question here, but I'd like some second opinions. Whilst driving along the coolant temp gets up to around 90 & sits there (normal), but if I get stuck in traffic etc, it occasionally gets up to 105-110 ish (higher than it used to). Is this simply down to the aux pump not running? or should that not cause significant temp rises? Cheers, Robbo (getting happier by the day!)
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Sorry guys, forgot to add... the error code is definitely a Hall Sender error (on Bosch diagnostic machine)
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Cheers for the replies guys. The original 2.9 cams were swapped over (with sprockets) when I had the recon head fitted, so the trigger wheel (or whatever) should be there as before. I did try to see through the hole using a torch last time I changed the cps, but couldn't see much. Is there any easy way to get at the cam sprockets without having to take the manifold & all the covers off? I'm thinking most likely a wiring problem, I have had a new coil pack on recently, & I've also had a load of electrical problems which were sourced to some of the contacts in the big round multi plug being fooked. Does the cps wiring go through this too? Cheers, Robbo
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Hi all, I've replaced my CPS 3 times now & still get an error code on diagnostic, the car is running as it should with the CPS out (crap!). (I've reset the ECU each time btw) Is there any other way to check the sensor & its wiring to find where the fault lies? Cheers, Robbo
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Story of my life at the mo'! :roll: I keep telling myself everything will work properly one day. Cheers, Robbo
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Yeah, there was some weird green plastic thingy (technical term) which the needle located into. It looked like it had jumped out. Cheers, Robbo
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Hi all, I had my clocks apart at the weekend to fix my temp gauge (which now works, cheers Henny), but now, on the way to work this morning I got no reading on the oil temp, just the 3 dashes! Everything else on the MFA works fine. Could I have done something when I had the clocks out? It was fine last week. Or is it just another 'Christine' type coincidence? Cheers, Robbo
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Henny, I owe you a pint :wink: I now have one mended temp gauge :D . Cheers dude. Robbo
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Cheers Henny, excellent guide, I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. Robbo
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There's bound to be a 'how to' on this subject somewhere, but my searches so far have proved fruitless. I've slowly been sorting various electrical / cooling system problems on my '93 VR & I'm now 99.9% sure my temp guage is bust. I've replaced the sender (twice), had the wiring checked, but it still refuses to move. When my probs started it was shooting straight up to max as soon as I started the engine, then one day it suddenly dropped to the bottom & hasn't moved since! Anyway, enough of the waffle!... is the temp gauge repairable? & how easy is it to remove / replace it? Cheers, Robbo
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Guess so :roll: Robbo
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The sensors on mine were (L to R) - yellow 4 pin, blue 2 pin (ECU), & black 2 pin. Looking at ETKA though, there are 2 types of black sensor - 2 pin like mine or 4 pin for cars with aircon. I wonder if I've got the 4 pin version of the right hand one, & hence the wrong one? Mat, I thought the pump should run all the time, so I guess that's not down to the sensor. Cheers, Robbo
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Ah... I wonder, the yellow sensor is also the one for the gauge AFAIK. If the pump is getting power but not working, it could be a duff sensor. Is it possible the dodgy electrics wrecked the new sensor I put in last week? Thinking about it, the sensor I got was from ECP & it was black, not yellow, but it fitted, so I didn't worry about it... Robbo
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Cheers Phat. They've rewired the multiplug & cleaned up all the contacts, so the wiring side of things is all ok now, so I guess the only 2 possibilities are the sensor or the gauge itself. I don't suppose you know anyone round my neck of the woods (Leeds area) with VAG-COM do you? The place I normally go to only has a generic Bosch system, not sure if it'll go into enough detail. As for the aux pump, I'm sure it used to run all the time with the ignition switched on before everything went tits-up. Cheers, Robbo
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Update on my cooling system probs - I've had my car in with a local auto electrician for 2 days!!! The problem turned out to be down to the big round multi plug at the rhs of the engine. This had water in it & 7 or 8 of the contacts were fooked! They've tidied it all up & the fan's now working as it should, the aux pump is getting power but not working (knackered pump?!), am I right in thinking the aux pump should run all the time? But the temp gauge still isn't working?!! Wiring all seems to be ok, it's a new sender, so what do you guys reckon? broken gauge, or could it be a duff sender? The auto electrician says without wiring diags he's stuck as the sender wiring goes via the ECU. Cheers, Robbo
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Cheers Phat, think I'll replace the housing too. Good turn out last night btw. Robbo
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I think I know the answer to this one but I thought I'd check with you guys. To add to my ongoing cooling problems, I've now noticed that the top rad hose is getting really hot while the bottom one is staying cool! is this a symptom of a knackered thermostat? Cheers, Robbo
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Thanks for the reply Steve, mine's just had an engine rebuild, so it's not gonna be as serious as that. I'm pretty sure my probs are electrical. Best of luck! Robbo
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Stevenmcc - any update on this? as I'm having the same symptoms at the moment. Cheers, Robbo
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That's my only consolation - I bought it cheap, so I shouldn't lose on it.... much. Robbo