Robbo149

Back in the fold - just put a deposit on mint Blackberry VR today :-) Might end up keeping the Karmann Ghia too - bonus! Cheers, Robbo

Hi all, just popped back after a long absence. I used to frequent these parts a few years back when I owned a black '93 VR6 Corrado - The one car I always regretted selling :-( Anyway, after a couple of years with a Porsche 944 S2 & Mk4 Golf R32, I've been running this for the last year & a bit - But have a serious hankering for another 'rado VR, so I'll probably be popping back from time to time, mainly scouring the classifieds! Cheers, Robbo

Nah, not TCS, It's being sold by Facelifts near Swadlincote, the current owner is the guys wife, Marcia. AFAIK they've sold a few Corrados over the years. The story with this one is, they sold it to an elderly gent a few years back & bought it back off him about 6 months ago. Everything seemed in order & straight, the only thing letting it down was the cheapo 17" alloys which were a bit minging. I tried haggling, but the lowest I could get it is £6k. A bit OTT even for a minter with 50 odd k miles & FSH ? Cheers, Robbo

Hi, I used to own a black VR6 a few years back & always regretted selling it. Anyway, I'm on the lookout for another one & went to view this one today. Mega low mileage, FSH, Blackberry with black leathers. Looked really good, nice & straight. Just wondering if anyone knows anything about it? It's been for sale a little while (I think the price is putting people off!), so chances are someone else on here may have been to look at it. Any advice, greatly appreciated. http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/314892.htm Cheers, Robbo

My Powerflow pops a lot too. car's running fine though, so I'm not worried 8) Cheers, Robbo

metman - I just gave mine a quick squirt of the old WD40 and pushed & pulled it in & out repeatedly (this thread really is getting silly isn't it?) this seemed to free it up ok. AFAIK they can be bought as a separate part if it's sticking really bad. You'll need to pull the throttle cable cam out of the way, probably easiest to disconnect the cable. I did mine with the manifold etc off the car. HTH, Robbo

Yeah, the dashpot stops the throttle from snapping shut as dr mat says. It's the little plunger thingy underneath the throttle lever thingy (excuse the terminology). These can be prone to sticking & cause problems with revs rising & falling. Mine was sticking in & causing the revs to drop too fast sometimes. I suppose if its sticking out it could maybe have the opposite effect. Cheers, Robbo

If you're talking top end rebuild I'd recommend the following: Head recon - valve guides & valve stem oil seals. Tappets too, if they're noisy! Remember to replace all gaskets & head bolts etc (VW do a complete head set which includes valve stem seals). Timing chains & tensioners - replace both chains, both tensioners, tensioner bolt & all guide rails (Kev will advise using the later Mk4 Golf tensioner). I'd also replace the cam position sensor trigger wheel (you may regret it later if you don't... I did!). Clutch & crankshaft oil seal while the 'box is off. I'd also replace the thermostat & housing & maybe the crack pipe too. I did mine later, but it would be easier to do it at the same time. It cost me around £500 in parts for that lot, but that included a recon head. HTH, Robbo

Guess it could well be :roll: There's alot to be said for doing stuff yourself. If only I'd had my new found diy confidence 6 months ago. Cheers, Robbo

Can't tell you what a relief it is to finally have the old girl running smoothly again... all ready to sell now :wink: (maybe) The cam sprocket bolt was a bit of a tw@t, it's torqued up to 100nm ! especially whilst trying to keep the cam from turning with the adjustable in the other hand! A 24 inch breaker bar did the job nicely, best £10 I've spent on Ebay :) . Mind you, torquing it back up to 100nm when I'd done was the hardest bit ! 5 hous to replace a £7 bit of plastic... ain't VRs wonderful . Feel like I could tackle anything now... I wish I was doing my head swap & chains again, could have asved myself £400 in labour :roll: ah well, maybe next time! Cheers, Robbo

Just wanted to share with you all my latest mechanical achievements (see earlier posts re my diy inexperience). Spent 5 hours yesterday stripping & rebuilding the top of the engine on my VR in a last attempt to cure my cam sensor probs by replacing the sender wheel. This was a major undertaking for me, so needless to say I'm well chuffed with myself 8) , especially as the new sender wheel seems to have cured the problem :D , car drives so much smoother now (I'll have to get a diag reading to be 100% sure). Mind you, the old sender wheel did fall apart in my hand when I removed the cam sprocket bolt :roll: Total cost of this mamoth task... £7 :roll: (plus 2 skinned knuckles & 1 snapped allen key!). Yesterday was a good day :D :D :D Cheers, Robbo (mechanical genius... not :wink: )

Yep, agree with Kev there, got my rear axle bushes from GSF & the difference was amazing! (original ones were shot though :wink: ) cheers, Robbo

Just my 2p - for additional comparison :wink: After replacing most of my cooling system due to overheating probs (both pumps, thermostat, housing, all sensors, flushing & refilling with new G12+), I now get 'normal driving along' temps of around 90 coolant & 110 - 112 oil, hard driving sometimes gets oil temp up to 114 - 116 (I've never had it higher than 116). When stood in traffic the coolant temp will rise to around 95 - 100 & oil usually says where it is (110ish). HTH, Robbo

That really is true, I thought it was me being daft, but I notice this every day to & from work. :) Cheers, Robbo

Not bad LicklePaulie, but I was looking at buying one with a real smooth mirror finish. I suppose I could have another go myself :roll: Did you polish it in situ, or did you take it off & do it all over? Cheers, Robbo

LicklePaulie - I have had a go at mine but TBH I haven't the time or patience to do it properly. There have been a couple of cheapish ones on Ebay recently, but are probably Golf ones, cheers Dazzy for the info. Robbo

are they all the same?... 2.8 & 2.9 I mean. Are there any differences as there are with cams / throttle bodies etc? Just thinking about getting a polished one is all. Cheers, Robbo

AFAIK there's really no difference performance wise between the 2. I suppose the conversion could be done, but would probably involve other stuff too, such as ECU etc. so probably not worth it IMO. I'm sure there was a thread on here recently obout just this topic. Not sure about the crank sensor, or do you mean the Cam sensor? The dizzy engine has a drive wheel for the distributor instead of the cam sensor. HTH, Robbo

How would standard 205 / 50's be on an 8 x 15 rim ? I'm currently running 205 / 40s on 8 x 17 rims & they fit ok, just a bit hard. Cheers, Robbo

Cheers Kev, Yeah, it was the mechanical timing I was meaning, just thought I'd give it a check while I was in there. I'm getting serious popping on the over run & general sluggishness, but I seem to remember it was like that when I first got it (when it was the actual cam sensor), so I don't know how much of it's down to that. I may also have some fuel filter / fuel pump probs too :roll: ... one thing at a time, eh! How do I find TDC (piston #1, I assume?) at the gearbox end?, is the flywheel marked & visible through the 'hole'? I'm really getting into this diy lark, bought myself a proper set of tools & everything! :wink: before long I'll be wishing I'd tackled my head swap & chains myself :wink: The CPS thing has been a bit of a saga, I've had 3 new sensors, had the wiring checked by a reputable auto electrician & I've also run new pos & neg feeds to the sensor (& tested them). I ran a new neg straight from the battery & the pos from the aux coolant pupm as you suggested Kev. The ECU feed wire has also checked out ok. So I'm left with the trigger wheel (which is definately a plazzy thing attched via the cam sprocket bolt, I can see & feel it through the hole). Having had a quick broddle around in there, there doesn't seem to be any magnetism in it! (the new one I've got is really strong). Cheers, Robbo

Hi all, I'm going to be getting into the 'guts' of my VR soon to replace the cam sensor trigger wheel (as a result of a lengthy process of ellimination :roll: ). I'm feeling a bit daring, as I've now done quite a bit of work on it myself (yes, I am feeling quite pleased with myself), & feel I'm now up to something a bit more adventurous 8) (not to mention saving myself a small fortune :D ). Anyway, while I'm in there I'd like to check the timing, so I'm basically after an idiots guide as to how to do it if anyone can oblige. Cheers, Robbo

I reset my ECU all the time (a side effect of all the work I've been doing on it recently :roll: ) It does seem to drive a lot crisper afterwards, but really needs a good 'mixture' of driving immediately after a reset so the ECU can adapt to the full range of driving conditions. Cheers, Robbo

Did my thermostat recently & as Kev says it's not too bad a job, (I'm a bit of a diy novice btw). You'll need to remove the whole thermostat housing from the engine before you can take it apart to get at the thermostat. There are 3 hex bolts (2 long & 1 short) IIRC, which hold the whole thing on. It's also a good idea to replace all the seals too as the stat housing is a common source of leaks on the VR. HTH, Robbo

Hello peeps, just back from sunny Ibiza & catching up on forum events. Back to my fuel pump query - I noticed the pitch of the whining changed when turning lights etc on (adding load), does this mean it's deffo the pump, or should I still try a new filter first? Cam sensor saga - I've spliced in alternative feeds for power to the cam sensor (tested it too before I connected it back up), still unsure if it's cured, guess I need another diagnostic check. The only thing left is the trigger wheel - oh bum, not looking forward to trying to change that! Cheers, Robbo

Cheers guys, never thought about the filter, guess it's worth changing as it's much cheaper than a new fuel pump! Kev I never bother with additives, just usually run on super U\L. Cheers, Robbo p.s. Kev, any suggestions for where to run a new 12v supply from for my cam sensor test (old post which never got answered, sorry) Cheers again.