dalhalvaig

Thanks Mark - you mean your speedo showed a speed that was too high? Cheers If so, heading to the VW dealers for the part...

Hi Yesterday, I went out to drive the C VR6. Started the engine - cranked and fired OK - then rathern than settling to idle revs just dropped to zero and engine stalled. Tried a few times and it repeated the same, even pressing the throttle to keep the revs up. Went back to it a couple of hours later, same again but the second try it fired up albeit a bit lumpy. Today started OK and drove pretty well OK. Seemed a little uneven, but accel OK and mpg OK. Any ideas? Cheers D

Can anyone tell me what I need to look out for if I get another set of instruments. What are the specifics I need for a VR6? Cheers

Thanks for the feed back. No other symptoms so far...will keep a watch out

Last couple of times when driving the C have noticed that the speedo can suddenly take a mind of its own and start varying the displayed speed by up to 40/50mph. So far I've seen no problem when driving at up to 50 and I think 60 is pretty consistent, but driving at 70 the needle sometimes will show 70, but other times swing about from 70 to usually about 85, but once up to 120. Any ideas? Cheers

Cheers - Halfords will get visited

Mine is missing too, I'm not too bothered about the originality, but now that you mention squishy armrests, maybe I should get one. TBH I don't really want a 1995 original as most things in it will be well past the sell-by anyway. Can someone post the dimensions of the original box, then I'll see if I can get one with new stuff in it. Cheers PS...agree, that was low

18th is good for me, my daughter's got a party on the 17th.

Just been on here and PH. Maybe I shouldn't have said they are looking cheap, seem to be a lot of £5kish cars now

Count me in, I'm in Glasgow, but away for the middle fortnight of October

Twas late...

I think that is part of the thing with these cars. We are very fortunate in having something which has such great performance for so small outlay to purchase, unfortunately the maintenance costs are high. The running (fuel and tyres) costs compared to a Scooby and possibly better. I say just get out and use them, and don't get too hung up about preserving them. Each to his or her own, some will want to turn their cars into better than factory concourse (is that the right spelling - doesn't look right?) shrines, some modern day interpretations and some rats and on and on. I got mine in January and have done 4.5k so will probably hit about 9k in a year. By memory, I think the three previous MOTs show it did less than 3k in the 3 years to Jan 2011. That's probably why one of the actuators in the ABS was jammed and cost me £900 in total to be refurbished. Take out servicing, MOTs, Tax, consumables (pads, tyres, exhausts, batteries) and mine has cost about £4.2k, but hopefully the big spend is out of the way. But if I were to sell it today or in 3 or 5 years time, I'd probably get about the same for it, unlike if I'd spent £4.2K on a standard Euro box that in 5 years would be 10+ years old and worth whobuysanycarfornexttonothing.com so in 5 years time I'll probably be up a grand or two and will have had a load of fun along the way. When I was writing this it made me think - what Golf could I get for £5k. just spotted a Gold 4motion for £1895 and started to have some very bad thoughts http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201133410322707/sort/locasc/usedcars/price-to/2000/engine-size-cars/2-6l_to_2-9l/model/golf/make/volkswagen/page/2/postcode/g613lg/radius/1501?logcode=p Just imagine, all the bits you need for a 4WD conversion for less than 2 grand, plus what you could make selling the bits on. Actually if you converted your C VR6 into a C 4motion, could you tturn the Golf 4motion donor into a Golf VR6? Must be late I'm rambling and fantasizing

Oh I'm there...and the acceleration...and the sound...and the handling

Seems to be loads of sub £2000 VR6s on the market...wish I was looking now - OK, to know I obviously am looking, but I mean planning to buy. And then at the other end quite a few at £5k+ What's happening to the market. See PH below http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/list.asp?g=1&s=177&filter=&o=&pc=&min=&max=&txt=&px=&p=1&pagesize=15&xsl=list&y1=&y2=&d=0&dist=&nodays=0 Either way I'm happy with what I've got, just looks like a good time to get in D

You're right, it obviously depends on the budget or if it's money no object. I guess where my question came from is, given the above options which is the best or optimal in terms of Cost vs Effort to do (how easy) vs Performance or Effectiveness? Not that I have the money, but let's say a budget of £10k That said we now have an R32 Twin T Quattro vs R36 Turbo 4wd - must be a reason for choosing one or the other D

So if you had a VR6 would you...? a) Fit OBD2 b) Fit Schrick inlet and cams etc c) Fit 2.8 24V d) Fit R32 e) Fit R36 f) Fit a diesel Oh and what gearbox would you use? and would it be 2wd or 4wd?

"Spock! Analysis!" "Well Captain. Whatever the earthling is using to fuel his intergalatic VR6, it is getting more expensive" "Scotty, get to Tesco's and buy some Robinsons Squash and get 5p off a litre" Anyway...I'm getting an average of 29.7mpg, £0.20/mile after 4423 miles since January Currently running at about 30-32 per fill compare to 25mpg back in February

I know this thread started with...even Admiral. I think you're running 2 cars, the Accord and the VR6. Have you tried their multicar policy? I'm paying £490 for the my Touran 2.0TDI and C VR6. Admittedly I have full no claims, but that includes extras such as free hire car in case of accidents, legal etc. Even when I added the second car, they gave me full no claims on both, even without having established this separately to the first car. It's always worth talking to these people rather than just accepting their on-line quote, or renewal quote. Example. I got my buildings renewal from Aviva - £375. Because I had been on line the previous year on go compare or something, I got a quote from another company as they still had my details - £295. So.. Phone Aviva - will you match - let me talk to manager - on hold - would you accept £275 plus £20 of High Street vouchers - Oh go on then, i'll stay Always worth a pop. D

I too am a fuel consumption anorak. There I said it. Similar method to boost monkey, but I use the odometer reading rather than trip. I plug it all into a spreadsheet. It give me graphs and everything. I also note the MPG from the MPG2 setting on the MFA, and reset that when I fill up - after writing down the number. I've been amazed how close the MFA MPG2 and the calculation are - within 0.5mpg a lot of the time. On my Touran, the MFA is between 5 and 10MPG optimistic. If anyone wants the spreadsheet then PM me D

So how does a Newbie become a Regular? ---------- Post added at 11:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 PM ---------- Oooops! That did it...

Hi, I put an entry in The "what I did to my Corrado today" thread... to say that I'd tried to seal a leak at the top right of the windscreen. Well, it didn't work. But I noticed that Sideways Steve was saying he'd done similar so asked the question. Rather than fill up The "what I did to my Corrado today" thread...we ended up PMing to figure out what to do. In the interests of community, and any additional comments, here is how it went... Me - Bit of black silicon sealant in the gaps at the top of the windscreen. Hopefully the rain won't get in any more... Sideways Steve - Sunday: 1 - Fixed leaking windscreen Me - What was your windscreen leak? I tried at the weekend to do the same...Bit of black silicon sealant in the gaps at the top of the windscreen. Hopefully the rain won't get in any more... but still leaking at top left hand of screen. SS - Hi bud, yup mine was the top left too. Basically someone had replaced the windscreen in the past and has damaged the actual windscreen seal. Someone else had then pumped the groove full of black silicon to try and fix it but all that done was make the finishing trim keep popping out. I scraped out the old silicon and could see the dodgy bit of seal. Silicon is too thick to solve the issue so I used some stuff I get from work designed for sealing joints called Heldite. When you brush it in its like thick paint and is in a liquid form, i concentrated on just getting it into teh area where I could see the damaged part of the seal and let it soak in for 5 minutes before then refitting the finishing strip. end result is no more leaks and my finishing strip sits flush like it should The Heldite is brilliant as with it being liquid it actually leaks into the gaps like the water would do but as its quite thick it gets stuck and effectively plugs the holes then sets Me - Thanks for that. Sorry didn't get back sooner, been on household chores so no Corrado times for the last couple of days. I think the leak is worse now that I've Siliconed it. The run in to work this morning proved that. I'm going to start by putting gaffer tape over the place I think is leaking to see if that solves it - then I'll at least have found where it's getting in. Sounds similar to yours though. SS - The silicon will make it worse as why happens is it actually blocks the drainage route round the screen and effectively creates a dam trapping the water and it seeps through the actual leak. The only way the gaffer tape will help is if you go the full way along the top of the screen as the Trim that clips in is not actually water tight and water can get under it at any point.

What was your windscreen leak? I tried at the weekend to do the same...Bit of black silicon sealant in the gaps at the top of th windscreen. Hopefully the rain won't get in any more... but still leaking at top left hand of screen. Also what are Mk3 stalks like? - Is that the same as later Corrado? And finally - stopped the exhaust knocking against the rear bumper, by sticking a tyre valve into the hanger rubber... cheers to the guy at McConechy's in Bearsden...

Bit of black silicon sealant in the gaps at the top of th windscreen. Hopefully the rain won't get in any more...

Sorted the rattle in the sunroof that was bugging me. Just a little bit of handle bar tape did the job. Now I can hear the other rattles properly.

Your 70 deg issue could also be caused by a duff yellow temp sender. It's two senders in one unit. Pins 1 & 4 do the fans and booster pump and Pins 2 & 3 do the dash gauge. Would the gauge still show higher temps? Was just out in the car just now and it didn't show over 70. Then in traffic went up to 90 plus as the fans went on. So the gauge is getting a signal. Would the gauge get a signal if the yellow sender was duff? Cheers