Stonejag

Changed my mind, I'll have the windows :) May I pick them up tomorrow?

Well, the pedal box is totally different and there's nowhere obvious to fit the throttle control element...the top of the RHD pedal is welded directly to the cross-bar that rotates and pulls on the throttle cable to the left of where the clutch pedal goes. I may be able to fit it upside-down on the far left (so it pulls on the cable directly) but without a test-fit I can't work out whether it would intrude into the footwell. Perhaps this is why the second system was developed, with an extra cable pulling on the throttle body? Still very interested in seeing pics of any RHD Corrados with cruise control :) Stone

My C was pulling to the left a little so I thought I'd get the tracking re-checked. It was last done in the first week of September after fitting two new front tyres (needed as the camber was woefully out at -4º each side) so I figured the odd winter pothole had disturbed it. Only the front-right side was out - the left was fine - so I got it adjusted from -2.6º back to -1.5º, and started driving home. About ten minutes back it started pulling left again so I turned around and went straight back - when it got put back on the ramps it was at -3.3º! They did reuse the nyloc nuts (which I now plan to replace) but it still really shouldn't have slipped that far in the ten minutes I was driving it so I'm wondering if there's a deeper problem. The wishbones are apparently straight but there's a been fair amount of oil around from when I cracked the sump, so the alignment guy suggested it may have started to slowly rot the bushes out... Sound reasonable? I've no problem swapping wishbones for some polybushed ones if that'll make it happier! If I do, what else should I swap at the same time - track rod ends, ball joints? There's a fair amount of vibration on braking and it's done ~95k with what I assume are all factory items so it probably wants addressing. Thanks in advance :) Stone

That's the one I found - perfect fit. Much better to have one that's actually usable in an emergency rather than 20 years out of date :lol: Stone

Started getting it all laid out so I know what's what. Here's a few pics! Everything out of the box: Vacuum actuator on top of the pedal - the light grey arm pulls on the very top of the pedal, above the clip where the balance weight goes. The actuator arm clips onto a ball-shaped protrusion at the top of the pedal - not sure if my pedal has this or I'll need to add it. I could swap the pedal over, but it's a load of work just to find out if this one will fit, so it'll probably be easier to manufacture something to fit into the pedal if I need to... The (blue) brake ventilation valve goes just behind the brake light switch on the same bracket. It has a vacuum line T-ed off the feed to the actuator so the vacuum is released when you press the pedal, and an electrical switch to tell the ECU to shut down. There's an identical switch on the clutch pedal if you have a manual, in which case the vacuum feed has a double-T so that either brake or clutch can let the vacuum escape. The loom's different as well, as this auto one hasn't got an extra plug for the clutch switch. The ECU, with its bracket. Not sure but I think the cruise control module / immobiliser may be intended to go on this bracket too? Mine have all been messed about with and are dangling free, so it gives a convenient place to put them all anyway! Vacuum pump with its bracket. Not sure where I'm going to put this yet - probably inside the engine bay rather than its stock (stupid) location behind the passenger-side wheel arch liner. Yes, really! One vacuum feed and a three-pin connection to the ECU. The stalk - had to take this apart earlier to repair the sleeving over the cable as it had torn. Useful tips: the connector is in two parts which unclip so you can get at the pins (don't pull them out of the connector with pliers after releasing the locking tab, it won't work properly!). Release the front cover by putting the indicator switch in the middle position and undoing the single Torx screw on the left and the three plastic clips, then you can wrestle with the lever until it comes free. When reassembling make sure you get everything back as it was - the lever contacts a low-friction plastic piece, if you have it touching the spring you've got it in the wrong order. To get the cover back on, ensure the sprung white plastic piece is in its groove first, seat the left-hand side by wiggling the lever slightly, then push the sprung white bit to the outside to get the right side on. Push the clips home and put the Torx screw back. Took a good twenty minutes to work that out! Some mystery connectors on the part of the loom near the fusebox. Blue/white is speed signal, then I assume brown is ground. The other two are black with red stripe (green plug) and black with yellow stripe (white plug) - anyone know where these plug in? Is the back of the fusebox colour-coded? Not taken it off yet... More mystery connectors at the vacuum pump end of the loom - a 4-pin red one and a pair of two-pin black ones, one large and one small. I think the red one may be a test connector but not sure... Think I've answered my own question with the accelerator linkage - even with the undertrays off I couldn't quite see the top of the pedal so I must have to take off the fusebox to get at the hole the actuator mounts to. The mounting bracket is the same part number as a Corrado one (357 721 819) so it should bolt straight on, just one bolt and a nyloc nut. I've lost the link now but I did find a German website with instructions for testing everything outside the car, so when I've found it again I'll have a play with that :) Stone

Very impressed by how saturated the colour is over a black base. Look lovely, don't think they'd suit blackberry though...in a white car they'd really look the business! Good luck with them :)

Nope, just has to show amber from the side and flash when the front and back ones do. You're better off with LED bulbs if you use tinted or clear lenses, as the amber coating flakes off incandescent bulbs with time and then you fail your MOT... These are still cheaply available from the States, if you can find someone who won't just take your money and bugger off like the last two have with me :brickwall: It looks much better if you use the recess from a US bumper rather than cutting your own hole in a UK one, it's a complex shape and they sit a bit proud otherwise. Stone

You're right; I forgot to mention there are two completely contradictory diagrams in ETKA! This one is much closer to the bits I have: The vacuum actuator attaches to the gas pedal somehow - looks like the same place the balance weight bolts onto the pedal but it's so hard to see what's going on behind the fusebox that I don't really know what's going on. Need to clean the stalk up and get the cracked bits swapped over first, then I'll ;ay it all out on the floor and have a play with a 12V supply :) Stone

Hi all, Just taken delivery of a huge pile of lucky-dip cruise control parts from an auction on German eBay. Has anybody got this fitted to their RHD Corrado at the moment? If not it looks like I'll be the guinea pig documenting as he goes along...:lol: Pretty sure I've got all the bits I'll need, it's just: Vacuum pump + harness Complete pedal box with vacuum throttle actuator, bracket and combo brake switch All the vacuum hoses Indicator + cruise stalk for late interior ECU and wiring harness All the parts are from a B3 Passat VR6 auto. The ECU is part number 1H0 907 305 but the Corrado equivalent is 535 907 305 so I'm hoping it's the same. My main question is in how the vacuum actuator (VW call it a 'throttle control element') attaches to the gas pedal. It's very straightforward on LHD cars, which is what's shown in ETKA / Vagcat and on my new pedal box - the throttle cable attaches directly to the pedal, and the actuator attaches just behind the pivot so that when vacuum sucks the arm into the actuator body the pedal is depressed. Unfortunately the pedal box is totally different for RHD cars as we have the weird horizontal bar attached to the gas pedal which then moves an arm to the left of the clutch pedal which pulls the throttle cable. It's really unclear to me from this diagram: It's allegedly the same bracket and actuator for both types, it's just not very obvious at first glance :) Hopefully someone has done this before and can snap me a quick pic so I can visualise it better. After that it's supposed to be fairly smooth sailing 8) Thanks in advance, Stone

I've just cleared some space in my garage if you want to store it for a bit? ;)

You could always go for a fixed column... Good luck finding the surround for it though! :grin:

Here you go. :) If there was something specific you wanted to see I can try and make the pictures a bit better, was just using my phone camera!

I only have an intact driver's fog, but I've got a pair of good indicators if you go with clumpy's fogs... Stone

They did ours within a week of getting the sample set... Yes, but not at the group discount price :) Stone

I really like these ones, but I don't know what they are... Stone

The front one broke in my accident and haven't got around to painting the back one orange yet ;) Stone

The top radiator flange is available from VW Classic Parts, around £10 if memory serves. Part number: 535 121 647 Stone

Same here except it's in my front room ;) I'm at M1 J9. Stone

Sure, won't be able to until tomorrow though.

That was me :) Probably wasn't going too quickly as I've been having oil temperature problems...

You can nudge them around manually if you're gentle. Just press gently on the top or sides of the mirror glass.

Something similar happened to me when the door handle was changed - the old locking cable has to be clipped back into place properly, otherwise the window catches it and mangles the wires together. Mine would randomly lock as I drove around, confusing! Doublecheck the leftover cable that used to plug into the door handle cable, just in case. Stone

Mine were done at Max Powder in Hemel Hempstead: http://maxpowder.co.uk/ . They look a bit worse for wear now I've kerbed them a few times but the bits I haven't damaged still look awesome. The surface finish is very smooth so it cleans up nicely with a bit of soapy water. Excellent results for the price! Stone

A bit further away from the original styling but I really like dogger's custom fog light intakes :D Might try and mock up something similar for mine, maybe a little closer to the styling of the grille slats with some LEDs for the indicator... Stone

If you have a cone filter fitted then make sure you've got some sort of bracket to hold it in place. The rubber inlet elbow is a little stiffer than the plastic one but the weight of an unsupported cone filter on mine caused the MAF wires to fail through metal fatigue from the constant movement. Keep an eye on it! Stone