PhatVR6

Ho Ho Ho! £256!!! nly £2 more than the 8v to stay TPFT!!!!!! with all mods declared, and my ban too! :mrgreen: :lol: Or £850 (£600 more) to go FC. :mad: I think I'll be staying on third party for the time being......

exactly.....(although it's not the same engine, but it's still another 1994 2.9 VR6) HIC won't even answer the phone, been on hold for 17 minutes......

If you have to go in there to do your chains or clutch, then do the flywheel. if not, then it's not woth the hassle of taking the box off JUST to do the flywheel.

and they wanted £50 more to transfer the policy to an 8v corrado 6 months into the policy!!! Now I've put eveything that was in the golf into the corrado shell...........which will be mentioned when they come up with a ridiculous figure. do you think about £7000 is an accurate value?

I'm with HIC. I've used Greenlight before, but they were a pain in the arse with mods, they wanted to know what tyres and brake fluid I was using and sh1t like that. Brentacre were excellent, but I went with HIC last year because the quote they did was unbeatable (£236 for a mk2 VR6!)

My mate had a 30 day ban on his and his insurance only went up £40

Just had my renewal notice through. £254 TPFT! not bad eh! Shame I've now got to tell them about the VR6 conversion and the 42 day ban due to the SP50......... How much do you reckon it'll cost me? 1994 corrado 8v, converted to a VR6. about 215BHP, 6speed, etc etc. I put the value at about £7000 (which means I'll have to go for fully comp) 5 year NCD 28 years old YO41 postcode. I'm guessing about £700??

I took my mate out in my car last night. Now bearing in mind this guy drives a 230BHP 8v turbo mk2 golf, and he's a loony on the road and drives bllody fast everywhere. He said "That's the first time I've actually been scared in a car for along time" :mrgreen:

rieger grille all the way. I hate those spoilers that go up in the middle over the grille. and Bose Blick does not suit a corrado AT ALL.

never mind the crash damge, I don't think I'v ever seen a corrado with such bad paintwork!! Show pics of that to anyone you see washing their car with washing up liquid......

and? is there a problem with that? sure, the revs drop between gears if you'r changing slowly. but when yu're 'on in' it's a good thing. you soon get used to it.

I've got a Fidanza one in mine from helix Autosport. Cheaper if you buy direct fromt he US though. it's 6lb (stock is 18lb) which I thought might be a bit too light, but it's not. the car sometimes stalls when slowing to a standstill if I dip the clutch too early, but other than that they are fantasic, the car revs like a fireblade! keep your 2.9 cams.

Which bushes did you use? I've always stuck with Powerflex and never had any problems like that at all. Bug pack (Prothane) ones are pretty hard though. My mates got them on his and it just never seemed as bearable as my old mk2.

BS as per usual. I can count on one hand the amount of VW's I've seen running sperical bearing TAS top mounts. They don't ride any worse than rubber mounts. Poly bushes don't transfer any more vibration either. I can't feel it anyway. Then again, I don't go driving over gravel, kerbs, and fields so I wouldn't know. They don't seem to grumble at the speedhumps in york. I can feel slight vibration through the vibratechnics mounts, but it's barley noticeable. Just remember, where ever you add comfort, you take away feel and response. Decide for yourself what you want from the car before you buy.

TAS0624G mounts. Standard VR6 ARB's Powerflex bushes Weichers lower strut brace Eibach upper strut brace. H&R suspension on the front, Koni's on the back (not coilovers).

I'm running increased castor. So the more I turn the wheel, the more camber I get. So the static camber, and straight line performance isn't affected by having to run lots of camber (i.e. like setting it at 2 degrees which would really affect a standing start) but as soon as I turn in, the camber is there and increases the more I turn the wheel. So when you barrel into a turn, the tyre contact are is much flatter to the road, rather that rolling onto the outside edge. The only downside being that is you're going slowly and using lot's of lock (like in a car park for instance) youget sh1t loads of tyre squel as there is no weight transfer tolting the car over on the tyre and it's only running on it's inside edge. But seeing as I drive hard a lot more often than I go to ASDA I can live with that. Also, you have to be gentle with the steering input when you're driving at very high speeds, as the steering can be a little too responsive unless your'e used to it. The turn in is quite something, and I can't get the front end to wash out at all. In fact, I'm looking to find a bit more grip at the rear at the moment as it's a little tail happy now that the front end bites in so well. I just have to remember not to be so agressive with the stereing.

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I have eccentric top mounts for that.

And don't waste your money on big brakes if you're never going to use it on the track, waste of money.

Why pump the tyres up more? that'll just encourage it to slide more..... fine if you're doing autotesting and stunts, but not for on track surely?

take the spare out when you get there. and it goes without saying that you should have breakdown cover...........

remove the rear seat, spare wheel, tool kit and passenger seat. Take along as many tools as you can, and a trolley jack, and some spare wheels if you've got them (don't wear out your road tyres then expect to drive home). A set of brake pads is also handy to carry with you. Carry some oil and water too.

I does nothing for me at all I'm afraid............ :roll:

yep, normal, but the f*cker MOT tester still failed my derby for it....tw4t.....

funninly enough, no it doesn't. but it never has done since I fitted the steeering wheel as there is nothing to earth the button to. but the fog lamps still worked during that time. Fogs haven't worked since I did the VR6 swap, and that's when the ABS light came on too.