PhatVR6

My vr6 gets up to 116 too. usually sits around 106 on a 80mpoh cruise. sounds a bit high for an engine running an oil cooler though.

Mine ws stalling becasue I'd backed off the throttle damper. the revs were dropping so fast when I shut off the throttle that the ISV didn't have time to kick in. With the dampers et right it should just catch the throttle for a split second and shut the butterfly slowly so the ISV has time to take over the idling. If your fuel pump rns constantly there is a problem. the ecu controls the fuel pump. but I've seen people bodge conversions and wire them so they run with the ignition. check round the back of the fuseboard ofr a yellow and blue wire, and a yellow and green wire and a big yellow connector joinng the 2. make sure nothing looks out of place.

Well, I too would be surprised if the timing was out. I've done 5 VR6 chain jobs, I know how to time them up. I checked this one 4 times. primed the tensioner up and bled it thoroughly too. I've even got the proper VAG cam timing tool too. Hell, I could write a book on how to time the vr6 up. The onlt thing I can see throwing the timing out would be the mk4 head gasket. I've got another MAF, so I'll try that once I can get this fecking Derby started and out of the way. As always, I'll keep you posted. If the MAF doesn't sort it, I'll check the timing when I'm putting the schrick on.

look for a thread I started a few months back asking VR6 owners how their engine sit.

Yeah, we only came over really early on saturday morning to see Mike abot the Schrick which my mate was buying off him, but I couldn't see anyone near any of the cars! I meant to come back later in the day but just never got round to it as I spent most of the day being rang up and told to "come and have a look at this" by all my mates.... I'll catch up with you all at another show.

Mines standard :(

What aload of sh1t!! the clutch isn't even in the fecking engine. The crank sensor has a magnet in it. if it's picking up filing, then they are coimg out of your engine somewhere and floating around in your oil, which is NOT a good sign at all. it sounds to me like you timing has jumped a fe teeth out because you didn't change the upper tensioner. I'm afraid you'll have to take the head off and have a look at what damage has been caused.

Change all the pressure switches, they are only a couple of quid.

I've got that rail too, but they are poop for driveshafts, and the bit holder is too big and the CV boot gets i the way. buy a boxed set with the long ones in it, they are much better.

As Far As I Know You shouldn't suffer from oil surge. check your oil level before yo go booting it again. if it's OK, then take those slicks off! :wink:

they are NOT torx bits, they are spline drive.

number 8 spline bit. it fits the driveshafts and the plug lead plastic thingy's on the vr6.

I did prime it and bleed it, 3 times. I can't see it being that, but I'm not ruling it out without checking it. My mat had his head done under warranty off the garage he bought his Vr off and they got it a tooth out too. It took him ages to work out it was that which was causing him trouble. I'll try the MAF, but in all honesty, the cam timing being out produces all the symptoms I have, and it'd explain the lumpiness and the sounding like a WRX, the bad mpg, the weird ignition timing readings, and the loss of power. they don't have woodruff keys in the camshafts, the have a slot, and the key is part of the cam sprocket (which are both brand new on mine, as are the chains and tensioner.)

Just been chatting to Vince at Stealth. He mentioned the MAF, so that is the first port of call. But what he did say, which interested me as I've heard it before, was that sometimes, when a freshly built up VR6 is started up for the first time, because there is no oil pressure, the rear cam jumps a tooth, which knocks out the timing and confuses the ECU (as the cam position sensor trigger is on the rear cam). Now this would account for the retarded timing reading we got off the VAG-COM. So I'll try the maf, try a different ECU, and if neither works, then the manifold is coming off and i'l checking the timing. I checked it 4 times before I put the cam cover back on.....I'll be p1ssed if it's moved... :mad:

Nice work, it looked stunning at inters.

A/F gaug isn't wired in yet, but that's another thing i need to do! and it's not my driving. even if I reset the MFA whislt doing a steady 60mph it only says 27mpg and drops to 23 if I so much as look at the accelerator. it's p1ssing me off now, i just has no go in it at all, I bet it's a about 60BHP, if that. I takes ages to do 100, and it'll only do 120flat out, that's no good. I'll give it a check over tonight. And it top it all off, the missus car has packed in, and her rabbit died this morning too..... :roll: :cry: :|

yeah, sounds like you drive like a fag to me kev :lol: :wink:

Tailpipes are about £20. Cut it off yourself to half the labour bill. Then just pay them to weld it on.

I can get nearly 60 litres in my tank. It's guzzling it. I used half a tank last night to do 120 miles.

My mate ran the VAG-COM on it again last night. he said the timing is very retarded. My downpipe is blowing, so it could be drawing in air ahead of the lambda, and messing up it's readings. I got 17mpg last night......and CoxyLaad had a drive of it and said it felt slower than his standard VR6!!! so that's 3 of us who think it's well down on power. It's still an 8v exhaust too, which won't be helping matters.... I'll fix the exhaust ,then try the MAF. if that doesn't solve it, I'll try another ECU.

I wanted to get my car on the club stand on the sunday, but I 'm not a member, and I didn't know who to ask!

Some stunning corrado's about, but also some damn ugly ones too. some of the mingingest bumpest and grille setups were on the corrado, shame... Nice to see so many corrado's about with dished wheels wider on the back than the front, it really suits the shape of the car.

unbolt and unplug everything that's topping the engine from coming out, then take it out. generaly, that's. bumper front panel rad heater hoses fuel lines wiring driveshafts engine mounts downpipe. err, and that's about it really!

yep, eezi bleeds don't work on the clutch for some reason, but you can bleed it in a matter of minutes if you have someone pressing the pedal.

what about bleeding it too......or did you just not bother with that?