PhatVR6

neither do i. my night vision is sh1t so I avoid it wherever possible.

LOL! I got a coil pack for £20 and a fuel pump for free! an labour is of course free too. £500....dear oh dear.....

Do I need to point out that 1/4 mile drag racing is done from a standstill?

ah, wheelspin, so it's not quick then....

There's a sytem calles Alterpower, or somethinglike that which the touring car teams used. that basically does this job. It's got to be worth it, Grant Motorsport swears by the electric power steering pumps.

well, it could be a +5BHP warning light instead then!

come on then, let's have a laugh, how much did they charge you?

hmm, not usre if the light would com on or not, I guess it would. it's on the same circuit though, so it may be turned off too? not sure on that one really.

the gaskets are paper, made by Elring. My mate lives near an Elring factory, so we will approach them about making replacements, again out of paper.

What does the 311bhp storm run on the 1/4 mile?

Those who know me know I'm not as half as bad as I come across on here. Just remember, I post from work, so speed is of the essence, I don't have time to wrtoe an essay, so I just get straight tot he point. COpy by all means, you know it's proven. See you soon, will sort out that gear linkage on the jetta shortly too.

Mines in bits, for polishing. Does anyone want to see what it's like inside? Also, I will be making up templates for new gaskets soon, which I will then be making and supplying, along with polished stainless steel bolt sets. I also have a list of part numbers for the individual compents too if anyone is missing any of them? I'll update this post as and when I get the info onto the site rather than dragging it along, so it should make a good Schrick VGI FAQ. If you have any questions about the VGI, then raise then, and I'll post them up. I'm asking the mods to keep this post a sticky and tidy it up as an when it gets useful. UPDATE: sorry for the delay guys. I took some pics last night before I re-assembled it. I'm now able to offer gasket sets (home made, but they fit better than the schrick ones! and polished bolt sets. Here's how it works. Article based on the original VWMS Pierburg VSR, but the theory and operation is the same as the Schrick. To produce an acceptable product, tuners must nowadays pay close attention to what they are doing. Top-end performance is no longer the only requirement. Potential clients are also seeking wider power bands and high drivability standards. A synergy of utility and enjoyment of driving. [Americans hear "Fahrvergnuegen."] Only those tuners who achieve those goals are highly regarded. Limited by the transverse mounting of the engine, there isn't much room for generous inlet manifolding. In order to achieve a good compromise between maximum power output, and adequate torque in day to day use, the inlet manifold runs across the top of the head. This has circumvented the shortage of space and allowed the use of an oscillating-flow tuned inlet manifold. Each cylinder has its own inlet tract that is tuned to such a length as to ensure positive inlet pressure. As engine output is proportional to the airflow, this scheme means that the VR6 doesn't have to be ashamed in the face of competitors. The 2.8 litre produces 174 PS [ DIN hp] and a maximum torque of 240 Nm at 4200 RPM, and the 2.9 litre engine in the Corrado achieves 245 Nm at the same engine speed. But this achievement wasn't enough to satisfy the Wolfsburg developers. To achieve even more torque, lower down in the rev range, the 6 cylinders were to breathe even more freely. The idea of the variable inlet manifold [ german "variables Saugrohr" ] was born and developed in parallel with the now standard version, with assistance from the Pierburg GmbH in Neuss, a company which has a high reputation with things relating to mixture control. The VSR [ abbreviated from the german ] system did not go into, falling victim to the red pens of accountants shortly before the VR6 started production. That this piece of motor technology was not condemned to the depths of the Wolfsburg catacombs, is thanks to the interests of Volkswagen Motorsport, based in Hannover. This VW company took the VSR and now offers it as an after- market conversion kit for 2888 Marks. The kit may be fitted to all VR6s with 2.8 and 2.9 litre engines. Even though the VSR achieves similar aims to those of the switching inlet manifold of the 2.8 litre V6s from Audi, the operating principle is different. In the Audi engine, a long, narrow inlet tract achieves high torque at low revs; 245 Nm at 3000 RPM. The maximum power is achieved using a short, wide inlet tract, producing 174 PS at 5500 RPM. For the engine to be fed through the appropriate channels, depending on engine speed, inlet manifolds are switched using six individual, vacuum operated flaps at 4000 RPM. In both stages, the technology is based purely on tuned oscillating-flow inlet manifolds, with the necessary switching. The VSR in contrast, two diverse technologies are applied. It is designed so that at low engine speeds, resonance is used to improve cylinder charging efficiency -- at higher RPM, oscillation- tuned, individual, broad tracts are used. Switching from one to the other is achived by a single flap, also vaccuum operated at 4000 RPM. The tuned inlet tract operates by the low pressure caused between the throttle valve and the inlet valve, by the suction of the descending piston, Through inertia of the air in the tract, the airflow tends to keep moving towards the inlet, even after it's closed, causing a slight over-pressure when the inlet valve next opens. This ensures high charge efficiency even during early stages of the induction stroke. Of course, further during the same stroke, inlet pressure falls followed by a high pressure but not before the inlet valve closes. In order to achieve optimal control of the oscillation and reflection of the column of air in the inlet tract, it needs to be closely coordinated with valve timing, but this is not possible due to variation in engine speed. Even at mid-range-rpm, the valve opening and the are out of synch. The second pressure wave arrives much too early before the inlet valve closes and a backflow reduces fill efficiency. Now to achieve high torque under these conditions, resonance-fill is utilised. This is done by closing the connection flap between a small resonance chamber which is immediately before short inlet tracts above the inlet valves. This transforms the 6 cylinder ending into effectively two 3 cylinder engines with uniform firing times, and which do not have overlapping inlet strokes. Resonance pulses of up to 0.4 bar [approx 6 psi] above atmospheric are achieved, leading to remarkable fill efficiency and torque increases. Even though fitting the VSR requires not great skills, it should be undertaken by a professional with the right tools. For example, fitting the new EPROM and the new control harness requires dexterity and special tools. The new chip doesn't alter the previously-programmed behaviour of the engine management, it only adds an additional control output for the electrically- controlled, vacuum operated flap. The kit includes instructions as to complete installion, including connections to the vaccum circuit and electrical connections. [ photos of chip in engine maganement unit, VSR inlet manifold being fitted, and side-by-side VSR with original manifold. ] Further engine modifications are not required, so one is permitted to anticipate the VSR transformation. A marked improvement in torque at mid-range is advertised with 255 Nm available at 3600 RPM on the 2.8 litre engine. This corresponds to an 11% increase at that engine speed. In the 2.9 litre incarnation, 260 Nm is available, providing more performance in the most-used rev range. There is no promise of more power in the higher RPM range. To illustrate the performance improvement in a VSR Golf, one doesn't need any test equipment! Almost right from the start, at below 3000 RPM, a new urge is sensed. Up to 4000 RPM the engine provides markedly better acceleration, yet above, the previously expected manners appear because the torque curve corresponds to that of the standard engine. Even more! After the impetuous acceleration, the switchover feels almost reserved. The steeply increasing torque curve up to 3600 RPM also shows a rapid fall back to the norm between 3600 and 4000 RPM. The torque improvement is an excellent fit to the Golf VR6. In fourth gear, the torque boost corresponds to 90 to 120 kmh, in fifth to 110 to 150 kmh. This turns the Golf into a sprinter, that none of the near-200 PS professionally tuned chariots comes near. Testign showed that acceleration from 90 to 120 kmh in fourth gear only took 5.4 seconds. The standard VR6 Golf took 6.1 seconds and a near-200 PS Oettinger VR6 Golf taking 6.4 seconds, and a Wendland special taking 6.2 seconds. No wonder because their maximum torque happens at much higher RPM. Unremarkably, the VSR trick didn't improve peak acceleration or top speed, both of these being exclusively in the higher rev range. The VR6 opens up a new field for Volkswagen Motorsport tuning. This is appropriate when one expects high torque for comfortable and sporty driving. It's even more attractive because testing showed reduced fuel consumption by half a litre [ per 100 km ]. On the other hand, the VSR offers professional tuners an innovative platform for development - as some of them have already indicated. ---------------- [End extract] It's worth pointing out that the VGI DOES actually offer high end gains too, as it out flows the stick manifold, has tuned length runners (unlike the VSR) and works great in conjunction with 268 cams.

p1ss easy. all you need to do is hook up a system that breaks the 12v blue wire tot he alternator when you hit WOT. job sorted.

That doesn't sound like you Steve :-P :lol: don't crash this one, please........

Can fires up and idles fine, and runs fine for a mile or so. I can boot it, but only once or twice, then once I've done that, it feels like it's running on 5 cylinders. If I let it cruise a while, and give it part throttle it runs fine, but if I floor it, it'll go onto stuttering again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump dying, and it can't supply enough flow to sustain high demand? It was whining a lot when I fitted the VR (it' an 8v pump, same as a VR6 one though). but I took it out and agve it a wd40 spray which shut it up. so that leads me to suspect that it's finally dying now. your thoughts before I go buy a new one please.

hehehe, I can't help being who I am! And besides, you're all slowly realising that I know what I'm talking about! Chris, see sig, after 5 years of playing with VR6's that's what I've ended up with. By no means a definitive list, but I've tried all sorts and stuck with what's in there, and boy God does it work. You can have a drive when you come up for the Jetta. (that should speed things up a little!)

Try an electric power steering pump too. gives 5-8bhp apparently.

As a rule of thumb, If it doesn't look good enough to drink, then change it.

If it says no signal then it shouldn't be running! in fact, it can't run without a signal from the crank sensor. I certinaly woulsn't buy a new one going off that info mate. Tell him to clear the codes, start the engine, then run anoter test, I bet it doesn't come back up, it can't. Part number on mine is 021 906 433 C bosch number 0 261 210 105 does the engine run OK? At the very least, I'l take the sensor out and clean it up and clean the lbock and efit it agin to see if the rror goes away. but otherwise Id ignore if it runs.

I threw a bottle of Wynns injector cleaner in mine. dunno if it made any difference though

oh, and it'll always throw up an error code if you run the diagnostics with the engine off. clear it, and run it with the engine running. I bet it goes away. G28 vehicle speed sensor by any chance?

look on my avatar. it's the black dot to the right of the oil filter housing. I reads a toothed wheel on the crank and tells the ECU where the crank is at so it knows when to fire. if it's f*cked the engine won't run. about £140 from the dealers. try a bosch dealers and see if it's cheaper.

I've got a PC with it on at the moment. 16 pin style connector. York area if anyone need it?

If it's anything electric, then suspect the crank sensor. If that doesn't pick up a signal for one cycle then it'll stall.

Or just don't stop. Keep moving al the time. Leave a bigger gap inbetween you and the car in front, you'll find that your driving is much less stop/start.