PhatVR6

mine didn't

vr6 rad and fans? put the vr6 water sensor housing on the 24v engine and use the vr6 top hose.

it'd have been funnier if the kid burst at the end.

would you take a mirror polished schrick in exchange or part ex?

lads only like her because she's into cars and has a dirty giggle (snort?) as someone once pointed out many years ago when the very same subject came up on clubgti.......she looks like rick mayall. still, all said, I'd do her, and I can actually stake claim to the fact that I made her laugh once. I was at Bruntingthorpe at a mag shoot for my mates car, and this big range rover with tinted windows pulled over. windows roll down, who's driving? none other than tiff needell! with VBH in the passenger seat. "what are you doing here,you can't stay here, I'll be burning a tyre out over there soon and if you stay here you'll be in the shot" squaks tiff in his best arline pilot style voice. to which I replied "so, we don't mind" cue giglles from VBH then the writer from PVW promptly told him to "f*ck off elsewhere"!!! which VBH found even more hilarous. pompous old tiff put right in his place for once. classic.

try changing the oil too if it's overfuelling that much it'll have contaminated the oil, which can also throught the CO readings high. My missus golf just failed last week, just done the exact same thing after reading the tip in the haynes manual. also, when you take it for the test, give it a damn good high speed high revs raggin before you get there, it'll also keep the CO down. if the car is stood for a while and tested from cold it's bound to fail. so never leave your car with them all day for an MOT. book it in at a set time, then rag it there so it's hot when he tests it.. this also means the guy might burn his hands if he looks too close, serves him right, swines.

definitely clockwise go buy a caliper wind back tool, makes life much easier

spooky, just done one of these today (well, 2 actually, seeing as the first one didn't fit) the size you list is correct. I could have suppllied you with the SKF number, but unfortunatley my motor factors gave me bearings that were 38.8mm ID........i was well pleased to find the hub wouldn't fit in it. it goes without saying, you need a hydraulic press to fit them, not a hammer. here's my technique:- Get the hub assembly off the car. if I need to tell you how to do that you shouldn't be tackling the job in the first place. find a nice big socket, just under 40mm. place the hub assembly face down in a vice. put the socket over the hub and belt out with the hammer Removeve what's left of the inner races and bearing rolling elements remove the circlips. if they won't budge stick a drift inthe hole and give it a taop with the hammer to free it. run a bea dof weld around the inner race. when it cools the effect of the weld pulls on the bearing race and shrinks it a little. it also gives you something to hit. If you have an old bearing race, grind down the outside so it's smaller than 72mm. use this as a collar with which to press the old bearing out. if you don't have one, then you'll have to belt it out with the hammer. clean up the hub carrier and the bore fit the outermost circlip place the hub carrier face down in the press. put the new bearing in from the back use the old bearing as a collar to press the new bearing in with, pressing only on the outer race (hence the ideal use of the old ground down bearing) wait until the pressure guage starts to show pressure. as soon as it does, the bearing is home. fit the inner circlip take the hub carrier out of the press, and place the hub itslef on the press bed. place the hub asssembly over it, face down. find another socket ro collar, this tim as big as the inner race. use this to make sure that your press is only pressing on the inner race of the new bearing. again, press until the guage registers, this should be enough to see the hub pressed right into the bearing. fit it to the car! I ALWAYS change the track rod end an bottom ball joint too. saves having to mess about with them another time. for the few quid they coast you might as well do them whilst you're in ther, and it's odds on you'll split the boots on them anyway trying to get the hub ccarrier off in the first place. have fun.

cool! I'll be able to hit 60 in first with my new ratios ;-)

try re greasing the caliper slider pins and cleaning up the surfaces the pads are meant to slide on and re grease those too.

what he said. seen a few with 20 bent valves due to timing belts stripping after not being changed. also, seen crakced heads, from the water pump impeller deciding to detach itslef from the pump.

no, the VR6 ones attach with a drop link bolted into the end. subrames are the smae shape though so it should fit that OK. I guess you could cut them down and thread the end of the bar to accpet the link though.

as Supercharged, syas, take off the undertray to see.

did I say accelerator? CLUTCH pedal. DBW cars have a clutch switch, much like a brake light switch.

have a look at the pedal box. just look directly above the clutch pedal, for a switch. simple as that really!

do you have a clutch switch wired in?

mine never did that, nor does my 4motion, which is also DBW.

I can't even spin the wheels at all in mine, even in the wet!

haven't tried the standard rack on it yet as the hub I've fitted currently has a burnt out TRE stuck in it so i can't see if the taper is the same or not, most likely not, but you can get around that with rose joints instead of TRE's (track rod ends) it's looking like needing eccentric top mounts, when I put the centre of the strut in the middle of the turret the camber was positive and I had to swing the top of the strut inboard to get any sort of camber. Need to have a bit more of a play aournd with it to work out what's fully possibly and what's interchangeable, and when I have I'll start a new thread for those mods to keep it out of my build up thread. also, I've just noticed the wheels sits quite forwards int he arch, going to have to take some more measurements and refit the bumper too. fitting the TT hubs with the bigger distacne between the hub and ball joint should bring the wheel back a little (as the struts slope backwards).

cut the T peice part of the hose out completely and replace it with the plastic t peice off a late mk3 vr6 (with the extra clips of course) you then also get the added bonus that it gets air out of the system better, because the expansion tank hose is in line with the flow, rather than off to the side.

borbet a's have to be one of THE worst wheels I've seen for fitting big brakes behind, which is a damn cshame, as they are great wheels. unfortuntatly, it's form over function here, and that huge dish is there because the centre is pushed as far back into thte wheel as it'll go, so big brakes are a no no.

I used boxster S calipers. same as 996. boxster are much smaller. I've got mine on 323mm Porsche 993 carrera 4 turbo discs on MOV-IT Audi TT fitment bells, with MBT carriers. Did have them on the corrado, probably going to fit them on the mk4 instead as the 312's are abysmal. My mate had the same calipers on his 4 stud vento. he used 305mm SEAT Ibiza Cupra discs, with the SEAT carriers too (bought when they were only £15 each). Just had to mill down the carrier a bit to get the discs to the correct spacing of the 305mm disc. Also worth noting, you have to moiunt the caliper on the opposite side of the car, upside down, and change the link pipe over to the other end of the caliper (so it's back ont he bottom, with bleed nipples at the top). reason being, they are fitted on the trailing edge on the Porsche, but on the leading edge on the VW, so if you fit them straight on, you have the biggest piston on the leading edge of the pad, when you need the smallest piston on that side, so the pad wears evenly and doesn't go skew wiff in the caliper, causing an awfulosqueal. My mates were fitted incorrectly like this, and the noise annoyed hoim so much he sold them and bought AP's! when he could have fixed it for nothing, ieven made him some more link pipes for free.

definitely worth it on the 4 mo, the quicker rack is bvery noticable, and if you're lowering it, which I know you will be, then you need the hubs and wishbones. got a spare set of wishbones if you're after some, know where there's a complete audi 3.2 TT setup going, including front and rear ARB's.

damn good choice there. are you copying off me or what? first a 24v corrado, now a 4motion. only joking, looking forward to seeing it progress, your skills and tastes are impecable. i just know it's going to be good. after any bits for it? i've got a few things you may be interested in.