PhatVR6

...if it ever gets on the road, we'll find out.......... :wink: you already have. has everyone forgotten about my car or something?? first jay claimed his was the one and only in PVW (Ok, possibly due to the writer rather than jay), then 10 pages of excitment over stans paid for conversion. Need I point out that coxy had a 24v in his yellow corrado 2 years ago, and I fitted my R32 lump on my driveway in september 2004, getting it running on xmas eve 2004. come one, give up some credit guys!

just get it on the road!! farting about with pointless stuff now, just drive it! what are you going to do if you drive it and decide you don't like it??? I started smoothing the engine bay of my mk2 and got bored with it. it took me 3 years to decide I didn't want to go down that route.

looking good (and rather familiar too!)

bump feeling a bit left out do I thought I'd bang my thread to the top! new pics coming soon. interior gone, Lm's gone, engine still in bits, dash hanging out, no brakes! :-(

check the part numbers on ETKA. I've been told that Passat TDI joints are stronger. (probably indicated by a higher suffix on the part number meaning it's a revised part) so long as you don't go spinning the wheels everywhere and doing hard standing starts it should be alright. then again, with 380lbs.ft it isn't going to do much else other than spin the wheels!

still coming round on saturday jay? ;-)

yes, me too.....still nothing....

I'm about to sell my 288's so I'll measure the length of the hoses and take some pics before they go so you can make you're own the same. or if you're scared, I can make them for you. 288's have the same calipers and 312's, so they should fit both (although an extra 10mm wouldn't hurt) best thing about the rally design stuff is that you can change the ends. I had mine on my 280's. just changed the ends to banjo fittings when I went to the 288's. made all my own bias valve piping up too. all these hoses can be made up with any fittings you want, you just need to know where to get the fittings. I can get stainless ones, chromed ones, anodised ally ones, you name it.

don't go 4x4, strip it out and go for a full on lightweight racer!

does it understeer if you go into a corner neutrally? or just inder power?

don't buy goodridges, they are a rip off. buy the bits from rally design http://www.raldes.co.uk and make your own.

see above. still awaiting full price list.

satin black the centres. and lose those awful red centre caps. I can't help thinking they look really small! I must have been spoiling myself with huge LM's of late.

so you weren't tempted to go for flared arches then?

bloody hell! i bet that's a bit wick! impressive stuff fella.

there aren't many charged VR6's about putting out a proven 300bhp. but those that do seem to have most or all ofthe mods listed in the first post! Thing is, if you're going to do that much work, why not turbo it, in fact, why not turbo a 24v for the same sort of money and laugh your arse off with 500bhp instead.

Spoke to the guy again today. full price list coming up, along with recommended batteries for our cars. hoping to kick this off VERY soon now.

optima group buy starting very soon, I contacted the guy again yesterady, he's giving me a full price list next time he contacts me

lol! even with the splitter?

the hole in the hub carrier isn't threaded, no, the bolt will just be rusted into it. wind the locking nut off,but also still try and turn the bolt itself to break off the rust. just be careful with heat, you'll melt the DV boot if you're not. also, this does not apply to VR6's, as they don't have the through bolt, they have a big nut on the ball joint, and a STUPID socket i the end of the ball joint, whixh is just so feeble and weak that it just splits every time and is utterley uselss for holding the joint still.

never said you did. but if it's never been off, it's odds on they'll either snap or round off. single hex sockets are what you need. class avatar eh!

first of all, you'll need a ball joint splitter, or you'll never get it out. slacken wheel bolts jack car up remove wheel undo 17mm nut and bolt in bottom of hub carrier. hammer the bolt out (it'll be tight) use ball joint splitter and hammer to get ball joint out of hub carrier undo the 3 13mm bolts holding the ball joint to the wishbone clean up all the bolts with a wire brush and apply copper grease to the threads fit new ball joint to wishbone use a screwdriver to line up the bolt holes refit 13mm bolts but don't tighten just yet apply a bit of grease to new ball joint push down wishbone and swong hub assenbly over then let go of wishbone to allow the ball joint to go up into the hole give wishbone a tap from underneath with a hammer to make sure the groove in the ball joint is lined up with the hole fort he bolt you took out first refit 17mm head bolt and renew locking nut reift wheel drop car back down check camber jack back up and adjust ball joiint as necessary tighten all bolts go and get tracking.geometry set properyl befor eyou wear your tyres out sorted. I will stress again, you will NOT get it out without a ball joint splitter.

Koni won't do me a custom kit, and they don't listen a syncro fitment. Seen a corrado on bilstein PSS9's, it was bouncing down the road like a pimped up chevy impala on hydraulics, not thanks. saying that, the VW Racing Bilsteins (R32) in my mk4 are fantastic. H&R's aren't exactly easy to find, but I've had them ,and they leaked, and my mate who ran them blew the seals out of his hitting a pot hole

if it's more than a grand I can't afford it. and it will be. anything with remote reservoirs is going to be £500 a corner at least.

When was that? MARCH?!?! (hehehe)