PhatVR6

where did you buy them? do they have male ends at both ends?

turbo it!

you could just go for the final drive, but if you're paying for labour, you'd be daft not to get a rfull gearbox rebuild and that then makes you think diff.... and then flywheel clutch chains etc etc I wouldn'y specifically pull the box out just to change the FD. save up for a diff first. I always HATED the gearing in my old mk2 VR6, and they day I blew the gearbox up I actually stood and laughed and cursed the bastard then, then got the credit card out and rang stealth for a full on 3.94, quaife diff, gemini 6 speed and rebuild! which then changed to having it changed again into a syncro gearbox, with a peloquin diff and now a motorsport shifter. The box is the best thing I ever bought for any of my cars. and yes, that inlcudes the 265bhp 3.2 engine I just sold.

if you think it's hard getting that dpwnpipe in there, just imagine it with a prop and a big rubber coupling to get past. I spent a week on my downpipe, and I'm still not happy with it.

I think a quaife/peloquin diff is essential, yes. but I drive hard, and I go on trackdays too. somepeople need one, some people don't. box rebuild is about £400 diff is £575 final drive is about £200 I think. can't see it putting much more than £100 on a rebuild cost.

look on the bright side....if it's not a storm, sell the stupid badges on ebay for about £300....

well if you stop spending money randomly, and actually try and work out whats wrong it won't cost you much.

MT90 here too.

and have you taken them out to see what they're like?

what do your plugs look like?they can tell you a lot of what's going on in the engine. Fit a new set, run it for a while, then take then out and have alook att hem (remebering which one came from which port of course) checked your compressions?

No i'd much rather you gave it a good thrapping and I thought you were on the vice squad!

elephant are no good for cars like this, you need a specialist brokers who will know what you're talking about when you tell them ewhat mods you've done.

the final drive is the last stage of the gearbox. it's the actually ring gear on the outside of the differential, which of course turns at the smae speed as the wheels, and the pinion shift which drives it. the number we're referring to relate to the difference i the amount of teeth (and thus the gear ratio) of the pinion and ring gear. i.e. it takes 3.94 turns of the pinion to turn the wheels once. in other words, the gearing is shorter with a 3.94 than it would be with a 3.3. it's a gearbox out job. althogh 5th gear can be changed with the box in the car.

surely the simple answer is:- DRIVE IT MORE OFTEN it's standard enough to be used as a daily driver, stop being so anal about keeping it mint and just use it.

it's the final drive you need to change. The UK corrado has a 3.3:1 final drive, same as the golf vr6, and it's awlful, it kills the engine. 3.6 is a G60 final drive I believe. US corrado's came with a 3.6, and canadian ones had a 3.94! I've gone for a 3.94 in mine, mainly because I knew I was going to be running 18"s when I had the box built for my old mk2 golf. That, and the 6 speed is like having another 50bhp, you may want to consider going for a taller 5th gear too to compensate, I think my 6th os a 0.71:1, but my memory isn't up to much at this time of night, you will need the crown wheel (ring gear) and the matching pinion shaft too (the gear teeth are actually part of the shaft you see. well worth havig a quaife/peloquin diff fitted at the same time, the extra torque you have at the wheels due tot he gearing will mean you will have more traction issues

not a clue mate, mines not insured taxed or MOT'd either! got a similar dilemma myself. I've "used up" my no claims on my 4 motion (quite how you "use up" a time based bonus I don't know but that's what the insurance says), so I',m a bit stuck what to do. My 4mo was insured as an R32, because that's what it was. now I know there's shit all change of me getting any money back off them by tellig them it's now a stock 2.8 again, so I could really do with tranferring the policy over to the corrado. BUT, then I'm stuck with having to insure a £10K 4 year old 150mph car with no no claims. I can't win. bastard insurance, I hate it. got the bike to insure too. greedy feckers, I can't drive/ride them all at once!! The only advice I can give it get it insured and go for a linited mileage policy, limit it really low... or lie about your milage when you ring them so you get a cheap forst year out of them as you won't be using it that much.

ah, now I see

whats revving it over 3000rpm got to do with it? you should really use commas, I can barely understand what you're on about!

that will be some drive home! (or are you trailerering it home, just in case there are any other problems with the car?)

2 weeks to map an engine? what are they pissing about at? it's a days work!

for an immobiliser, just take the ECU or fuel pump relay with you whenever you leave the car. as for being an idiot, well, thats's me.....to finish off the sage of my alarm and the above situation, what I didn't realise was that the alarm had been totally result to it's factory defaults....one of which is an anti-hijack thing, it locks the doors wheneve you start the engine. now, when i found this out, what I'd donr (don't ask me why) was start the engine with the door open, then got out, shut the car door (it was raining) and opened the garage door. returned to the car and....you guessed it. I'm locked out....the engine is running, the only set of keys and keyfob are in the ignition, and it starts to hailstone...... I rang the clifford dealers and went ballistic at them for not telling me it'd lock my doors. dickheads. I ended up having to smash the boot plinth off (mk2 golf) and use a bit of bend wire to pull the wiring for the boot solenoid through the hole in the tailgate. and the break the grille (rallye....) so I could pop the bonnet, and run a wire fromt he battery to the solenoid to pop the boot. a feat made even more panic inducing because my fan swithc wasn't working.....and the engine was getting hotter and hotter all the time, as I was getting wetter and wetter. I was midly agitated....

ring your local clifford dealer. mine did that, they came out, bypassed the immobiliser and took the main unit away and sent it off to clifford for unlocking. all I have to pay was £10 postage to get it back, . lock your doors from the inside and climb out of the boot. if you haven't got a boot lock, fit one.

I utterly detest the sound of diesel engines. unfortunately, most of my neighbours have them and one of them seem to just love firing his van up at 6am and leaving his engine runnign for 20 minutes before he goes to work.........

it's a PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. in that it uses the vaccum of the intake to draw out the fumes from the engine. downsides being, that horrible, hot smelly air actually reduces the octane rating of the fuel onceit's in your engine. if the pipe is split, you're letting in too much unmetered air into the intake, which isn't good as it'll confuse the ECU and also upset your MPG. bin the pipe, block off the hole in the intake and fit a K&N or Pipercross breather filter on the rocker cover...

I've got a golf one on mine.