stormseeker

I take it you haven't got the OE immobiliser then? Sure you can get an all metal key blank, but then you still need the immobiliser transponder from somewhere...

Nope they can't :-( The point of doing this is : 1. gadget factor (cool switchblade!) 2. less trouser pocket wear from the key - rather than alarm fob & sharp key you now have 2 smooth rounded fobs... 8) ...my progress so far - I've had my VW key copied (decided NOT to hack my original VW key to bits), but when I hacked the copy key to bits, there's not enough metal in the critical place for the pin to hold it in the switchblade mechanism :-( Picture also shows the transponder chip for the immobiliser...

Yeah - I was looking at a specialist suppliers catalogue at work the other day - found a weatherproof box with with transparent flip top lid which looks a bit like the fuse covers on the rad fan control relays. Looks nice but cost about 30 quid... hmmmmmmmm

yep, I know, I was in a hurry, which is never a good thing.... Still could be better...

well, impressed as I was with the increased light output, I was in a bit of a hurry when I fitted the relays under the bonnet, and wasn't very happy with how they looked.... (cable ties and PVC tape == big mess !!! :oops: ) So when the main beam relay developed a sticking problem, I ripped them out and started again ;-) Now it looks a bit better... 8) 8) 8) Just need to fashion a small clear plastic cover (out of an old box :-) ) to give a bit of splash cover to the fuses..... Whaddya reckon?

I think there's a manifold pressure sensor in the instrument cluster - that gives the MFA a clue as to how much fuel is going in to the engine, and of course it knows how far you've travelled... one divided by the other gives you your mpg...

is that Midge's dad? :lol:

...to put that further into context, I remember when Ford launched the Ka, they were worried about the sales figures in the UK, quoting something like 11,000 a month! - compare that with the 9000 Corrados sold in the UK over its entire lifetime :shock:

Shouldn't we all be tucked up in our wee beds at this time of the morn anyway? ;-) :-) (Notice how I dropped in a "wee" bit of your North of the Border lingo? 8) )

just to illustrate what a difference this mod makes:- before I would sometimes have to switch on the front fogs to feel like I could actually see where I was going. Now, after fitting the uprated loom, when the dipped beam's on if I switch on the fogs I can hardly notice the extra light as the std. beam is so bright :-) 8) 8)

Awwwwwwwwwww come on you two - a big kiss and a cuddle and you'll feel better :? :roll:

Confused the hell out of me til I twigged it was Feb 2003 - D'oh !

If you are ok with auto-electrics, try http://www.matey-matey.com/uprated_head ... ring.shtml

You said you'd done your dipped beam - so for 2 x 60W dipped beam powered off one relay = 120W which draws approx. 10A. BUT for main beam on a Corrado you have the 2 extra 60W bulbs too = total of approx. 20A --- I am making this clearer or just confusing things :? :? :?

what was wrong with the wire? seems brighter than standard to me so im happy Sorry, should have clarified that a bit... It's fine for the 120W/10A dipped beam but ... isn't up to the job for main beam - i.e. 240W/20A - compare some proper 20A cable with the yellow wire in the ring kit....

Bo11ox - could have picked some up from GSF when I bought the pump - D'oh :roll: thought it was VW dealer only :roll:

I'm gonna change the water pump next week, and do a proper flush/clean before filling the coolant up again. Do I really need to buy G12 from VW, or will some other generic stuff (perhaps approved by VW?) do???

Yeah the relays are the "Ring" ones, as are some of the connectors - for the main beam ( 4 x 60W ==> approx 20A :shock: ) the wire supplied in the ring kit isn't up to the job, hence my bespoke effort...

Wow :shock: driving in to work this morning I could actually see! Finally got round to fitting my home-made loom and mounted the relays on a bracket on the side of the fan control module/fuseblock.... I'd bought a couple of OE headlamp connectors from VWNW auto-jumble last year so it plugs up nice and leaves the original connectors untouched... 8) 8) Haven't gone the whole hog with the Osram bulbs, still using some Halfords "30% brighter" Xenon jobbies, but the difference the loom made was astounding! Best mod I've done so far...(apart from the 30bhp I gained by fitting the "corrado-forum.net" sticker...) :D :) :D

so there's normally a volatge regulator for the lighting circuit then is there? :wink: keeping it at a nominal 12.0V? ;-) :D Anything taking raw "12V" on a car should be rated to cope with 13.8V +/- a hefty wedge of tolerance...

And the later cars with the OE immobiliser have the part number ending CP have a look here for all the part numbers...

found this on the CCA site I think, had it stored for a rainy day :-) ... ================================================================= Thanks for those (especially Todd!) who helped me with the shifter linkage adjustment. The procedure is really straightforward. History: The car was shifting perfectly until one day when someone whacked my shifter, which made it out of alignment (long story.) Symptoms: The shifter was not centered and shifting from neutral to third is not dead on. (It should shift to third from neutral with VERY little force; you should be able to just slide it to third with your pinky finger.) Fixes: 1) Gently pull up the shifter console, there are 2 tabs at the bottom which holds the console in place. 2) There are 2 13mm hex bolts in the shifter assembly. I loosened the wrong bolts at first; it should be the bolt that is located on the shifter between the spring levers. 3) Loosen the bolt and adjust the shifter until the side-to-side movement/tension is about equal AND you can slide the shifter DIRECTLY upward from neutral to third gear. Make sure you retighten the bolt for each try. Results: It makes a huge different in shifting!! Shifting to all gears are much more precise like it was before the "incident". If after adjusting the shifter and you still have problems, you will need to adjust the cable. The following are the steps outlined by Todd@AWE: 15. If further adjustment is required, either have your VW dealer perform the adjustment, or do it yourself. CABLE "A" (Driver side): if pushing down and to the side on the shift lever to go into reverse, and it gets hung up on the reverse lockout, then this cable needs to be adjusted. Note the position of the cable end to the transmission lever on the transmission. Loosen the bolt and slide the cable toward the front of the car in small increments until the lever does not hang up on the reverse lockout. Retighten the bolt to 18ft/lbs. CABLE "B" (Passenger side): if 1st or 5th gears are hard to get into, then this cable must be adjusted. Note position of cable end on transmission lever. Loosen the bolt and slide the cable rearward in small increments for better alignment for 1st gear. Slide the cable forward for 5th gear alignment. Retighten the bolt to 11ft/lbs. Thanks!

Bear in mind the spoiler lift points were spec'd in Km/h - the original cars lifted at 130 km/h (80ish mph), but then they dropped it to 70 km/h (45ish mph) at some date, and then changed it again to 90 km/h (60ish mph) for the later cars...

Without those awful window stickers I hope :shock:

A list of VINs would in no way whatsoever have anything to do with the DPA.