daves16v

Yep it's not made any difference to the pedal feel or biting point. Agree I should get the brake fluid changed. Just spoke to GSF they can order it at £87+vat with 5 day delivery which I thought was strange as ECP are doing it for £58 next day delivery. AA said it will be ok to drive home so will drop by at ECP.

Just got back in from seeing AA man. He bled the system, fluid was pretty dirty, still no leaks, no air in the system so he's putting it down to a faulty master cylinder. He even lifted the cover on the top of the gearbox and could see that the release bearing was ok. He lives locally and called a mate who works at ECP, master cylinder came in at £58. I'm gonna give GSF a ring too.

AA will be here in about 5 mins.

Firstly thanks for replying quickly chaps. Don't know when the fluid was last changed. There are no leaks from either the master or slave and the slave is unpainted NOT Black. I don't know when or if these have ever been changed. Yes I have AA cover, might give em a call. Checked the fluid level and it's ok.

Pulled into the work carpark this morning and the clutch felt a little different, by the time I'd found a space and parked up the clutch biting point had moved from the top to the bottom and was getting more difficult to engage gear. I'm guessing I've got a master or slave cylinder seal problem, can anyone confirm this and if so which one could be at fault? So now I'm stuck at work with perhaps no clutch, I might be able to get home but trying to get across a city centre at rush hour is not going to be fun so I might leave work at lunch so it's less busy. I could do with some advice regarding diagnosing the problem by the time I get home if at all possible so I can get the repairs started as it's my daily driver. I can get hold of seals fairly easily, hoping I don't need complete cylinders as I've read they might be obsolete :( Thanks for any help. Dave

Yes it does but it's inside the tunnel, above the exhaust. Screws are Stainless so won't rust.

Not sure, sometime in August I think. Ok, PM me when you have a date but the lask week is a no-go.

:shrug: Would you be prepared to fit it for me if I came to you? Obviously in exchange for more money, beer and eternal gratitude Yeah no probs, when you thinking?

Yep :) I think I'll have to take one off you once I pick my rado up. It's got a loose cover which Bill never got round to doing. How much would it be, and how exactly is it fitted (I'm new to corrado's so an idiots guide to fitting it would be great :))[/quote:3p3qd6j1] £12 without drill bit and Tap, £16 with. It attaches to the plastic tunnel underneath the top cover (the bit that works loose) and to the floor.

Yep :)

You're also missing the cover above the coilpack (right hand side of the head) so that'll help too.

Yeah go for VW's G12, I think it actually says G12 plus plus on the bottle, just checked yes it does. Buy 2 bottles (3 litres) and mix with 6 Litres of water. The VR coolant capacity is 9 litres but you'll never get it all out so after re-filling you should have some left over for top ups.

When removing the under dash trim on the driver side it fell apart in my hand - it's made-up of 2 bigish parts. Now this is one of those parts that you cannot just bang some screws in as most of them would be visible from the outside, hence the reason it is plastic welded from the factory. So having done a little bit of plastic welding myself on bumpers and bits of trim I thought I'd have a go with my trusty soldering iron and here are my results. I'm actually pretty pleased with the way it went. First I clamped the 2 pieces together and started to work my way around re-welding the original spots done at the factory and also stitching the mating faces too for extra strength. You've just got to be uber careful not to go through the plastic and out the other side, main thing is to take your time, absolutely NO rushing. I had to cut through the insulation in places to get to the join but these glue back down no problem. It's actually fairly easy to do, just make sure you heat up both parts of the trim and try to push some excess plastic into the joint from the inner trim part where the flanges are thickest. Make sure you get the mixed plastic hot and manipulate it into the point where the trim pieces join, a steady hand is required here. Allow the hot joint to cool before you move onto the next one, a couple of minutes should do it. Comments?

Ok thanks guys, I'll go order one :) Edit - just called VW - £79 inc vat Edit again - that price was for the offside, GB mount is £54.50 inc vat so I've ordered it from TPS, collect Sat morning ready for the weekend.

I say engine mount as I'm also getting a jerk/thud when I lift off the gas. Any idea how much a VAG gearbox mount is and is it easy to change? Thanks for your help chaps.

I've had some clutch judder since I've had the car and I'm putting it down to engine mounts. Is there a specific mount that would cause this or is it a combination of worn mounts? Thanks Dave

Yep, no probs.

didnt realise, sorry. Ill take it withouth bit and tap. Already have them. Just a quick question, why not use pop rivets? You can use pop rivets if you like but I doubt there is enough room for the rivet gun, also once you pull the rivet there is no scope for adjustment, there are slots in the bracket. Pop rivets are ok for certain applications but not this one but again you can use them if you like.

You need to specify which kit you want - there is a kit with the drill bit and tap and a kit without (you may already have the drill and tap). Thanks

Which kit - with drill bit and tap or without?

PM sent :)

Just getting the parts together for a run of these if anyone's interested. Thanks

Looks like a good'en Andy, welcome back to VR ownership.

Nice one Andy, now hurry up and get some pics up :D

Yep, cutting away the remaining part of the striker arm is the last resort, long winded but it works.