daves16v

Oh crap, really sorry to see this Paul but glad to hear you're ok. Keep your chin up matey and let us know how the insurance respond.

I have to point out that Jim put me onto Lynbrooks.

Result !!!!

PM's Sent.

I didn't know there was a join like that in the door loom, I've not come across it while doing searches. Yeah I've wrapped the pass door already, will be doing the driver tomorrow.

Stripped the driver side door tonight and found exactly the same problem so if anyone has central locking that isn't working off the key then this could be your problem. DON'T go buying another door handle, check the wiring first.

.......and because it's a classic policy on limited mileage it will be cheaper despite not having any NCB. I paid £230 for a 16v but beware my policy stated my car had to be garaged at my home address between 10pm and 6am unless you're away from home.

Had another go today this time I tried another control/pump module kindly lent by Purpletom - thanks Tom. This didn't fix the problem so the only thing left to check was wiring. To cut a long story short I traced the fault down to a broken wire in the door. Infact there were 3 wires connected together - from the main loom to the door handle loom and the lock actuator - see photo. It's just a case of a corroded joint as it was completely disconnected. It was quite a long winded pain in the ass trying to diagnose the fault so hopefully this thread will help others. It initially pointed to a broken door handle loom but this was all good. That's the passenger side working ok now, the driver side doesn't work so I'm banking on that having the same problem, I'll strip it down tomorrow.

Thanks for the feedback - every Corrado should have one :norty:

Try these for classic insurance - http://www.lynbrookins.co.uk I was insured with them under classic with limited mileage, 2nd car etc etc.

Semi lazy = Rado

PM sent.

Sorry mate, I did take a brief look. It is angle iron or box section, I couldn't quite make the drawing out?

Anyone?

I'll take a look for you.

Yes it was mine about 7 years back then I sold it to another forum member. Ah right cool, I own it now but i have my private plate on it. Just thought id check as my last one had a few owners off here so thought this would be the case with this one. Cheers Infact I think the forum member I sold it to sold it to someone else on the forum so yeah I think it has stuck around the forum for a few years.

Yes it was mine about 7 years back then I sold it to another forum member.

Just thought I'd post this up as there didn't seem to be too many posts on this subject. After removing my alarm I had to lock the doors with my key as the central locking had packed up. The key wouldn't go in the tailgate lock so I thought it must have been changed in the past and I'd have a go at re-tumbling the lock. Remove the interior plastic panel to find the lock mechanism. The barrel is held in place with a roll pin, you need to remove this pin to get the barrel out. The hard part is removing the pin as there is little space to push it out, gripping it with pliers completely destroyed it which is what you have to do to pull it the rest of the way out. With the pin out there is an end plate that needs to come off, be very careful as there is a small spring and detent ball bearing behind the plate and they are very small and easily lost. With these removed you can pull/push the barrel out, now I'm not entirely sure if the key needs to be in to remove the barrel, I didn't use my key because when the barrel was removed I could see why - after years of none use due to the alarm unlocking the doors, the tumblers had seized up with years of dirt hence the key wouldn’t go in. I cleaned the whole thing up and lubricated it, turned out that my key did fit it without re-tumbling. To re-tumble the lock it is the same procedure used for the front door lock barrels. The problem now is finding a suitable pin to replace the roll pin, I used a nail cut to length but it does have to be of the right diameter otherwise it will drop out over time. I didn’t get any photo’s as it’s pretty straight forward apart from removing the pin. Hope this helps.

ok thanks, that should help me diagnose my spoiler problem.

Do you know if a 94 VR has a similar speed sender in the dash? I know it has a gearbox speed sensor.

Fitted mine yesterday and I can report a marked improvement so thanks Alex for setting this up.

In an attempt to tidy up some wiring whilst I did a dash swap, I removed my alarm to fit it in a better location. Now that the alarm is out the central locking has stopped working on both handles. All I did was to remove the wiring to the C/L circuit and insulate. I've done alot of searching and have checked a few things using Yandards C/L fault finding sheet (thanks for that). I got to the part for checking the handle microswitch and this failed so I double checked the switch with a multimeter and found it to be working. Next I disconnected the handle plug from the loom and bridged the connections on the loom side, I half expected the pump to fire up but I got nothing. Then I checked that there was 12v to the handle which there was so now I'm stumped. I've only checked the driver side handle but it should still work if the pass handle is shot? Is there something that has been disconnected or disabled to allow the alarm to control the C/L? The 20amp fuse is ok otherwise the early tests in the fault finding sheet would have failed. Everything was working as it should have when the alarm was connected, even the total closure was working. Any help greatly appreciated.

Will be borrowing a instrument cluster at the weekend from Purpletom on here so we'll see if that sorts the problem. If not then I can't think of anything else except dodgy wiring.

Agreed it's the next cheapest option, anyone local reading this?

Got mine off ebay, seems good stuff.