daves16v

Do the Beru leads come in various lengths as per the originals?

Thanks for the quick reply, I'll get my wallet out.

Thanks for the info guys. Can I still use the removal tool bought on here if I go for the Beru leads? I ask because the photo of the lead on the website looks different to what I have now. Thanks Dave

Ya fix 1 problem and another is just round the corner, starting to get cheesed off with it, and I've found a problem with the work that the bodyshop did :( Changed the aux water pump this weekend along with swapping the heater matrix hoses over as they were the wrong way around, probably had no effect but I wanted it right. Filled coolant back up and all is leak free and well. Was well pleased with myself. So onto the next job of changing the spark plugs, pretty straight forward I thought - oh no! Three leads are of 1 type and the other 3 are another type :scratch: Plug lead 4 decided to come apart when when I removed it so I pushed the lead back into it's housing, then noticed the the rubber sheath inside the metal end that grips the plug had sheared off :bad-words: I've got the lead back in best I could but sadly it appears to be running on 5 cylinders. What's more the plug lead removal tool isn't the easiest to use when re-fitting the leads. So it looks like I need a set of new leads :( and a car I can't :censored: use. Anyone know how much they are from the stealer or are aftermarket leads worth considering? Thanks for listening :)

Oh crap, they are cheap, never mind I've got them now.

I was asking about the door lock.

Update - plugs arrived this morning, very happy with the product, price and delivery time.

Are talking about the ignition lock or door lock?

Did you manage to sort your lock?

I've got some double sided tape from Halfords, the stuff for sticking trim on with but if I remember it looks a little too thick compared with the stuff that's still on the back of the badge. I'll dig it out and let you know. Just had a look Adam, the Halfords tape is the same thickness so will give that a try. If you haven't got any, pick a strip up when you're passing but you'll have to fix it on there and then as there is only backing on 1 side when you pull it off the roll.

Very helpful, thanks again.

Ok cool. It looks like 1" to the 'VR6' and 2" to the 'Corrado'

Perfect, thanks. Do you know if the badge has ever been off?

I've got some double sided tape from Halfords, the stuff for sticking trim on with but if I remember it looks a little too thick compared with the stuff that's still on the back of the badge. I'll dig it out and let you know.

Quick member gallery search reveals the slope on the 6 aligns with the slope on the O so it actually sits slightly to left.

Thanks guys but that pic doesn't give it away too well.

After having my rear panel painted I want my 'VR6' badge back on but want it in the right position as it left the factory. I'm assuming it is positioned centrally between the Corrado script badge and the bottom of the panel? As for left/right position should it align with the end of the script badge? Thanks Dave

Here ya go.

Green ones are for the rear seat belts.

Thanks Mr Wire :)

After checking the plug type for the VR, can someone confirm that these are correct? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPARK-PLUGS-NGK-X ... 5ad9a27056 Thanks Dave

I can do 1 for you.

Yeah I have considered a used one, I'll price one up and also price an R32 as quoted earlier in this thread. Cheers Tom.

I've found the connector to the aux pump and with the yellow sender pin 1 and 4 bridged, stage 1 fan is on and I'm getting 12v to the pump. Yellow sender connected back up, ignition on and I'm again getting 12v to the pump again so in my case yes the aux pump should run with ignition on. Sadly for me it seems my aux pump is buggered as there is 12v getting to it for sure and it's doing absolutely nowt.

Yup. That's the way late cars work. If the Aux pump isn't working it could be the fuse or a faulty fan control unit. Check the fuse and check the voltage at the plug. There are some diodes in the fan control unit that seem to switch the pump on. They can become unsoldered from the PCB. If you take the unit off and it rattles, it's probably them. The fuse on the board or on the top of the fan control unit? The fuses on the control unit are ok. I couldn't see where the plug connects on the pump?