g60bv
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Everything posted by g60bv
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erm the tooth belt sound lovley. but i wouldn;t reccomend them i've used them for a while and dont rate them. they gain you nothing. and can be unreliable. keep with the standard belt. they were designed ribbed for a reason.
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is that one of the ones off ebay. the core is it 600x300x76.? only i had one but sold it. cos i couldn't see it fitting. but you are usin the rs bumper... bit of a squeeees. did you use a rallye elbow.?
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when i fill up is above full. then after 70 miles its below half. - gulp. then it takes 140 to goto empty. wird. but i've just got used to it.
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wow that is good going. i run a charge cooler and on the motor way cruising its 10'c above ambient. sitting in traffic it can get to 15'c. proves it really. fmic is THE way to go. oh but when the water inj kicks in it drops to about 10'c below ambient.. i put my sensor straight into the throttle body. its been in there about 3 years. what i/c are you using. rallye / golf or a made up one.?
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its could be resonic(?) sounds from the charger belt as it pics up speed. are you running tooth belt or std ribbed.?
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group buy....?? so long as they work. 'monkey' you can be our guine-pig or guine-key
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won. ..? or bought. :) let us know how you get on with these.
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pretty sure you can run a 68 on std belts. may slip a bit. nothing to worry about. erm no you wont need to get anything ceramic coated on these engines. they are very strong and std. just dont run them without the water pump. ! if you put a 68 on you must put a relivent chip to go with it to fuel correctly. you havent got power steering. odd. must be one of the unlucky few,.
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what about putting it in gear and a friend on the brakes. .?.
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look out for a reno 5 turbo carb rejetted. this should fuell enough.
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they aren't accurate enough, and take to long to change. these act units sample every second. so you can see if your water spray works,.
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oh. i run water injection and when it kicks in. temps just drop down.
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try these. not sure if its the same as mine looks very simiar. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Air-charge-temp-g ... dZViewItem
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yes. you will need a act gauge,. - actual charge temp. i have a digital one which fits perfectly into the blanking plate next to the radio. its is very cool.
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nah. just dont worry about them unless your changing them for red tops. the aux belt. do you mean the cam belt.? if so, why not their cheap enough.
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just not too hard. hall sender. .i;ve broken them easily. and thay ant cheap.
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yes thats the dizzy. you need a 13mm or 11mm spanner on the clamp. if the clamp is removed but it still wont come out.- common. turn engine over. this should release it. dont wack it ,hammer it or shunt it. cos you'll distroy the hall sender. rendering it useless. good luck
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difficult. get an extension. you'll need 100mm and a 25-50mm cos theres 3 short and 3 long ones. oh and i hope you don't like the skin on your hands.
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that wire should be the brown one. it works by earthing out. so if it is damgling make sure you tape it. cos it will make the fan run on and on draining the battery. if it does snap. just crimp on a 1/4" female spade connector.
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nitromethane is that safe to use in the pumps. as the aquamist pumps can be a bit fussy with what goes thro them. you should only use methonal alcohol. also available from modelshops. about a fiver a gallon.
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throttle. is 4 6mm allen keys plus hoses and boost return and switch connector. and loosen the 10mm bolt which holds the fuel sensor braket. the throttle should now come out. the inlet manifold is 6 6mm allen keys but really get them in before you try to turn them, you don't want to round them off.! also 4 big allen bolts which holds on to the rocker.. you dont need to remove the injectors these are held into head. . hope this helps.
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perhaps not. but the chargecooler iand the throttele and intake and head are all alloy. but over a long period with regualr soakings, it 'could' weaken the cooling fins. you should only use a 40 % mix
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phil you must have far too much time on your hands. but i also gave her a quick clean. first this year i think,.!