bcstudent

I have to disagree there. There's no way I'd cause damage to someone else's car without leaving a contact number. It's what protected NCB is for!

I'm not sure about the cost, but supplying new bumpstops and top mounts may reduce the fitting time slightly as your current suspension wouldn't have to be stripped to get at the old ones. I'm basing this on you getting a kit that consists of a complete strut. If the kit comes with inserts at the front then the old suspension will need to be stripped anyway, but it'll take no more time to fit with new bump stops and top mounts.

A spine strengthening kit and uprated tooth fillings?

It does sound like classic coil-pack failure.

Nah, you're just asking the right questions.

Being a resistor I suppose it limits the ignition current. Effects (I'm guessing) would likely be more consistent running and a longer spark-plug life at the expense of a negligible power loss and price increase. I have no idea why the recommended plugs aren't R-rated. Perhaps R-rated plugs weren't available back in the days of Corrado production and VW never updated the records to keep with the times. GSF supplied me with R-rated plugs for my 1.8 16v last week and I can honestly say I've noticed no performance difference. Seeing as I've got such little performance to start with, even minimal losses would be evident!

Shouldn't that be WVWZZZ502SK008907? Region: Europe [ W ] Manufacturer: Volkswagen [ V ] Car Type: Passenger Car (VW) [ W ] Body Style: Filler character: No meaning [ Z ] Engine: Filler character: No meaning [ Z ] Restraint: Filler character: No meaning [ Z ] Model: 1990-95 Corrado [ 50 ] Year: 1995 [ S ] Assembly Plant: Karmann, Osnabruck Germany [ K ] Serial #: 008907

Have you got the V5?

The bumper is held on by four large bolts that also bolt through the front cross-member. If you remove the four bumper bolts the crossmember will still be secured by two remaining bolts, but they're much smaller and I don't trust them. They may support the weight of the static engine but you definitely wouldn't want to be driving the car with no bumper iron attached. The front engine mount is bolted to the cross-member so if the cross-member drops, the engine will fall forwards. The front panel is secured by a whole bunch of 10mm bolts. Remove the bumper and the headlights and just work your way around. You'll need to find an alternative way of supporting the raised bonnet (or remove that too) and the bonnet release cable will need to come off. It's pretty straight forward. You'll see when you start.

I must have posted that same picture a dozen times in different threads since I found it on this very forum! I can't remember who to credit for the original picture.

16v, what's the year code in your VIN? I'm guessing 'J'.

^^ what he said

CO definitely stands for Carbon Monoxide with respect to exhaust emissions. It's the result of incomplete combustion of fuel. High CO is an indication of a rich mixture (or a misfire). The cold start valve on the 1.8 and 2.0 16v engines is controlled by a thermo time switch (#4 in the picture). On the 2.0 16v the need for cold-running enrichment is signalled by a temperature switch on the flywheel-end of the cylinder head (#3 in the picture). You can test the operation of the cold start valve by removing it from the inlet manifold and making sure it only operates for a few seconds when cranking the engine from cold. The temperature switch can be tested by checking that it changes state between cold and normal operating temperature. If all else fails check the fuel pressure and the differential pressure regulator current as it's these that ultimately determine the mixture ratio.

That depends, what sort of manifold pressure do you reckon a leaf blower can produce?

That's class.

Shame about the catalyst - that would have been a nice, easy fix. The temperature switch causes the ECU to richen the fuel mixture by increasing the current to the differential pressure regulator under cold-running conditions. It's curious that disconnecting the temperature switch makes it run any different from cold. I'm pretty sure the temperature switch should be open-circuit when cold. I'll have to check that though. I'd test the fuel pressure and the differential pressure regulator current next to see if either of them changes dramatically at the same time the engine starts going nuts.

Apparently so. I changed mine a few weeks ago while I was down there changing the fuel filter. It was more of a precautionary measure really as it's not the nicest area of the car to be working. It's not necessarily the non-return valve that's causing the problem though. System pressure can be lost via a number of components. Are your starting problems from hot or cold?

It may well have been £400 for a reason. I mean, you didn't actually see the car right? It may not have been the bargain you're imagining.

I think I'd be inclined to start from the beginning and check the timing marks, just to be sure. If they check out ok then move onto the ignition timing. I'm not sure how you're going to be able to set the ignition timing without a strobe. I've never noticed a 6 degree timing mark on the distributor before and I can't think of another way to set it without a strobe. When I changed the distributor on my 16v recently I set the timing by ear. It seems to run fine so I haven't gotten around to checking it with a strobe.

It's fitted to the outlet of the main fuel pump (under the car). It's only about £15 and it's not hard to change if you don't mind having petrol running down your arm!

I've heard of that happening before with an exhaust catalyst too. It certainly fits with the symptoms.

If you have a distributor you also have a bog-standard (and cheap) coil...not a coilpack. I thought I'd just make that clear before you went off and spent £130 on a coilpack you don't have!

I think you're right. However, the difference is you can still find a Mk1 Golf.

Well, if your car has a main pump under the floor near the rear driver's side wheel (and I'm betting it has) then it's definitely got a pump in the tank. Since the 2.0 16v fuel system requires the same pressure as the 1.8 16v I'd bet that the pumps are the same. Unfortunately I can't tell you for definite as my copy of ETOS has expired :(

You'd be best to get the part number off the new one and check it against either the one on your car or the VW parts system. I would expect them to be the same but nothing's guaranteed.