bcstudent

Now that's using your head. He's an old man compared to 16v though!

Possibly not but it'll still be classed as modified, which means many companies won't quote. Get quotes before you proceed!

Yes, that blue 'thing' is the cold start valve (also known as the fifth injector). It runs for a few seconds when cold to enrich the fuel/air mixture. The time it operates for is determined by the thermo time switch on the flywheel end of the cylinder head. As it only operates for a few seconds it can only be linked to cold-start problems....unless it's leaking when the engine is stopped, which can cause a loss of system fuel pressure and further dodgy starting. I agree with Kev that the ISV (either the unit of the wiring) is the most obvious and likely cause of the fault at the start of this thread.

My sunroof was working fine before the winter and now it's cocking-well siezed through lack of use. It'll tilt and almost slide but not quite. Another part that isn't getting fixed! Grrrr...

Chargecooler?

If you're testing the 16v sensor then you're just checking that the switch changes state at a certain temperature. If you're testing a 'blue' temperaure sender than I'm not sure what the temperature/resistance relationship is off the top of my head. I'm sure the information is available, maybe in the Bentley manual.

That's the one.

My 1.8 16v runs at 90 degree water temperature all year 'round. Like flusted, I see 70 degrees oil temperature after a short time and a max. of around 100 degrees (with no after-market oil cooler). As far as I can see, the only link between the oil temperature and water temperature senders is the earth. I suspect that the senders operate with a negative temperature coefficient (resistance decreases as the temperature rises), meaning that extra resistance introduced through a poor earth connection would make the associated gauges read low. It's just a theory, but it seems reasonable enough. Plus, cleaning up earth connections in the engine bay is free!

It's just as possible that the Hall sender is at fault. It's easier to test a Hall sender than an ECU too (unless you happen to find someone locally that can try your ECU on their car that is).

You've misunderstood me. What I meant was why do you suggest a 'standard' battery charger can't be used to charge the battery on the bench? How else do you charge a battery other than suply it with a regulated flow of current? My car seems to have quite the appetite for batteries. I'm hoping that an Optima will sort things out, but there's a strong chance it may end up flat at some point.

Coil resistances (in Ohms, obviously): 1.8 16v - Primary = 0.6-0.75, Secondary = 6900-8500 1.8 G60 - Primary = 0.5-0.8, Secondary = 2400-3500 2.0 8v - Primary = 0.5-0.7, Secondary = 3000-4000 2.0 16v - Primary = 0.5-0.8, Secondary = 2400-3500 Source: Autodata Technical Data manual So, it seems only the 2.0 16v and the G60 share the same coils, at least as far as specification goes. As for the Hall sender, I would expect to see a constant supply voltage across pins 1 and 3 with the ignition on - approximately 5v probably.

Blimey, I can see at least four different engines in the first three pages. The common factor? Huge turbos! Nice.

It's completely different on the 2.0 16v, for a start it's not blue (it's white). It's on the flywheel end of the cylinder head and is a switch rather than a negative temperature coefficient sender. You can test the one you have with the aid of a thermometer, a kettle and a multimeter - definitely better than paying £28 for a new one un-necessarily....like I did. Here's a picture I found on the forum when I had the same question...

Generally the fluid levels dropping in a battery is a sign of over-charging, where the fluid is literally boiled away. If this hasn't happened as a result of charging on the bench then you may find your alternator regulation is at fault.

I've got a few good pumps from late Mk2 8v GTIs. If you can gt the part number from yours, and if they're the same, I'll send you one for free. Even if you don't need one in the end it's always good to have a spare!

Clip a small crocodile clip to the fuse leg you're soldering. It'll shunt the heat away and protect the fuse as long as you don't take more than a couple of seconds.

According to the Haynes Golf manual (for all models since 1987): Yellow: 1.8 bar (normally open) Blue/white: 0.3 bar (normally closed)

My friend has just told me a story about Corrado spoilers... Back in 1990 he had a not-very-old Mk2 Golf GTI, which he crashed into a stationary car at a set of lights while watching the retracting spoiler on the Corrado in the next lane. Automatic spoilers cause accidents...ban 'em all!

£1800...holy cow. I'd be hard pressed to part with that much cash for an entire car, let alone a respray! Still, if you're serious about your motors then I can understand it.

Just for the record, I definitely DO NOT drive my Corrado because of its power!

The spoiler moves up and into the airflow. I'm pretty sure you've got your facts backwards. I have seen the figure for spoiler-assisted downforce quoted somewhere but I can't remember it off the top of my head. I can remember it being higher than I expected though. I've never really viewed the spoiler as anything other than a marketing gimmick myself...but it worked on me.

If you can find a good A4 TDI for less than a grand I'll have one too :)

Why the heck not? It's charged by the alternator on the car, the same as any other battery, so why can't it be charged the same off the car? There's nothing on the Optima site (that I can see) to suggest what you're saying is true. What's your source for this information?

To be honest, it probably did more harm to the US Air Force due to the friendly fire incident.

Where in Norfolk do you live? I'm pretty sure I'd remember that 'plate (if not that car) if I'd ever seen it!