bcstudent

*twiddles thumbs*

Yellow goes to the 1.8 bar switch (white) Blue/black goes to the 0.3 bar switch (dark brown) Are you sure your sender is black? What pressure does it have stamped in the casing? * EDIT * Beaten to it :)

They can't possibly cash a cheque in your name. I smell a rat.

It's all in your head, I'm sure. Forward-facing cameras can't do anything that may be seen as distracting.

That's not completely true. Some 1.8s 'pink' when run on unleaded and some don't. Mine has standard ignition components and timing but runs fine on unleaded. I can't even notice a power difference between standard unleaded and higher-octane unleaded. My mate's Mk2 16v was the same but another mate's Corrado needed a K-Star to stop it pinking.

I think it just needs stripping and lubricating. My sunroof hasn't seen a drop of grease since I bought the car. I'm not really one for preventative maintenance.

I'd agree. 2.0 16v for me too, mainly due to the simplicity and ease of maintenance.

So, just for the record, ABS brake bleeding with ignition on or off? I have no idea what goes on inside an ABS pump.

Mine does EXACTLY the same. It was fine before the winter but appears to dislike the cold weather and has gone on strike.

This image must have appeared in a dozen threads by now, but...

I know a guy with a Renault 5 fitted with some cheesy side exit exhaust. People think his exhaust has fallen off because it sounds like it has and there's still an empty cut-out in the rear bumper. The black soot up the sill and door is nice too; it adds that extra touch of class.

The glow plugs are only likely to be an issue if the engine is a pain to start from cold. Any running problems post-start could well be the injectors since good fuel atomisation is critical in diesel engines. If the injectors have done over 100k miles then they're probably due for a change. I'm not familiar with the transit engine but being normally aspirated keeps things simple! A compression test may be a good place to start also. My mate bought a cheap non-direct injection turbo diesel Land Rover a while ago, which ran rough and was a pain to start. It turned out that it had four cracked pistons. I doubt this is your problem but if you can eliminate the basic engine from the equation there's only really the injectors, the diesel pump or the diesel pump timing left to test!

I'll keep an eye (or ear) open for you on the mean streets of Norfolk :)

I've never had to bleed the brakes on an ABS-equipped car before but I can half remember reading that they should be done with the ignition on. Is that true?

Man, that's awesome. What a street sleeper. Respect due to the driver also. logicaltuning's link didn't work for me, but this one did.

Cooooool :) Sorry. Not much help!

That's what you should be getting - an infinite resistance reading means the switch is an open circuit.

A second opinion may not be as daft as it sounds. A friend's Corrado was recently at a garage for a cold-running fault. The garage told her that the engine was knackered and needed replacement. It turned out to be running very lean.

If you lost main and dipped beams but the sidelights still work then the uprated loom is probably a good place to start. I have no idea how it's wired though as I made my own. What fuse ratings are used in the loom?

Ok, the 16v may not be all that quick but there's a lot to be said for a car with so few components in the fuel/ignition system. Especially when fault finding is required!

I hear ya' Supercharged. No worries. One thought is that maybe the switch is fine but the wiring isn't. If someone can provide the pin assignments then maybe testing the switch state at the ECU would be an idea. The next thing to test is either the thermo-time switch or, alternatively, remove the cold start valve from the inlet manifold and check that it's operating correctly when the engine's cold. You can test it with a warm engine by disconnecting the white temperature switch to simulate a cold engine. If that all checks out...how handy are you with a multimeter Neil? I've got the Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management book that gives details of all differential pressure regulator mixture enrichment tests that may shed some light.

As I said in the other thread... On the 2.0 16v it's not a sender, it's a switch. 0.03 Ohms was just the resistance of the switch contacts and the multimeter leads including any calibration error in the meter itself. The result shows that the switch is closed when the engine is warm. Let the engine cool and check that the switch opens. If the switch is open when cold it's likely to be functioning correctly.

Probably not the place for this, but NICE PIC PHATVR6!

That's more or less it, but you may find a ball-joint splitter is easier than smacking seven bells out of the wishbone. The forked type aren't very expensive and work very well.

Keep us informed. I'd be interested to know what the results of your insurance quest are. I've had a few good surprises in the past. It may be your lucky day.