bcstudent

If the 2.0 16v has the same two-pump setup as the 1.8 16v, then I'd expect so. I'm pretty sure some Corrado's have a single pump system though.

There's a link to that site on page three. The prices STORM 2 was quoted are a bit lower. I'm still interested in an RT-S4.2 as part of a group buy.

The RT-R4.2 appears to have the +ve and -ve terminals reversed, which may be why it's a non-stock item. The RT-S4.2 is the same battery in the standard configuration. Is there a reason you want the reversed-terminal version?

Yes. You'll may live to regret not allowing for easy access to the fuel pump and sender if you block that cover!

I bought my Corrado (on 102k miles) shortly before I quit my high-mileage job in 2003. I put 5000 miles on it three months and had no breakdowns of any kind. I'm now doing less than 4000 miles a year in the car and it feels more second-hand every time I use it. It felt happier when I was using it all the time.

A short circuit in the rear cluster is a good candidate. Disconnect the rear passenger-side main cluster and see if the problem goes away.

The handling and ride in my Corrado have noticeably gone to pot recently. I think this is the next job for me too since it's the cheapest on the list!

Crikey, that's a high ratio. I'm sure my mother's 2003 Leon Cupra (180bhp) is doing 2400rpm at 60mph in 6th.

Still twiddling?

If it's anything like the setup on my old Mk2 GTI 8v, which also used a circlip, you'll need something along the lines of the 'special tool' to pull the diff output shaft through the driveshaft flange far enough to get the circlip on. The tool VW use is an 18mm-ish square bar that's a little longer than the flange diameter. There's a hole drilled through the centre large enough to pass a 10mm threaded rod through with a nut on one end. The idea is that the threaded rod is first screwed into the diff output shaft. The nut is then wound down to pull the driveshaft through the flange using the bar as a lever against the flange. It's fiddly to get the circlip on but there's enough room behind the bar. That's if it's the same at the 8v GTI setup... On my 16v Corrado there is no circlip and the flange is tapered. It required a good beating to get it on the diff output shaft.

Find someone that knows their arse from theier elbow for a start! I don't know about you lot, but I wouldn't dare touch something as sacred as someone's car unless I knew exactly what I was doing. It's frightening that these people are in 'business'.

Red = 12v Brown = Gnd Blue = Illumination (12v when light switch is on) Make sure you test the connections with a multimeter before you dive in there though.

The temperature sender mentioned above is probably seperate from the MFA oil temp and water temp gauge senders. It is on the 9A engine but I'd have to check on the KR to be sure.

Replacing the timing belt and tensioner is critical in this situation, unless it's reasonably new. However, £50 seems a few quid over the top of the price of the parts. There shouldn't be any extra labour charge as the old timing belt is already off and they have to reset the timing anyway - the only extra work is the one bolt for the tensioner, which probably got taken off before they sent the head off.

I'll never return to 17'' wheels on the Corrado after getting hold of a set of Sebrings. The 17s just destroyed the ride and handling to a point where I didn't actually want to drive the car.

The problem with spelling mistakes is they make the search function partially redundant. Apart from that it's all good. I still see no pics...

From the VW workshop manual covering the Corrado KR-engine... CHECKING IDLE SPEED STABILISATION Checking operation Switch ignition on. Control valve must buzz or vibrate. If no buzzing or vibrating can be detected: - Disconnect control valve wiring and check resistance of control valve, Specified: 3.5 - 4.5 Ohms - Disconnect green/red wire from temperature sender located on flywheel-end of the cylinder head and check resistance between the contact and housing, Specified (degrees C/approx. resistance): 0/2500, 10/1500, 20/1000, 30/700, 40/480, 50/350, 60/250, 70/180, 80/130. - Check wiring and connections and, if necessary, renew control unit (located behind dashboard above the relay plate). Is it just an idle problem your car has? Does it drive ok? The fact that the idle doesn't change when the ISV is unplugged is a good indicator I guess. Have you tried cleaning the ISV or tw@tting it with a blunt object? - these are both recognised repair techniques! I have no wiring diagrams for the ISV system but I expect measuring the voltage between the two pins of the disconnected ISV wiring will surfice as a simple power check. There's a bit in the workshop manual about checking regulation and control current if you want that info too. It's more or less what the Mk2 Golf Haynes manual says.

I was talking to someone about this very subject today. I only really use the Corrado in the winter when it's a bit cold and the roads are too lethal to be on the bike. I taxed the car last week and checked the M.O.T. - since August 11th I've done 1900 miles. The thing is the TPF & T policy I've got is £200 a year with unlimited mileage. I doubt it'd be any cheaper with limited mileage.

Temperature sensors £10 each? Really?

It was the price that concerned me the most after reading the £140-mutterings in the other 'fuel but no spark' threads. Hence this thread to find out what he may have bought. The 'crank position sensor' description were his words, not mine. It seems to me that the dealer has sold him a cam position sensor for a coil-pack VR6. Clearly not ideal! The thing is, the fault has been intermittent and has only (so far) happened when cold. There's deffinitely fuel at the rail but no spark when the fault occurs. From what I can gather, it's likely to be either the crank position sensor or the ECU relay causing the problem. Oh yeah, where does the crank position sensor live on the engine?

Firstly, I understand that it's an illegal maneuver. What I don't understand is why exactly. I mean, how is it any harder to check a near-side mirror before changing lanes than it it to check an off-side mirror before changing lanes? I can think of situations where it may be dodgy, like two cars overtaking a middle-lane user on either side. Although that middle-lane user still shouldn't change lane without checking the appropriate mirror first. I must be missing something because I can't see what makes it "damn right stupid and dangerous". Help me out here.

Pah, points and condensors are for girls. You're only 22 for God's sake - you should be all about the digital world! I believe one VAG-COM connector is to power the fault-code reader and the other is for the signal cable.

My mate's 1993 (distributor) Corrado VR6 has just died again. A few weeks ago it stranded him outside another mate's house when it lost it's ability to spark and refused to start when it was time to leave. After a couple of hours of poking and wiggling it became clear the the fuel pump was doing its job but, while it would turn over fine, it failed to start. We pushed it into the drive and left it. A couple of hours later the mate whose house it was tried again and it started. It's been fine until today when it did the same thing again, but this time leaving him stranded at work 20 miles away from home. The RAC recovered the car and suggested the engine speed sensor was at fault (after almost no tests apparently, including no VAG-COM). By the way, it's never hesitated or cut-out whilst driving. It just fails to start sometimes. Anyway, he's ordered what he described to me as a "crank position sensor" for £40. I was under the (possibly misguided) impression that the non-coilpack VR6 had a Hall sensor rather than a crank position sensor. I'd appreciate it if someone in the know could tell me what year of VR6 had what in the way of crank/cam/Hall sensors and what their function is on the car exactly. Thanks in advance.

If it does it all the time I'd get a fuel pressure test done. It could be something stupid like a blocked fuel filter is restricting the flow until the pump can overcome it. From what you've said the garage seem to believe it's an ignition, or at least electrical, fault though. While the 9A ECU is VAG-COM compatible it's code table is very limited I believe.

It's nice when people actually conclude a thread with the cause of the fault. Excellent work, I'm glad it's sorted because if I'm honest I had no idea!