2cc

vwcvr6 that's the auxiliary water pump. IF that's where its leaking, it'll either be from the hose connections or the plastic fitting on the bottom of the pump body. To get at it you'll have to take the end cover off the top of the engine. The pump is held on by two rubber mountings fitted to bracket bolted (3x10mm) to the top chain cover. PM me if you want some pix of it all in bits & how to get it apart.

I have a feeling bristolbaron had one done by a chippy (so now has the pattern) in Corsham, didn't you Baz? He might be able to help, but we're a long way away from you Struan.

You have my sympathy slimtim, the pass side bolt on my valver sheared but I was lucky that it broke at the thread end and I managed to get the wishbone out. Dunno if you can get a hacksaw in the gap, I've a feeling that the bush is too tight a fit for that. But as Steve says, the only way is to drill it out; you can't get at the 'back' of the bolt as it is completely enclosed in the subframe. You might be lucky and get it to shift with a spline key, if not you're in for a long drilling job, get a few good quality, different size, long bits of in case you have to go all the way through the thing. Even on a ramp its a long, tiring job. Can't recall how far in the nut is, but a new bolt will show you. And I reckon you will need to lift the engine to get the sump out the way. It's a good idea to run a tap through the nut before fitting new bolt, can't remember the size - I borrowed one from one of the dealer techies (good man). Take it easy, no point trying to rush this, cos if you trash the nut it's new subframe time! Luck

ah, that'll be some speed bump rallying then :lol:

Dub Style. Yes you MUST support the engine. Then undo the M8 hex screw on underside of front engine mount. Just remove the two 17mm bumper bolts from each side, then you can undo the one 13mm bolts from each side and the cross-member drops off. I can post pix if you want.

should that not read "17 years old-Scooby Imprezza"

Har Har, that's not the half of it. In January I'd had this done: both cv boots both rear bump stops front, mid and rear exhaust boxes £662.97 In Feb there was £146.29 to repaint the back bumper where someone ran into me - only paint damage I'm pleased to say, and I got the money back eventually. It was an expensive front end to my year .

Dub Style, that's your oil cooler that is. Undo the 24mm nut on the front to remove it, you'll probably have to remove the coolant pipes as well to get it off properly but be careful of the transfer pipe coupling above it cos its plastic and easily broken if you stress it. Some pix for ya, in the wrong order I see, must remember to enter them the other way round next time Edit. Oh, now I've posted it the pix are in the right order, but they show other way round in preview. :scratch:

Roger, yes. Guys, an even better product than White Spirit is: "Sticky Stuff Remover" Made by MYKAL. Comes in 250ml. Definitely find it in Focus and probably in similar stores.

Andy I know what you mean. The valver got hit for both PAS pipes on its MOT and service in Weston Super Mare in May 2000, so she was 10 yrs old then on 12385 miles. I just looked up the bill. I was based away from home at the time, so had nowhere to work on it and needed it fixed pdq to get back to work in. It had: MOT test 20,000 ml service (usual oils & bits) Dizzy & arm both front brake hoses brake compensator brake fill & bleed rear discs, bearings, pads osf strut both PAS pipes battery and labour and vat of course For the princely sum of £1009 and 70 pence :shock: Do it myself now, so to quote Nickelback - "Never again" (man that's a great track, even better with my new basslink :) )

Well I might never get spotted in here but just bimbling back through Bradford on Avon and stopped to let a young couple with buggy cross at a mini roundabout . Half way across they slow down and I'm getting the full eye treatment, the C that is not me :lol:. And they stopped and watched me all down the road. Made my day. :luvlove:

Ah cheers veedubbed I just had a feeling in my water that there was something different about the gearing. I'll still try to find definitive answer and post result if I get one.

:cry: :cry: :cry: but I understand

sorry to hear that joe. fortunately I have to get to work first before driving 'my company cars' cu around

Hmm. I have rather nice blue eyes though. Do you think it could be that?

Yeah, its certainly time consuming but it is not 'difficult'. Long as you can afford to take your time and have somewhere to do it (NOT the street) its no big deal. I am actually doing a mega write up at the moment to do clutch and chains, including the whole strip down process to get at them in the first place - plus lots of other stuff I did while I was at it. Hope to have first draft with loads of pix to Dinkus in a couple of days from now.

Yes mate. From what you said you can get the grill off with the bonnet shut, so do that. The slam panel has vertical walls on the inboard sides of the headlamps. The sprung wire which locks the bonnet pin is on the inboard side of this wall so you should be able to lever it (screwdriver/pliers) and release the bonnet pin. Depending on which model you drive, the passengers side radiator air feed shroud covers this area and needs to be removed - two bolts fix it to the radiator side piece, access from the front. Its a tight fit getting an extension socket on to the top bolt. Unfortunately you'll have to pull the bumper forward to get at it. And, of course, the fog/inds wiring will still be connected which will limit how far forwards you can move the bumper. If you are lucky, just undoing the top shroud bolt will enable you to get at the spring. Best I can do. Good luck and keep us posted

supercharged/henny you guys kill me :lol:

that's bad, but heard it quite a lot. I have had run ins with VW UK in the past having problems with back orders from Germany and they were totally CGAS. but have to stand up for my dealers, Bath Motor Services. They are genuinely good guys and interested in my Cs. Only had one problem, which they fixed foc when I took it back feeling rather grumpy; we have mutual respect.

Rats. Just had as look at the list but it only shows s'rack for the VR so still don't know. Anyone?

Nope, thats wrong. Plug 1 should go to your No 5 on the coil pack; and plug 5 should go to your No 1 on the coil pack. ie 1 and 5 need swapping over. Make sense?

Welcome to The Forum Alan (Its got 5 gears you know :D )

moneypit, not sure that I understand you question. What is you want to know and I'll see if I can help?

Personally I'd recommend OE disks all round, OE rear pads and either OE or Pagid F/R on the front (what I'm doing). But pad choice is very much a matter of personal preferance I'm afraid, so you only know by trying them.

Well that looks like the end of your PS pump there Andy, and if the level is down I'd hazard a guess that's what it is - PS fluid. Fortunately my pumps have never leaked (kiss of death) but maybe somebody knows whether they are prone to having a seal let go? Anyone??