corradophil

I've not seen many of Chip's programs, but I have American Hotrod and and American Chopper DVDs. Some of Boyd's cars are amaizing. Does anyone know if/when a series 2 DVD box set will be coming out for American Hotrod?

I bought my copy at WH Smiths. IIRC it has a red E-Type on the front cover, and it does mention the Porsche/Corrado feature.

I bought it yesterday, interesting article about two very nice cars.

I had a Leon Cupra, it was a great car, very capable, suprisingly good handling, pretty nice interior, all the toys you could wish for, and it went well too. I'd imagine the LCR is even better. It's certainly a car I would seriously consider for a replacement to my Corrado. If you can live without the looks and the badge, you could get a Cupra and get it re-mapped. With a 5 hour Revo free trial, my old one went very well, a fair bit quicker than standard. You can get early ones from around £3500. Have a look at http://www.seatcupra.net, there is tons of info on there.

Get super briliance ir vision plus bulbs and fit now for a quick improvement, then uprate the loom asap.

I made up a loom as I had all the bits in the garage, that alone made a huge difference. I then fitted Philips Vision plus bulbs which improved things a bit more. The headlights on my Corrado are now superb when dipped or on main beam.

D90s and Azev A are 2 of my favourites. I had a set of D90s refurbed and ready to go on, but had to sell them to fund the purchase of a flat. I sometimes really like my wheels, and other times don't, but I do like the fact that I never see another car with a set.

You got G60mm pads, they are thicker than 16v ones. I think yours should be 16mm thick!

Best car, run about, hobby, pain in the arse and my pride and joy all in one. Did have two cars for a year, but couldn't justify the costs.

I was under the impression that MK3 GTI's both 8v and 16v were 280mm, and VR6's were 288mm. My calipers and carriers were on a GTI, definately not a VR6.

I've got callipers and carriers from a Mk3 Golf in a breakers, they have screw in fittings (drilled & tapped hole in the calliper) which is identical to the original 256mm 16v callipers. I'm using these on a 280mm G60 (4 stud) disc with G60 pads. Originaly I had the old rubber flexi hoses, then later I changed to Goodridge ones.

I'd suggest either an engine hoist or a support beam which sits on the wing flanges where the mounting bolts are, and goes accross the engine. Whatever method you use, make sure it is all secure and capable of supporting the weight, you don't want the engine and gearbox dropping on you.

They're great aren't they, its funny, you meet a nice looking girl who doesn't wear white stiletto's, then she opens her mouth and ruins everything. Have you thought of taking the same photo, but with your Corrado in it? Would be cool, being 40 years on.

That is a stunning view. You don't get much scenery or snow like that in Essex.

Jim, The switch is mounted on the underneath of the throttle body and is protected by a heat shield which attaches with a couple of screws, if you want to have a look at the switch iteself the throttle body needs to be removed. You can see the plug for it mounted to the front face of the throttle body. The clicking you mention sounds correct, so at least it is doing something, the next step is to get a metre on it and make sure it is opperating correctly, i.e. not staying in one setting - open or closed circuit. At idle it should be closed circuit and allow current to pass through it, just off idle after it has clicked, it should be open circuit.

The ISV operates in an idle situation, which may not be happening if the switch is not working/working correctly. It's so easy to check, that it needs to be done, even if it just eliminates one more thing that could be causing problems.

Can't remember if it has been mentioned, but have you checked the microswitch on the throttle body is working and correctly positioned? If it isn't the ECU does not know the car is at idle. First easy check is to pop the bonnet and just open the throttle slightly - around 1mm off it's stops. You should be able to hear the switch click. It's well worth removing the throttle body and checking the switch functions with a metre, and also setting the switch position so it operates at the correct point.

I've got the same thread on Club GTI, with a pole. Similar comments really, Mintex are ok, but not much better than std, Ferodo DS are great, and Black Diamonds are good. Pretty tempted to go the DS route. Someone also suggested Pagid RS, anyone tried them?

Suzy Perry is pretty damn nice, better than VBH nowadays. Wouldn't complain if they were both in my bed though :-P

I used to like her, but time isn't doing her any favours.

Since converting my front brakes from 256mm to 280mm I have regretted my choice of brake pads. I noticed very little improvement over the original set up. I used Zimmerman drilled G60 discs and Pagid FR pads. The pads are about worn out so I am now faced with deciding which ones to go for. My car only gets road use, no track days, but I do drive it pretty hard when conditions allow. What I would like is more initial bite and good fade resistance. I've narrowed my choice down to three options: 1. Ferodo DS. 2. Ferodo standard pads from Halfords. 3. Mintex M1144.

Big improvement, that is one very nive looking C, still really like the Porsche wheels too.

I can't make any guatantees, for anyone else, but firstly it is the same basic idle adjustment as in a K-Jet car, but rather than just using a CO metre it is setting it back to where it should be from factory. Cannot see how you can do a actual damage unless you apply pressure via the allen key on screw adjuster, or rev the engine with the allen key in place. All I can say is, I set mine this way after carefull reading of the instructions, and the emmisions at the last mot were as follows. Fast Idle CO 0.05% vol HC 21ppm vol Lambda 1.001 Natural idle Co 015% It runs very well set using this method. I think the risk is down to how much care is taken when setting it up, as with all things if you're unsure, either confirm the correct procedure, or get someone who knows what they're doing to do it.

Right here we go, this is the scan from the manual for setting the idle Co on a 9a with KE-Motronic. You only need items 29 - 37 under the heading "KE-Motronic system". You will need a digital multimeter to measure the current, you'll have to make up some cables to allow the multimeter to be introduced into the circuit and finally you will need a long allen key to turn the adjustment screw (Not sure what size it is, but I can measure mine when I get home). The Differential Pressure Regulator (DPR) is on the side of the airbox towards the front of the car and faces to the centre of the engine bay - it would be much easier if I had a photo or diagram, but could find one, and not had a chance to get the camera out. The DPR has one electrical plug connected to it. I'm sure it will be clear once under the bonnet.

Lippy, :? Somehow this thread has hidden from me since my last post which was 20th September, I've been on here almost every day since then! I'll get the relavent pages scanned and uploaded!