corradophil

Exactly, mine had the same symptoms and I sorted them by rebuilding the switch.

My mate does, he loves his camper, it is his work van/car and hobby.

My damper let go a few months ago, I looked into getting a new one, but VW want around £60+vat, so mine is now running without it.

I think maybe he will replace the big end shells which failed and try it, if it is no good I think he'll cut his losses and start from scratch. They've been in there for a minimum of 90k miles, I don't know the history of the car before that, so maybe they're older than that.

I'll have a look, I have posted this on there too. The bottom end has been untouched for at least 90,000 miles. Makes me wish I'd checked the all the bearing cap bolt torques on mine when I changed the sump gasket a couple of months ago.

I mate who owns my old MK2 8v GTI (PB engine) has just had a complete loss of oil pressure and the usual bottom end knocking that goes with it :( When he removed the sump one of the big end bearing cap bolts was loose :shock: One bearing shell had spun round and was overlapping the other. There is some scoring and pitting to the inside surface of the cap. He's now got the dilema of whether it is worth putting new big end and main bearing shells in and hoping it works, or probably more likely put an engine from a breakers in. Anyone else had this happen and got away with just new shells? The crank appears to be undamaged.

That looks really clean, good job you bought it back.

Welcome back to the fastest valver in the world :wink:

Still 1%, but you have another vote.

One of my mates has a very nice T25, which is a 2.0 flat 4 watercooled, that'll do about 90mph, once you are used to it, it drives very nicely. Another mate had a T25 with a straight 4 watercooled Turbo Diesel, basicaly the same as what you would get in a Golf. I think it was a 1.6, but that accelerated faster than the petrol and the Turbo sounded great. If I was going to get one, I'd be very tempted to get the Diesel - Better fuel economy and more usable power.

Keep both? Winter and summer wheels. I have a similar dilema at the moment, my Azevs are rare, only seen them on one other car, which happened to be a Green Corrado too, so I like that because they are individual, sometimes I think they are really nice, other days I don't. I have a set of freshly refurbed D90s in the garage with brand new Pirellis and hub adapters, all they need is a dust off and fitting, but not sure what to do now. As the Porsche wheels are on, I'd wait for a month and see how you feel then, when the novelty and "new haircut feeling" has passed, you will be far better placed to make the right decission. Either way both wheels are very nice and suit the car, so you cant loose really.

Ooh yes, Porsche flat 6 is the way to go, lots of power, related to VW and they sound awsome. Never liked the sound of scooby flat 4s, to me they sound like a straight 4 running on 3 cylinders.

My valver is definately louder than standard with the Magnex. L33RRR, The Corrado is looking really good, shows what can be done with a bit of effort.

No, it doesn't necessarily mean you bought a shed. As for being a big job, it depends what tools and ability you have, I did mine comfortably in 2 hours, but I have loads of tools and have waisted half my life messing around with cars. You need to remove to drain the engine oil, remove the sump, then carefully unclip the windage tray (Black plastic tray) if you have one, and two bolts to remove the pick up. Definately worth reading up in a Haynes manual about oil pump removal to give you a good idea of the job if you plan on doing it yourself. If you are confident in being able to do it, you will also need a gallon of oil, oil filter and a sump gasket, all of which can be bought from GSF for under £25. The ticking could just be noisy lifters, it s worth getting the oil pressure checked before doing loads of work i.e. make sure there is an oil pressure problem, rather than a dodgy pressure sender.

If its done many miles, it is worth removing and cleaning the oil pump pick up strainer. At 160,000 miles mine was around 50% blocked. My engine is spottless inside and has a well documented history, no expense was spared by it's previous owners. By clearing this I got around 1Bar extra oil pressure at idle. If your oil light is coming on, plus the buzzer it sounds like you have low oil pressure, so its well worth looking into a bit more. Ideally put a pressure gauge on the engine to check the pressure. It could also just be a dodgy sender, but better to be safe than sorry. Coincedently a mate has just ran his Mk2 GTI with the oil light and buzzer on, now it sounds like someone emptied their tool box into the engine. - Not good.

Yes, you now have to pay, it was good while it lasted.

I think I will leave it! Got more important things to attened to like the sunroof.

Mine does not have the viscous compling pully. It's just a single steel pulley separate to the water pump one. Hmmm, I think I'll leave it for the time being, and worry about it when it gets worse. The fluid level is fine, so appart from that I'm not sure what else I can do.

I know the one you mean, pretty sure mines not like that, but I will have a look and post what I find on here.

Mine has new bushes all round, and still clonks, particularly under load, but it sounds like the rack to me. More worrying is the occasional whine mine has started to make when cold, like two bits of metal rubbing hard against each other and some vibration through the steering wheel. In fact it sounds just like a wooden chair being dragged on a hard floor, with similar vibrations. :?

Your joking, they are stopping top gear for a load men to get drunk in a pub whilst watching a load of other men running around a field :roll: I think I may as well not watch tv or listen to the radio for the next month, all anyone talks about at the moment is big brother or football, and I have no interest in either.

I enjoy top gear, it is very entertaining. Quite a few people I know who are not interested in cars watch it too. I always watch fifth gear which to me is the new old top gear. American hotrod is excellent in my opinion, unfortunately I don't have sky, but I bought the first series on DVD, not sure if they are going to release the second series, but I would definately buy that too. One other progam I really like is Grand Designs. I can watch Big Brother for about 5 minutes, before getting very bored.

Looks like a good job so far. Make sure you rub it down with a hard block. As soon as you see an island of metal start to appear in the filler stop and give it a gentle tap with a hammer, then continue rubbing untill you get the shape right. The metal high spot is far harder than the filler, so it needs to be knocked in, if you keep sanding you will never lose the high spot. Get the shape right, ignore low areas from trapped air in the filler, you can always fill them with the next wipe of filler. Give it a good blow off between applying filler to ensure all dust is removed. You should be able to get that ready to prime in 2 or 3 wipes of filler. Make sure you run your hand over the repair to feel for any highs or lows. To blend the edge of the lacquer we always used to use thinners (2 pack when using 2 pack paint). Just mist it around the edge. It will come back to a good finish once flatted and polished.

Don't know if anything is broken, but my get to the bottom with a bang.

I'm using the serial version of vag-com too. I tried the USB version and got nowhere. I've remembered a 4th item, which is a small jumper conection on the adapter which you can change the settings with. I'll look into that over the weekend. I have also emailed the supplier of the adapter who was very knowledgable and helpful when I bought it, so hopefully he will provide some more clues.