corradophil

100mA with ignition on, but engine not running, if negative swap positive and negative cables on around on meter to pass the current the in the opposite direction. Then start the engine and adjust mixture until it fluctuates between 0-5mA whilst engine is running. Once complete, don't forget to connect the hoses you disconnected.

Disconnect the breather from the front of the block. Disconnect the small hose going to the valve at the rear of the airbox. This is approx 5mm dia, and you will need to disconnect the electrical connection to get easier access. Once the hose is disconnected, re-connect the electrical connection. Connect an ammeter in series with the differential pressure regulator (electrical connection on the engine side of the airbox) Switch ignition on, the current should be between 90mA and 110mA. If it is a negative reading, swap the +ve and -ve ammeter connections around to get a +ve reading. Start the engine and alow to settle for 30-60 secs. The ammeter reading should be fluctuating. The allowable range of the fluctuation is 0-5mA. If the ammeter reads out of this range adjust the mixture screw to get it within the acceptable range. Adjust a little at a time and wait for 30-60 secs for the ammeter reading to settle. As for vagcom, I think I use Version 406 on my 93 2.0 16v. Do a search for it, I know RW1 posted the correct info for connecting vagcom to the 9A corrado.

Ok, thanks.

Where did you get the 4 branch from? What make is it? 4 branch manifolds which fit a rhd, 16v with power steering seem to be pretty rare.

It might have it, but my guess from the advert is that it only includes the driver for the cable.

That all looks correct to me. You will still need to download a copy of vag-com, available from Ross-tech's site as a shareware basic version for free.

Assuming it does not damage the ECU, and works correctly, the final concern is that the ignition and fueling are correct for the engine. If the ignition timing is too advanced you will get pinking or pre-ignition, which can cause some major damage to the engine, by basically firing too early and trying to push the piston back down before passing top dead centre. If the ignition timing is too retarded you will loose power and efficiency. The fueling has to be correct, too lean and temperatures in the combustion chamber will be increased causing possible serious damage, too rich and it will use loads of fuel and damage the cat if you have one fitted.

The map should be written to suit the engine, not the other way round. I'm not saying it won't work, but if you want to safely tweak the fueling and ignition, the best way would be to get a custom map specificaly for your engine.

I live about 30mins away from them, so I've been there quite a few times,, and never had any problems.

Great to see a Corrado getting this much care and attention, when so many others are being broken for spares, because they are worth more that way. Looking forward to seeing the photos of it painted.

:censored: I really hope you get it back. Walesy, what did you do when you woke up, with them going through your jeans??? I asume you were not wearing them at the time :camp:

I can understand and accept the low speed limits in villages, but once out of them and away from pedestians etc it is very frustrating. You are spot on about everyone being stuck behind the pensioner doing 40. That describes my average journey perfectly. The only good time to drive is late at night.

One of my local B roads has been dropped from 60 to 50, and a 40 zone extended. Also one of the few straight sections now has no overtaking signs. The government/council are totally obsessed with slowing traffic down to a snails pace. :hitler: What really is annoying, is that I have written to the council to highlight a potential dangerous situation caused by a refuse truck running along a very busy route at peak traffic times, stopping at every house, which everyone tries to pass to get on with their journey, and the council are not in the slightest bit interested. It appears to me that safety is not their highest priority :shrug: I hate to think what things will be like in 10 years time :epicfail:

Excellent news another Corrado back to it's former owner. I sold mine after 5 years of ownership, and 2 years later (Jan 09) I bought it back :D It is actually today's forum header :clap: I plan to never sell it again.

Fuel supply pipe between the main fuel pump and the accumulator... Not sure what else you could call it. Got to be a VW only part. Have a look on vagcat.com to try and identify the part, description and part number.

Once out I stuck mine all 3 into their holes, so they're nice and solid now.

Just replaced mine and had the same problem. Had to clamp some small mole grips on the end of the stud to hold it whilst undoing the nut. The other end of it has a coarse thread which screws into the plastic housing for the matrix.

Petition signed. I'm really fed up with the government :hitler: :salute: limiting what everyone is allowed to do. If we keep going this way, all British citizens will be curfewed, and only allowed out of their homes after 7pm if they apply for a special licence, which will obviously cost a lot of money. Driver standards should be increased, rather than adjusting laws to suit the worst drivers.

That will be fine, it is purely to adapt to different plugs - no electronics.

:lol: I've just emailed VW about it, I wonder what they will say.

Maybe we should flood their website with complaints that the Corrado is missing from the timeline. They won't forget us then.

If the fault is not there when the car is stationary, and only appears when the car moves, I would say that the sensors and wiring are fine. Did you measure the gap between the sensor and the reluctor (slotted) ring? This gap is critical. I've had problems in the past with ABS throwing a wobbly when the gap was incorrect. IIRC the gap should be 0.8mm, but please check this before you start setting the gap on the car, as it was a long time ago when I last set it up.

If they are small rust spots, I assume you will be touching them in with a paint brush, not spraying. Keep the repairs as small as possible. Once touched in leave the paint to harden. If it was me I'd leave it for a week. If you have a high spot this can be carefully dressed back using 1200 or 1500 wet and dry. Be very carefull to only rub the lacquer you have put on. It is very easy to rub the through the surrounding paint leaving you with more repair work to be done. The aim is to build up the colour so it is just lower than the surrounding factory finished paint. Then apply lacquer to the base coat and build it up to the finished level. It is likely that the lacquer you put on will sit high, so this needs to be dressed back as described above. Below I've illustrated the effect you will probably get. It is usefull to use something as a rubbing block when dressing the lacquer back because this will allow it to be rubbed to a flat finish - not uneven and rounded because your finger tip will distort to the shape of the lacquer. -------- Uneven lacquer to be dressed back ------ ------------- --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Lacquer --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Base coat (colour) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Primer ______________________________________________________ Metal Perfecting this process may take a few goes - so you should find a descrete repair to start with, and get it right before starting the others. Once you are happy with the repair, you wil be left with a dull patch where you dressed it back, need to polish this with a compouns such as Farecla G3. If you don't have this T-Cut will work too. Hopefully this will help you with the theory, but you will need to be patient and allow plenty of time to practice it. It is unlikely that you will get a perfect finish, but you should be able to tidy and protect the areas which have rusted, and it should look better than rust, plus it should not cost much.

You need to remove every last little bit of rust. Blasting is best, but not really a suitable thing for you. Another good way to remove it is using rotary wire brush attachments in an electric drill - be warned though, it can he hard to control the positioning of it accurately. In the past, I have succesfully used a dremmel with various grinding stones and small wire brush attachments to completely remove rust spots. I have also used white smoothrite as a primer. Rust can come from both sides of the panel, in which case you may end up with a hole. This is most likely on rear wheel arches, or anywhere which is double skinned.

You've been busy. Funny how it looks black - for a moment I thought it was a different car. :lol: