corradophil

Phil K, What year is yours? Will it need a cat to pass emmisions on the mot? If it does K-Jet may be a problem. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress with it. Your C looks cool in the photo by the way.

How cool are they?? Really have a soft spot for American muscle cars.

For reference I reset my mfa and filled my car to the brim, I then ran it till nearly empty, and logged the miles covered and fuel used. I then calculated the mpg. My mfa on the long term setting read 1mpg lower than I calculated. IIRC the mfa said 29.8 and I made it 31.

I'd check the basics first, i.e. spark plug condition and gap, HT lead, rotor arm, dizzy cap. Basically check there is no obvious damage. I know you are not descibing a missfire, but its easy stuff to check first, without spending any money. When you are happy with that, I would go for ignition timing next as a check, and adjust if required. There is also a procedure for setting the fuel mixture correctly, which I carried out on mine, which runs and starts perfectly. If you want to give it a go I can scan the page in the manual and upload it for you. My emmisions on the mot were spot on after setting it up using this method. As far as the idling goes, apart from the usual isv cleaning, I would check the switch on the bottom of the throttle body is operating correctly. If it is not, the ECU won't know the engine is at idle and the isv won't operate. These are all things you can do, without spending money, so I'd start with them first.

Mines on 178,000 miles, doing 50-60 miles per day and still going strong. I went through a period of replacing everything, and now it's ok, although I've just had to replace an abs sensor, but that was only £30 and 30 mins work, so not the end of the world. I'd write down a list of all the usual parts which fail on any car with high milage, then cross out the items you have already sorted. You'll then have a rough idea of what is left which you could expect to go wrong in the future. The list of remaining items should paint a clear picture of whether it is worth carrying on.

I've waited for mine to prime a few times, but only to listen to the pump when I've suspected a fault. Normaly I just put the key in and start it. It always starts straight away without any problems.

Jim, on cold starts do you use any throttle? If not, have you tried it and does it help. I'm wandering if the ISV is a little slow to sort the idle speed out. Smell of fuel, I take it you have checked for fuel leaks? Mine starts on the button whether hot or cold, and normaly revs up to around 1200 rpm before settling to a 900 rpm idle. It sometimes needs a little throttle to get it to start, otherwise it just takes a little more cranking. When mine is cold it does sometimes suffer from flat spots whilst driving slowly at low revs. This only happens in cold weather though.

kerrinmay, How did it go, are they fitted? Any improvement?

My heart says, "Keep the Corrado!". I was in a similar situation, I had my Corrado and a 2000 model Leon Cupra, eventually I sold the Leon because I could not get much for the Corrado. I am missing the Leon quite a bit, because it was no fuss motoring - very easy if a little dull some times. My suggestion would be, sell them both and get a Leon Cupra TDI and get it revo'd. You get the best of both worlds then. A mate has a Leon Cupra TDI and reckons on average being revo'd he loses about 1-2 mpg compared to standard, which means he still gets around 48mpg on a long run, and according to him its now 190bhp and 290Ibft!

I live in Burnham-on-Crouch which is about 30mins South East of Chelmsford. 8)

Mine used to be really twitchy at the back end too, I changed the rear suspension bushes, which helped alot, and also set the ride height up so the rear is about 5mm higher than the front measured from the floor to the top of the wheel arch, this also helped. Now mine handles really well. Whereabouts in Essex are you?

Mines on 166,000 miles and still going strong. Its on it's orginal untouched bottom end. Oil pressure is above the recommended minimum suggesting the bearing shells are in good shape for the mileage. As with any car it is a bit of a gamble, if the car is the right price and everything else is fine it is probably worth the risk, but its worth budgeting for engine work just in case you run in to problems.

I beleive it will, but hopefully somone can confirm it. I'm not so familier with VR6 bits.

I'm not sure, I know some Mk3s had 280mm discs, but I don't know if all them do. It would be worth taking a wheel off and measuring it. Actually, G60 discs are for 4 stud cars, I think your Mk3 Golf will be 5 stud, if so they won't be any use to you.

Standard G60 discs are 280mm diameter.

Sounds like you ended up with the right car then. When I first got mine, it was standard and I was dissapointed with it's performance. Funny thing is, they feel slower than they really are, I can keep up with a Leon Cupra, and yet when I owned one, I would have said the Leon is a fair bit faster.

Looking really good Jim, do you miss the power of G60?

mmmmm Cupra R, I'd love one of those.

On a 30 minute drive to work which is B roads and country lanes, I can get 34mpg if I drive gently. Mine is not standard and most of the time I don't drive it gently, overall I get around 30mpg.

Yes, that is a good point, plus make sure it is connected correctly, with the sender disconnected it reads off the scale. The highest I ever see on mine is 6 bar which is when the engine is cold.

TheWizardofOdds, What engine do you have, I was lucky on my 16v oil cooler there was a spare hole, so screwed the oil pressure sender straight in without the need for a T-piece, although apparently not all 16vs have this spare hole. Have a search on here for the oil pressure sender T-piece, when I was sorting mine I found part numbers in other threads for them, and links to web sites to buy them.

Yep, this is my number one forum too. Very helpful, even in matters which are not related to Corrado's.

I had no problems wiring mine up, you only need to run one cable from the engine bay, which is for the oil pressure sender.

StuartFZR400, It would be interesting to go for a ride on an R1, I'd imagine that would be a fair bit quicker than a 1200 Bandit. Trouble is I've been scared away from bikes now. A couple of people I know have had low speed accidents in the last couple of years which have left them with permanent physical damage. I'm sure you will be impressed by the Porsche, not just by the performance and handling but also by the refinement for such a performance orientated car.

Fastest car I've driven i is an M reg Porsche 911 Carrera 2, I've been a passenger on a fast lap in a Porsche 928 race car which was 450bhp. I used to work for someone who owned a 2wd Sierra Saphire Cosworth, That was quickish, but a little dissapointing. A mate has just bought a Subara WRX which should go well once re-mapped. My fastest car is either my Corrado 162bhp 152Ibft or a Seat Leon Cupra, which would've been revo'd if I kept it. The Leon felt quicker, but I can keep up with a friends one, so they are probably pretty close. Another freind has a Leon Cupra TDI which is revo'd, that really pushes you back into your seat, I've not checked, but he says it should be 190bhp and 290Ibft. I've been on a couple of Suzuki Bandits as a passanger, the first was a 600, which was nowhere near as fast as I expected, the other is a 1200, which went quite well, my mate managing to get the front wheel hovering through 1st and 2nd and caining it up to 130mph before slowing for the next bend, I think the 911 would give that a run for it's money though.