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According to Bentley Manual. ENGINE Camshaft & intermediate shaft sprockets, torque setting for both 65Nm (48 ft.Ib) Intermediate shaft oil seal housing 25Nm (18 ft.Ib) Cam belt tensioner 45Nm (33 ft.Ib) Camshaft bearing caps 15Nm (11 ft.Ib) Cam cover bolts 10Nm to 12Nm (7 to 10 ft.Ib) Water pump pulley 20Nm (15 ft.Ib) Crankshaft x4 allen key bolts 20Nm (15 ft.Ib) Crankshaft front main oil seal housing M8 bolts 20Nm (15 ft.Ib) M6 bolts 10Nm to 12Nm (7 to 10 ft.Ib) Sump bolts 20Nm (15 ft.Ib) Crankshaft rear main oil seal housing M8 bolts 20Nm (15 ft.Ib) M6 bolts 10Nm to 12Nm (7 to 10 ft.Ib) ************* ************* Crankshaft main bolt (Lubricated) 6 sided bolt with washer 180 Nm (137 ft.Ib) Hex head bolt with washer 150Nm (111 ft.Ib) 12 sided bolt with collar (no washer) 90 Nm (66 ft.Ib) + 180° (half turn) ************* ************* LUBRICATION Engine oil low pressure range Switch opens from 0.5 to 0.45 bar (2.1 to 6.4 PSI) Manual says 0.3 bar is normal. Low oil pressure switch (brown 0.3 bar) Also you can get the blue one below. (Blue 0.4 bar) Part number 028 919 081H *************** Engine oil high pressure range Switch closes from 1.6 to 2.0 bar (23.2 to 29 PSI) Manual says 1.8 bar is normal. High pressure oil sensor switch (white 1.8 bar) Part number 056 919 081 Oil pressure switch torque settings 25Nm (18 ft.Ib) This is from the Bentley manual but me personally I'd say 15 ft.Ib is enough so be careful when tightening the oil pressure switches. Normal operation of oil pressure switch. When the ignition is turned on the oil warning light may flash meaning no oil pressure. Once the engine is started oil pressure should rise which opens the switch = opening the ground/earth circuit and turning the oil warning light off. When you have too low oil pressure or have a faulty switch, the oil warning light will flash or stay on, plus you might have a warning alarm buzz from your dash. Also manual says on the 16v engines that they have extra oil pray nozzles attached to base of cylinder bores, these nozzles open up at oil pressure above 3.5 bar (50 PSI) Oil temp sender Part number 049 919 563A Normally fits in back of head the side facing exhaust manifold, on top left for 9A & ABF But the KR might be on the oil filter housing. ********************************* CYLINDER HEAD Cylinder head torque settings 16v Stage 1) 40Nm (30 ft.Ib) Stage 2) 60Nm (44 ft.Ib) Stage 3) + 180° (half turn) or you can do this as two 90° turns = 180° NOTE= Always use new head bolts as they are stretch bolts Cylinder head face warpage maximum 0.1mm (.0004 in) Anymore then this and there's a possibility your head gasket may not seal. Head gasket should be the metal compression genuine VW one, as the 16v can have high compression, the other cheap pattern gaskets don't last as long. Cylinder head minimum thickness 118.1mm (4.650 in) measure the thickness of the head between where the valve cover sits and cylinder head face. Valve seat dimensions Intake 31.2mm (1.228 in) Exhaust 27.6mm (1.087 in) Valve seat angle Inlet 45° Exhaust 45° Valve head diameter Inlet 32mm (1.259 in) Exhaust 28mm (1.102 in) Valve stem diameter Inlet 6.97mm (.2744 in) Exhaust 6.94mm (.2732 in) Valve lengths Inlet 95.50mm (3.760 in) Exhaust 98.20mm (3.866 in) Valve face angle Inlet 45° Exhaust 45° **************************************** IGNITION Knock sensors KR/ PL torque settings 15 to 25Nm (11 to 18 ft.Ib) Knock sensors 9A torque settings 15 to 20Nm (11 to 15 ft.Ib) Knock sensor 1 is on left Knock sensor 2 is on right Testing value approx 300k ohms Ignition timing setting 6° + or - 1° BTDC Engine ilde speed setting Up to 1990 (700rom to 900rpm) After 1990 (800rpm to 1000rpm) Spark plug torque setting 20Nm (15 ft.Ib) Firing order = 1, 3, 4, 2 Number 1 cylinder is at the cam belt end, number 4 cylinder is closest to distributor. The engine rotates clockwise but the distributor will rotate anticlockwise. Si

I'll try and find as much info as possible for both these engines, and will update on this first/second post. Feel free to add any info that you know and I'll gladly update like I say this first/second post. Si ************************** According to Bentley Manual. FUEL KR & 9A The 4 Banjo bolts for the injector pipes in the fuel distributor are: 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib) Small Banjo bolt for fuel pipe to cold start valve 10Nm (7 ft.Ib) Large Banjo bolts around metering head are 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib) Small Banjo bolts around metering head are 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib) KR engine The same torque settings for large & small Banjo bolts on the fuel pressure regulator that's bolted to front of engine block on (KR) 1.8 16v Large Banjo 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib) Small Banjo 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib) 9A Engine Also the same torque settings for both fuel pipes on the fuel pressure regulator on (9A) 2.0 16v this one is bolted to side of metering head. Large pipe 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib) Small pipe 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib) But this doesn't have Banjo bolts. KR Fuel pressure = 5.2 to 5.6 bar (76 to 81 PSI) 9A Fuel pressure = 6.1 to 6.6 bar (89 to 95 PSI) KR Fuel injector opening pressure 3.0 to 4.1 bar (44 to 59 PSI) 9A Fuel injector opening pressure 3.7 to 4.8 bar (54 to 70 PSI) Retaining clamp for fuel injectors for Corrado 1.8 16v (KR) and 2.0 16v (9A) x4 are fitted. Part number 051 133 556 191 201 373 = Fuel feed pipe from external fuel pump to accumulator. (Possibly still available) 505 201 218A Fuel feed pipe from accumulator to fuel filter. (looks like this is obsolete now) Fuel Accumulator inlet M16 x 1.5mm male thread outlet M14 x 1.5mm male thread Original fuel filter inlet M14 x 1.5 female thread for (Banjo) outlet M12 x 1.5mm female thread for (Banjo) KR Inlet manifold diameter 50mm Torque setting 20Nm (15 ft.Ib) 9A Inlet manifold diameter 42mm Torque setting 20Nm (15 ft.Ib) KR engine HP 1989 to 1991 (139BHP) MK2 Golf 1990 to 1992 (136BHP) Corrado 9A engine HP Passat / Corrado 1992 to 1995 (134BHP to 136BHP) Video of the fuel system

According to the Bentley Manual, the 4 Banjo bolts for the injector pipes in the fuel distributor are: 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib) Large Banjo bolts around metering head are 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib) Small Banjo bolts around metering head are 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib) Plus are the same torque settings for large & small Banjo bolts on the fuel pressure regulator that's bolted to front of engine block on (KR) 1.8 16v Large Banjo 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib) Small Banjo 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib) Also the same torque settings for both fuel pipes on the fuel pressure regulator on (9A) 2.0 16v this one is bolted to side of metering head. Large pipe 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib) Small pipe 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib) But this doesn't have Banjo bolts. Hope this helps Si

I've just found an old thread from 2013, the guy who started it was having similar issues to what you have, basically it turned out that his valve timing was out by a tooth or two, plus needed the distributor to be set correctly, plus had an issue with his idle control valve. Here's the link below, have a read through it of his symptoms. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?80030-9a-issue-with-timing-next-issue Hope this helps Si

I've just had a quick read through the Bentley Manual for the (9A) 16v engine, it'll be similar for the (KR) 16v. Basically it doesn't give any torque settings for the oil pressure switches. The OEM switches from new normally had a small amount of red or yellow thread lock on the centre of thread, you normally screw the oil pressure switch in by hand until it stops on the front edge of thread lock, you possibly might be able to just still turn it by hand another 1/4 or 1/2 turn, then it'll be too tight to turn by hand, so you'll need a spanner or ratchet and socket to tighten up properly, when using the spanner or ratchet it should start of really easy to turn the oil pressure switch, then as soon as you feel any slight resistance go easy. For me personally I'd say (12 to 15 ft.Ib) max for the oil pressure switch, do not tighten anymore then that. Oil filter housing bolts 25 Nm (18 ft.Ib) Oil cooler retaining nut 25 Nm (18 ft.Ib) Also says on the 16v engines that they have extra oil pray nozzles attached to base of cylinder bores, these nozzles open up at oil pressure above 3.5 bar (50 PSI) Regarding the oil filter, make sure both surfaces are clean on oil filter housing face and oil filter sealing rubber ring, then smear small amount of oil or grease over oil filter sealing rubber ring, when refitting oil filter screw on by hand gently until it stops, then grip oil filter tightly and turn 3/4 to 1 full turn max, don't tighten anymore then that. REMEMBER to smear a small amount of oil or grease on the oil filter sealing rubber ring, or you'll never be able to remove your filter next time. Si

I think on the 8v GTI MK2 Golf you can have the distributor out by 180°, but it'll run like a bag of nails or won't run at all. Also you can have the valve timing out by 180° where the cam shaft pulley is out by half a turn, but the engine still runs just but like a bag of nails. I don't think you can have the valve timing out by 180° on the 16 engine as the valves will hit the pistons I think. But you can have the camshaft pulley out of alignment by 1 or 2 teeth, and it'll still run but can affect idle and torque when driving. Si

The firing order should be 1,3,4,2 The engine rotates clockwise but the distributor will rotate anticlockwise. Number one cylinder is at the cam belt end, number 4 cylinder is closest to the gearbox or distributor. According to the Bentley Manual for the 9A engine the idle speed should be 800rpm to 1000rpm at normal running temperature = 80° to 87°C Using a ignition timing strobe light, timing should read 6° + or - 1° Correct torque settings for spark plugs is 20Nm (15 ftIb) Engine RPM limit is 5800rpm Once engine is set with correct ignition timing from 5° to 7° (Factory setting is 6° + or - 1° The ECU will then Keep the set timing within range, by using the two knock sensors bolted to front of engine block, and the pick up sensor that's connected to number 4 HT lead. Also states that the timing can NOT be set / adjusted when idle is not normal at 800rpm to 1000rpm, basically the ECU needs a reading from the throttle position switch telling it that it's in the closed position, and is using the idle control valve to idle correctly. Hope this helps Si

Hello there, the 16v distributors you can't really fit wrong as they only fit on one way, as a precaution though any distributor you remove from an engine, it's always best to time the engine up to TDC, to rule out any misalignment with engine / ignition timing. The rotor arm should point to number one HT lead on dissy cap, once engine is set to TDC. The 2.0 16v engine should ideally reach 1200rpm to 1500rpm from cold, then once it's off it's cold start program it'll drop down to 800rpm to 850rpm, if you're getting 2000rpm to 2500rpm then the distributor isn't set / timed up correctly, what I mean is the ignition timing of an old distributor compared to a new one is going to be slightly different, sounds light the ignition timing is set too far advanced hence the racing idle speed at 2500rpm ? But then you've mentioned the idle speed does drop down to 700rpm, which really is too slow, and is on the border line to cutting out. Ideally you'll need a timing strobe light to set the ignition timing, or at least to check it's correct. But especially to check the ignition timing when a new distributor has been fitted. You haven't messed around with the idle screw have you on the throttle body, as they are normally set to correct idle in the factory from new, plus normally have yellow or blue paint on them as standard setting up procedure like I say from when new. Have you a strong smell of fuel when it's running rough at 700rpm to 800rpm ?? Or is it popping / banging out of exhaust ?? The idle control valve can cause idle problems, but it won't cause the idle to shoot up to 2500rpm, it normally causes the engine to cut out when hot, or the valve becomes clogged up and sticks causing the idle to drop down slowly or idles at 1200rpm Si

This is before my time going back to the early days of the Forum, blimey. Bought my Corrado in April of 2002 from a Dr Hugh in Alton I think, for roughly £6000 Mileage then was 62k Owned it now for 17-1/2 years, longest I've ever owned a car. Si

Yeah I know Rob it's a pain it stopped working, I think Toby is looking at updating the Forum onto a whole new platform, basically new software and hopefully sort out the issues with uploading photos. As the foundations the Forum runs on are years old and need to be updated to bring it on par with today's software, which will make it run faster and more secure from what he's mentioned in his Forum Future Thread he started early last month, I think. Si

I've just recently found the part number for above item, as the photo/s that FOSTER9099 had attached have sadly gone. Part number is 02A 919 835 Look at drawing 4 for Corrado, item 12. Link to VW Classic Parts https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/huelse-5e636c.html Hope this helps others. Si

Hello there, if no joy then have a look at this Ebay link, these are brand new Speedo sensors. Link below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Beetle-Corrado-Golf-Jetta-Passat-Distance-Sensor-3-Pin-GENUINE-191919149D/223630583702 Part number I think is 191 919 149D Si

From what I can remember and what I've found in my service history going back to 2009, I think these are the original part numbers for the 9A engine, possibly similar or the same for the ABF & KR High pressure oil sensor switch (white 1.8 bar) Part number 056 919 081 Oil pressure secondary switch (brown 0.3 bar) Also you can get the blue one below. (Blue 0.4 bar) Part number 028 919 081H Oil temp sender Part number 049 919 563A Normally fits in back of head on 9A & ABF the KR might be on the oil filter housing. Si

You could try VW Heritage but I doubt they'll have stock, they usually have to order in rare items for the Corrado from VW Classic Parts who are based in Germany, shipping times vary from 5 weeks up to 12 weeks. Plus if you order from VW Heritage you have to spend up to £50 I think to gain free shipping. The item you need is also in stock on this Ebay sellers page. Ebay item number 192872547443 Cost approx £8.48 + shipping £3.24 to UK Mainland. States 4 in stock Looks like delivery will be in early October 2019 so roughly 3 weeks. Seller is based in Riga, Latvia. You could try VW Main Dealer but I'm sure they're obsolete with them. Si

What about contacting a Ford Main Dealer and see what price they are from them, as I think they used the 2.8 VR6 in the late 1990s Ford Galaxy. They could be the same price or possibly slightly cheaper ? Si

That's what I recall I'm sure there's a thread about that somewhere, which is why I thought about the front Passat handles, unless no one has tried them. Anyway I've ordered a Passat handle and will try it and see how it goes, surely it can be done especially like you say the rear ones fit with slight tweaking. Si

This link might work, it should show the right side repair kit for door handle. Part number 535 898 084 https://images.app.goo.gl/sP4rBSqd1FULzxEq6 The Passat and Corrado handles are pretty much the same, but the repair kits are different, which is why you have to change over your lock barrel as that is keyed to match your own key, and the butterfly/wing type connector washer arm is different, a part from that it's the same door handle I think. I think the butterfly/wing type arm thing is connected to the back end of the lock barrel, so basically when you lock the door via your key, I think it rotates round so the striker arm can't connect, but when unlocked the striker arm can then make contact allowing you to open the door. I think the butterfly/wing type arm is fairly deep/ tall on the Corrado. Whereas on the Passat it's shallower/shorter, I think that's right anyway. Si

The good thing about that USA replacement regulator kit that they used to sell on the ARZ Tuning site, is that it has no cables so is gear driven. On most of the cable operated regulators they tend to get a lot of free play, where the cable frays or will stretch over time. Whereas on the gear driven one it's just the teeth on the mechanism gear, and the motor it's self that will wear out, basically less to go wrong and more of a simplified system so to speak. Si

Yeah that's a fair point, I'm just thinking out load seeing what options are available, and what others think. Si

I think the striker arm as you say can be replaced by the stronger stainless ones, I think Dave16v is or was making the stainless replacements. The actual repair kit from VW Classic Parts, is what used to be available from VW Main Dealers years ago. Sometimes the small round spring can break or the butterfly/wing type contact washer thing can break. These are basically two different repair kits, as there's more then one part of the door handle that can break over time. Si

Unbelievably looks like there's the right handle repair kit on EBay. Ebay item number 192872547443 Cost is roughly £12 including shipping from Latvia. I think the kit should consist of the following: 1 Small circlip 1 spring 1 rubber seal 1 Locating washer 1 butterfly or wing washer Si

Here's the link https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/reparatursatz-fb24a5.html Says repair kit for right outer door handle, part number 535 898 084 €6.99 in stock at VW Classic Parts. Speak to VW Heritage first to be 100% The left door handle repair kit is still obsolete I think. Part number 535 898 083 Hope this helps Si

Hello there, I think the Passat B3 1988 - 1991 door handles fit the Corrado, but you'll have to change over the lock barrel so you can still use your own key, and of course the butterfly washer thing might be different, but a part from that it's basically the same handle I think. I think possibly the right hand side repair kit for the door handle, is still available at VW Classic Parts, but the left side repair kit isn't. I'll see if I can find it and post up a link for you. Si

Looks like both the left & right manual window regulators for the Corrado are available, but the electric ones they've sadly sold out for now at Classic Parts. I don't think there's enough room to attach that aftermarket regulator behind the door card, plus there's the issue of the manual window winder gear stem sticking out too far, might have to drill a hole so it can protrude through the door card slightly, then put some kind of cap over it ? This might be an option for early Corrado owners who've already got manual windows ? On the Corrado the electric window regulators look very similar to the manual one, there's clearly some differences though, a part from the obvious, do you think it's possible to dismantle an electric regulator motor, and fabricate it to fit a manual one, I'm guessing not it'll be too much hassle. Si