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Hello there, link below from the last group buy back in 2017 think 8vmatt sold them, but pretty sure he sold out. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?96213-2017-Headlight-Switch-group-buy-is-a-go!/page12 I bought 2 or 3 from Matt so might have a brand new spare one for you, let me check my spares first to be sure I do have one. I think Matt sold them for £25 so I'll do the same. Si

No worries here's a link to a thread from 2014 regarding the Castrol Syntrans multigrade 75w-90 gear oil. Si

Also regarding gear oil the multi grade works best, especially in the winter helps stop notchy gear changes, which is an issue with these gearboxes, normally 1st and 2nd synchro's go first, that's what happened to mine so had it rebuilt back in 2009 Castrol Syntrans multigrade 75w-90 you'll need at least two 1L tubs. I bought mine from Halfords. The Allan key filler & drain plugs are the same size, think they're tapered thread which is why they don't screw right in. Also when you're ready to refill the gearbox and drain plug is back in, you can remove the black plastic vent plug, it's behind the reverse switch on the left, it simply lift's off, and will push clip back on. Once vent plug is removed just fill up gearbox and have the filler plug removed, and keep checking to see when oil starts running out, the oil should submerge slightly the lower part of thread, hence thin slow trickle running out of filler plug hole. Si

9A ECU has 35 terminal pins on ECU and wiring harness plug. (Main power to ECU is terminal/pin 19) 1.5mm red wire, you should have 12v DC here when ignition is switched on, and still when key is turned to crank engine. If no power then check fuses, just in case. (Earth points for ECU is terminal/pin 35) 1mm brown wire, looks like this is the main earth for unit. This earth goes through ECU wiring harness/loom possibly to fuse box. This wire changes colour in harness/loom or from fuse box, (changes to 1mm brown/white wire) and goes to valve cover at the back on the right in engine bay, close to where the distributor is. Should be a small rectangle bracket with 1 or 2 threaded stud/s, there are several earth wire's bolted to it to ground. Si

Fuel system according to the Bentley manual Coolant temperature switch = can cause none start & rough running when cold or hot. Check terminals 3 and 35 on ECU for coolant temp switch with plug attached to sensor, cold 8000ohms + or - hot 200ohms + or - According to Bentley manual ********* Air flow meter/sensor = cause none start & rough running. Check terminals 26 & 23 on ECU = air flow sensor plate at rest position = should see 5000ohms + or - If no readings then possible break in wiring to air flow sensor. Also check terminals 26 & 35 on ECU = air flow sensor plate at rest position = should see 4000ohms + or - If no readings then possible break in wiring to air flow sensor pin 3 or break in earth wire from ECU i.e terminal 35 Air flow meter sensor. This sensor has a 3 terminal/pin connector plug. 1 = live (+) 2 = possibly the trigger/signal 3 = earth (-) Again check you have power to this sensor. Terminal 1 of air flow sensor is linked to terminal 26 of ECU. Looks like terminal 2 of air flow sensor is linked to terminal 23 of ECU. Terminal 3 of above sensor says is earth connection goes back in ECU main wiring loom. Also in the Bentley manual it says it's possible to check condition of the air flow sensor, with a multimeter set at 20 Volts DC Switch ignition on and check voltage between terminals 1 (+) and terminal 3 (-) reading should be 4.35v to 5.35v for input voltage if the voltage is not in above range or no readings then possible wiring fault. NEXT switch ignition off and connect the multimeter between terminal 2 (signal pin) and terminal 3 (-) now start engine and allow to idle for at least 2 to 3 minutes, the output voltage should drop to 0.7v to 0.9v if not in range this can cause running issues. The Bentley manual states the output range can be adjusted, BUT ONLY IF OUT OF RANGE as the air flow sensor/metering head is set up at the factory when car was new. ************* differential fuel pressure governor/regulator. This item is on the fuel metering head, attached to the front side facing the alternator pulley of air filter box, it's normally got a thick plastic cover protecting it. It says the pressure regulator is held in place by two ANTI MAGNETIC BOLTS, so I presume not to cause any interference, as this sensor receives variations in resistance flow, from ECU via throttle response and air flow meter sensor plate, plus signal from coolant temp switch. Again you need to check this pressure regulator is working, looks like you do this by checking the resistance flow via the 2 terminal/pin connector plug. Or by terminal/pin 4 and terminal/pin 5 of the main 35 pin ECU harness lead. Resistance readings should be 15 to 20 ohms Also it says the pressure regulator/governor if found to be faulty CAN NOT BE REPAIRED as it's a sealed unit. Si

Some more info here if needed from the Bentley manual for the 9A eng code. Spark plugs (normally tripple electrode) can cause none start or rough running. HT leads (cause misfire under load) ********* Distributor (none start & misfire) Also you could check your hall sensor. The hall sensor has a 3 terminal/pin plug on side of distributor. 1 is earth (-) 2 is possibly the trigger/signal 3 is live (+) Using your multimeter again set at 20v DC check across/between terminals 1 & 3 ideally you should have 9v to 12v here with ignition on. If no voltage is found then do continuity test below. Looks like terminal 3 of hall sensor is partially linked to terminal 30 of ECU, as it says check for continuity with ignition off between these two terminal/pins. Terminal 1 of hall sensor is earth connection goes back in ECU main wiring loom Terminal 2 of hall sensor is trigger/signal is linked to terminal 30 of ECU Terminal 3 of hall sensor is linked to terminal 21 of ECU i.e as live feed to hall sensor. *********** Distributor cap (none start & rough running) Rotor arm (none start & rough running) Pickup sensor (normally on HT lead n.o 4) Ignition timing = affects idle & rough running if set wrong. Should be set at 6° +or- 1° idle speed 800rpm to 1000rpm 1990 onwards Knock sensors = engine can be down slightly on power or slight misfire. Terminal 27 and 29 when using multimeter should see 1.5 ohms according to Bentley manual, I think with knock sensor connector plugs still plugged in. If no readings or don't match 1.5 ohms possible there's a break in wiring from ECU or sensor/s are dead. Ignition coil/coil pack. so on the coil at the live end you should see where the HT King lead is attached. Each side of this there should be two terminal contacts. 1 = - (minus) 15 = + (positive) With a multimeter set to 20v DC put the meter across/between these two, you should see 2v for a few seconds with ignition on. Ignition module control unit. I think this has a 7 terminal/pin connector plug. This unit is normally close to coil but on the back of bulkhead same side as wipers, possibly under plastic tray. Or it could be right beside coil on a alloy heat plate. Terminal 2 (-) earth and terminal 4 (+) I think goes to terminal 15 on coil. check with multimeter pins 2 & 4 you should have 12v DC with ignition on. If showing no power to coil or ignition module then could be a broken wire / wiring fault somewhere. Si

Ok so possibly could be electrical, you could like I say try a replacement coolant temperature switch, or have you tested it ? Test values should be I think: Cold = 0°C to 3°C 9000ohms to 8000ohms but should start dropping down once temperature increases. Hot = 80°C to 87°C 250ohms to 175ohms Si

Q: is there plenty of water in the coolant expansion bottle, is your oil level ok ? Only asking as the head gasket can sometimes fail across two cylinders, but you won't have any problems untill it's up to running temperature. You can check/test compressions with compression tester, first when engine is cold, then when it's hot. I've had this before on a VW Passat years ago. Have you checked the valve timing ? As that can cause weird running issues. Are the exhaust fumes popping/banging when exiting exhaust tail pipe, is it smoking at all ? Is there a strong rich smell of fuel ? Si

Normally check across/between the 2 pins. Si

The resistance reading should be high when temperature is cold, then drop down as temperature increases. All the Bentley manual says is at 50°c should read approx between 700 & 900 ohms, then at 90°C should read approx 200 to 300 ohms. If the coolant temp switch is cold or temperature is 0°C then ohms reading will be a lot higher. The Bentley manual says if readings are different i.e not in above range at 50°C and 87-90°C then coolant temp switch is faulty. Si

For a few beer tokens why not :lol: What flavor is your Corrado ? I don't mind doing another thread/s for the G60 and VR6 if it helps others ? Si

There's a 4 pin fan sensor in bottom left of radiator that's the main fan sensor, then the over run temp fan sensor with one wire, is attached to front left of valve cover. The coolant temperature switch is the one with the 2 pins, this is the one that should communicate with the ECU. I'm not aware of the coolant temp switch being partly connected to the radiator fan, they're usually independent I suppose it's possible it could send a trigger signal. I'll have to check the wiring diagrams this evening after work. Q: What are you reading from another manual ? Si

Right ok I think sensors in back of head under the distributor, the 2 pin connector one is coolant temperature switch, the small temp sender with the 1 wire is for your temperature gauge. Small temp sender in side of head on exhaust side at the top right around the back, (on right side if looking at engine head on) is for oil temperature, again only has the one wire. The temperature sensor attached to front of valve cover near cam belt/ air filter area, is the fan over run sensor normally has a yellow stripe around centre of sensor, it monitor's heat still trapped in engine bay once parked up, tells radiator fan to come on every minute or 2 untill heat reduced in engine bay. Si

To be honest this could be anything from electrical including distributor or fuel system. Have you checked the thermal transmitter also known as the coolant temperature switch, as they can break up/burn out and cause the engine to flood from cold, or can cause problems once engine is up to running temperature. I think the Lambda sensor is partly on the same circuit as the fuel governor/pressure regulator, and coolant temperature switch. A faulty hall sensor in distributor can cause running issues, which also can be heat related i.e up to running temperature, plus the ECU needs to see correct signal from hall sensor, as it confirms the engine is rotating, and I think sends pulse signals to coil. Have you checked condition of distributor cap and rotor arm ? The ECU has a connector plug with 35 terminal pins, terminal 12 is to fuel relay, terminal 7 is to Lambda sensor I think, which is also linked in circuit to the fuel governor/pressure regulator. Si

I think possibly the wiring loom is partly joined, from back rest heater element to base seat heater element, possibly best to remove both in situ just depends how much slack you'll obtain in wiring loom, from separating the two halves of seat, via the hinge bolts, or like what ben_wooduk mentioned above you could adjust the seat back position, making the seat back almost level parallel with the seat base, and see what room you have before unbolting/separating the two halves. Si

Main ECU has 35 terminals for the 2.0 16v E-Motronic Bosch system (9A eng) Terminal 1 = 0.5mm grey/white wire (goes to 6 point push on connector ground behind fuse box) Then goes to 3 point push on connector behind centre console. Then goes to double white diagnostic connector plug under gear stick boot, possibly up to 1992 After 1993 it'll be the OBD2 black connector. Terminal 2 = 0.5mm blk/white wire (earth to behind fuse box) says six point push on connection. Linked to battery to body earth. Terminal 3 = 0.5mm violet/blk wire (goes to terminal 1 of coolant temp switch) in back of cylinder head. Terminal 4 = 0.5mm white/red wire (goes to terminal 1 of differential pressure regulator/governor) Terminal 5 = 0.5 brown/Black wire (goes to terminal 2 of differential pressure regulator/governor) Terminal 6 = 0.5mm white wire (goes to 3 point push on connector near starter motor) then goes to terminal 1 of knock sensor 2. Terminal 7 = (For Lambda sensor) 0.5mm to 1mm black wire leaves terminal 7 and branches off into second black wire which goes to earth point on bulkhead, main black wire though continues to Lambda sensor, plus goes to single point connection in engine bay at the back, possibly to rear engine mount? 1mm white wire from Lambda plug goes to double connection point in rear of engine bay, then goes to single connection point behind fusebox panel. Also looks like the red/yellow wire from fuel pump circuit is partly connected to Lambda sensor via white wire. BUT NEED TO DOUBLE CHECK THIS Terminal 8 = has two wires. 0.5mm blk wire and 0.5mm yellow wire. ************** Blk wire (goes to 3 point push on connector near starter motor) *************** Yellow wire (goes to 3 point push on connector near starter motor, then goes to terminal 2 of knock sensor 2. Terminal 3 of knock sensor 2 is 0.5mm blk wire says is earth goes back in ECU main wiring loom. Terminal 9 = POSSIBLY ONLY ON USA MODEL. 0.5mm blk/yellow wire (goes to terminal 1 of EGR temp sensor G98) Terminal 2 of above sensor is 0.5mm brown/yellow wire says earth goes back in ECU main wiring loom. Terminal 10 = ???? Possibly blank as not listed ???? Terminal 11 = 1.5mm grey wire (goes to terminal 2 of ignition module. Terminal 12 = 0.5mm to 1mm red/yellow wire goes to fuel pump relay. Terminal 13 = 0.5mm yellow/blk wire (goes to 4 point push on connector behind fuse box) then goes to double blue diagnostic connector under gear stick possibly up to 1992 After 1993 it'll be the OBD2 black connector. Terminal 14 = 1.5mm blk wire (goes to 5 point push on connector behind fuse box) Then comes back out as 1mm blk wire, looks like an earth. Changes to 1.5mm blk/yellow wire (goes to 6 point push on connector behind fuse box) which links to terminal 1 of ignition module. Terminal 15 = 0.5mm green/yellow wire (goes to terminal 2 of carbon canister solenoid valve 2) Terminal 1 of solenoid valve is 0.5mm blk/white wire, says earth connection goes back in ECU main wiring loom. Terminal 16 = 0.5mm brown/red wire (goes to terminal 2 of cold start valve injector) Terminal 1 of cold start valve is 0.5mm blk/white wire, says earth connection goes back in ECU main wiring loom. Terminal 17= 1mm white wire (goes to terminal 1 of idle control valve) Terminal 2 of idle valve is 1mm blk/white wire, says earth connection back in ECU main wiring loom. Terminal 18 = 1.5mm brown/yellow wire (goes through ECU main wiring loom, where it changes to 2.5mm brown wire and 0.5mm brown wire. (Says ?? 2.5mm goes to THIS I'VE GOT TO TRACE YET ?? (Says 0.5mm goes to terminal 2 of carbon canister solenoid valve 1) Terminal 1 of solenoid valve 1 is 0.5mm blk/white wire, says earth connection back in ECU main wiring loom. Terminal 19 = 1.5mm red wire (looks like this is main live power to ECU) says goes to 2 point push on connector behind fuse box. Terminal 20 = ???? Possibly blank as not listed ???? Terminal 21 = 0.5mm red/blk wire (goes to terminal 3 of hall sensor) Terminal 1 of hall sensor = is 0.5mm brown/white wire = says earth goes back in ECU main wiring loom. This hall sensor is inside the ignition distributor = should have a 3 pin connector plug. Terminal 22 = 0.5mm yellow wire (goes to 5 point push on connector behind fuse box = says earth connection) then goes to 2 point push on connector behind centre console. Then goes to single white diagnostic connector under gear stick boot. possibly up to 1992 After 1993 it'll be the OBD2 black connector. Terminal 23 = 0.5mm grey/green wire (goes to terminal 2 of air flow sensor) Terminal 3 of above sensor = 0.5mm brown/white wire - says is earth connection goes back in ECU main wiring loom. Terminal 24 = Grey wire (goes to one point connector near starter motor) Then goes to terminal 1 of knock sensor 1 Terminal 25 = ???? Possibly blank as not listed ???? Terminal 26 = 0.5mm grey/red wire (goes to terminal 1 of air flow sensor. Terminal 27 = Green wire (goes to ignition timing reference sensor/knock control sensor) this is normally connected onto HT lead number 4. Only on 16v eng. Terminal 28 = 0.5mm black/blue wire goes to terminal 1 of throttle position switch. Terminal 29 = Red wire (goes to ignition timing reference sensor/knock control sensor) this is normally connected onto HT lead number 4. Only on 16v eng. Terminal 30 = 0.5mm green/white wire (goes to terminal 2 of hall sensor) This hall sensor is inside the ignition distributor = should have a 3 pin connector plug. Terminal 31 = ???? Possibly blank as not listed ???? Terminal 32 = 0.5mm grey wire goes to pin 3 of throttle position switch. Pin 2 of switch is 0.5mm brown/white wire that goes back into main ECU wiring loom, possibly an earth. Terminal 33 = 0.5mm blk/green wire (goes to 2 point push on connector behind fuse box. Terminal 34 = 0.5mm white/green wire (goes to 3 point push on connector behind fuse box) Then changes to 0.5mm brown/red wire = says goes to white 12 pin connector plug with central rear location tab, terminal/pin 6 of white 12 pin plug. Terminal 35 = 1mm brown wire (looks like this is one of the main earth connections for ECU) looks like it goes to valve cover on back right, close to where the distributor is. This is now all 35 terminal/pins listed for the 2.0 16v main fuel/ignition ECU. Si

Hi Richard, as far as I'm aware there's no seal on the rear screen, it's bonded like the front windscreen I believe. But the rear screen does have a rubber surround seal trim, if that's the one you mean, which is meant to stop dirt/moisture sitting in cavity around tailgate window frame. The rubber surround seal trim is I think part number 535 853 355A 01C Only problem is it's been obsolete now for more then 10 years, if yours is removed carefully it can possibly be reused. Also you could try SONAX rubber treatment or similar as it can help to preserve the life of exterior rubber trims. Si

Hello mate, worst case you'll have to remove the hub assembly from suspension strut, and put into vice to drill out the old ABS sensor, I suppose you could try and drill it out in situ still attached to strut, but there isn't a lot of room there on full lock. You could remove the hub assembly and take it to your local trusted garage, and get them to apply some heat gently to that area to remove the old sensor. Or you could try using an old medium sized flat ended screw driver or chisel, and hammer off the front end of sensor, then see if you can get a punch or screw driver, and hammer/push the old sensor out backwards. Keep using WD40 or what ever penetrating fluid you use, and hopefully it'll come out, use vice grips/locking pliers to clamp on base of sensor, as they are great for removing stubborn parts. Also hammer around the area where the ABS sensor is, as it'll help to shock it lose doesn't always work but can on seized items like this. If still no joy then like I say you might want to drill it out, you might have to remove the hub assembly if it's too tight to drill out in situ. Hope this helps Si

Hello there, your first photo looks a bit like the electric life switch from the back, which is basically an aftermarket switch Electric Life switch part number 4910-10-201 Ebay item number 113903061240 But I've managed to find an old thread from this forum with great information possibly for the switch in your first photo. From what I've read from the attached link below, my understanding is that the very early Corrado's with electric windows, did have the wires soldered to switch with 6 wires. Roughly from 1988 to 1989 or very early 1990 Link below http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?8787-power-window-circuit Your second photo is I believe the standard early switch that was used from 1989 to 1992 I think. The passenger OEM switch for the early trim I think is part number 357 959 855A 1989 to 1992 And the plastic switch surround I think is part number 357 959 550 1989 to 1992 OEM connector plug for window switch Part number 357 959 869 1989 to 1992 Hope this helps Si

Good to see you on here again Kev :thumbleft: Yeah I found the rust of doom up at the top behind where the fuel filler neck is bolted, cut it out and had to order a replacement inner rear wing section, as didn't fancy fabricating a new section piece. As for the :onfire: not yet :lol: Si

I think it is Toby his user name is t700bes Si

I believe Chris (SPRINTER53) is working on, or has said he knows someone who is getting the later style headlight lenses reproduced, possibly could be sometime in 2020 when they become available. Si

I totally agree :thumbleft: Si

Hi Rob yeah they were made by Chris (SPRINTER53) a member on here, I think they're acrylic glass or something, Chris has said we need to use LED bulbs only, as the OEM standard bulbs will distort or melt the acrylic glass. I purchased a set from him late last year, and they are great quality, and look just like the original lenses. But I think members/owners on here tend to prefer the OEM glass one's, to the acrylic replacements. Plus it would be handy having the compete fog light plastic surround assembly unit, as most are becoming brittle now after 24 plus years. To be honest I'm in agreement with Fendervg I'd be happy paying up to £200 for a new fog light plastic surround assembly unit, like I say you can purchase a new one from VW Classic Parts, but it's only the one side that's available, it's been like that for years now, VW unfortunately just aren't interested ? But if they did reproduce them they would sell out I'm sure, just like any other rare obsolete item/s, as long as the price isn't too high, If VW aren't going to help or at least look in to this issue, then we've got no other option but to help our selves, and with great members like Chris (SPRINTER53) and DAVE16V, JIM, plus everyone else who've helped over the years, getting parts 3D scanned, producing parts out of stainless, making moulds for items, or buying in upgraded headlight switches. It's about working together as a team to get the problem/s solved, which is why this forum is so important and the back bone to owning a Corrado. Si :salute:

I could of sworn they were available separately years ago, I must be thinking of a different car then, or like you say I'm thinking of the aftermarket lenses. Yeah I know the whole fog light complete unit is available at Classic Parts, but it's only the one side and they're not cheap. It's a shame VW hold the license/copy rights for these later type fogs, even if we all pester VW Classic Parts with this, I doubt they'll remake them, I could be wrong. I'm hoping VW Classic Parts can do a new batch run of the outer window scraper rubber seals, that's being organised by one of the members on here, if that does get the go ahead, might be worth throwing other rare obsolete items at them to look at ? Si