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I've just had a look at the item on Ebay, comes with Banjo bolts and sealing washers as a kit. That makes sense like what Gti_Jamo has said, that the 45° angled end should ideally attach to your clutch master cylinder, as the OEM master has the feed outlet on the left so it should fit ok, whereas on some of the aftermarket master cylinders the fluid outlet is on the back. Si

This Ebay item is the perfect part for replacing your old brittle plastic expanding screw retainer, this is for the plastic guide/guard for the fuel flap locking rod to motor. Ebay item number 181778132193 Fit's square hole 8mm X 8mm Length/ depth of item 6mm Screw hole 4mm I'll upload a link to the replacement panel I had to purchase, but only needed a small piece that I cut out of it. Hope this helps Si

Hello there, the OEM clutch pipe complete with flexi hose, the later type one is now obsolete, but the early type one was still available about a year ago. I basically made up my own pipe, I used 1/4" copper pipe to adapter 1/4" X 3/16" so could connect it to new flexi hose, which was a new brake hose from Audi A6 as it is the perfect length, then used 3/16" copper pipe from hose to slave cylinder, I've never had a problem with this. The large 1/4" OEM pipe runs from clutch master cylinder and goes under the ABS pump, then bends slightly by 45° to 90° and is moulded into flexible rubber hose, which that is moulded at other end of hose to smaller pipe to slave cylinder. Basically it's all one piece well it is on the later type pipe set up. Can you upload a link to the Ebay braided hose you've purchased, or type up the item number, so we can have a look and see in more detail. Hope this helps Si

Top man Cressa nice one, we never doubted you mate :dance: :thumbleft: That's it now Mike the beers are on you :drinking: Si

No worries Si

Yeah that's what I was thinking you might need a slightly smaller registration plate. Just wondering if anyone on here has bought one. Si

Has anyone seen the above item for sale on Amazon, it's slightly different to original spec, but doesn't look as robust as the one's Chris has made = Sprinter53 On Amazon it states they're brand new but are 460mm instead of standard 540mm Cost £84.65 + postage. Once on Amazon type in search box Corrado Rear Plinth and it should come up, if not then I'll try and post up a link. Si

Are these inpro headlights any good are they much brighter compared to OEM head lights, or are they about the same. I'm only asking as I've seen some brand new ones elsewhere. Cheers Si

Keyo I've cut out the small piece I need from the brand new O/S/R inner wing panel I purchased ages ago, basically I just needed the top left corner section of the fuel filler flap area, the rest of the panel including the wheel arch area I haven't touched, so if you need this or your body shop guys needs it, let me know and I'll give you first refusal of it. New it cost me £150 or £159 Make me an offer if you need it. Si

Good to hear you've sorted it :thumbleft: Only 58 miles that's got to be a record :king: I think the least miles I've done in mine between MOT was roughly 900 miles. Take her out on the motorway and get rid of those cobwebs, that reminds me I saw a massive garden spider this morning, it was massive not far off the size of your hand, I almost c****ed myself :shocked!: So that got booted out the front door :2gunfire: Si

Sounds about right :lol: I can't say to much as I used to work for a Peugeot Main Dealer many moons ago, all we did was services / MOT / PDI = pr-delivery inspection of new cars. Hardly did any clutches or head gaskets, mainly all the easy bread & butter jobs were done there. I always try to remove all wheels on a full service. Si

Gave my SEAT a full service today, my mate allowed me to use his workshop which was a big help. Looks like all 4 wheels have never been removed since new, they were a real pig to remove off hubs, the first 3 services were done at Snows SEAT Main Dealer, don't these Main Dealers remove wheels any more ? Plus I followed the procedure in my owners manual to reset the service light/indicator but it didn't work, also tried it from what my Haynes manual said and again no joy. This is what they say. With ignition switched off depress & hold the right button under dash dial's, now switch ignition on & release right button and press left button within 20 seconds. Service light should go out. Turns out the above procedure works on SEAT Ibiza's with red LED dash from 2008 to roughly 2012 or 2014 Ibiza's with white LED dash you have to do the following procedure. With the ignition switched off, turn Hazard's on wait 3 seconds, now depress & hold the right button under dash dail's, now switch ignition on and release right button and quickly press left button, the service light should reset. Now turn off Hazard's. This worked on mine with the white LED dash 2015 to 2017 Hope this helps out others Si

Sounds like your in good hands, especially as you say he's done body repairs for 40 years. Si

I thought they made changes to the rear arches to match to later type front wings, but looks like no changes were ever made to rear arches over the Corrado's 7 year production life. Just found this old thread from 2017 look at post 9 by YANDARDS he clearly states no changes were made to rear arches. Link below: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?99521-Early-and-Late-Model-Front-Wings Si

Ideally it would be great if VW Heritage could produce repair panel sections for our Corrado's, like what they've done for the MK1 / MK2 Golfs. We need front wing lower repair panels. Rear wheel arch repair panel. Rear outer sill rear section. Fuel filler repair panel section. I know what they'll say though, that there isn't enough of a demand for those, or it'll cost too much to produce them. We might have to help our selves and chip in together financially, and get some repair panel sections made. Look at the MGB owners club, for years and years they weren't able to get many parts including body panels, but they all worked together and now stock their own parts at the MGB owners club shop. Si

My Corrado has rust issues on the rear panel, outer sill lip that joins to rear wheel arch both sides, front right outer sill at base of A-piller, and the fuel flap area but the inner section up inside the wheel arch. I made my own repair section for the rear outer sill that joins to arch, basically looking at the rear wheel arch the front lower section that has the 90 degree lip, that kicks down and under by 45 degree towards the rear axle beam. It's about 4" long and is the rear water run off from the sill, the N/S/R I've done. This took me ages to get the correct curve and shape by hammering and bending it in the vice. The rear panel I've also done this was just small bubbling areas, that I totally cut the rust out, and again fabricated up pieces to fit correctly. The drivers A-piller the base of it, this I've cut all the rust out and made a piece to fit, then sprayed loads of wax oil up behind it in the sill box section. The fuel flap area I had to bite the bullet and purchase the inner skin panel, which is roughly £150 From this panel I've already drilled and filed the two square holes to retain the plastic fixing clips, for the fuel flap locking motor. Then will cut out a section close to fuel flap, and do the same with the old rusty inner wheel arch, and weld it in carefully as I don't want too much heat, as it could distort the outer wheel arch panel. Plus I've got a new support bracket that the fuel filler neck bolts to. Also I've fabricated a MK2 Golf battery tray to fit my Corrado. To spend £1100 on just two panels and this is even before any work has started on it yet, is a nightmare :shocked!: See if the body shop your possibly going to use can fabricate a repair panel section from a sheet of metal, a good panel beater / sprayer should be able to do that, it could cost £1000 for both sides, but might be a cheaper option than spending £1100 on two rear wings that are early spec one's, which would need fabricating to look like VR6 one's. Your other option is to try and find a Corrado that is being sold for spares, and see if you can get the rear arches cut out, but then you've got the risk of those being rusty also ? Si

Hello mate this is a real dilemma as all the Corrado panels are genuine only, we're unable to purchase any pattern panels because none were ever made only genuine, which is a kick in the balls :brickwall: Virtually everything or most things for the MK1 & MK2 Golf are available panel wise, as they were mass-produced cars, whereas our Corrado's never quite reached one million. The MK2 Golf rear arches are a lot different compared to our Corrado's, it might be possible to fabricate them to fit, but it would take some man hours to do that. Plus the Corrado rear arches are double skinned, so possibly the inner skin panel might have rusted too ? Also I think the new front wings and rear wing panels for the Corrado at Classic Parts, are the early type one's from 1989 to 1992, so yes they will fit perfectly as they're a genuine item but they are not wide as the VR6 one's, there's at least 10mm difference between early & late wings front/rear. Si

STEERING 1.8 16V and 2.0 16v Corrado looks like the original retaining U-clamp for left side of steering rack was 15mm wide with matching bush. Actual Width 16.5mm Thickness 5mm Inner diameter 61mm to 62mm Height inner 70mm Height outer 75mm 15mm wide U-clamp now obsolete Aftermarket 15mm bush still available. If you're able to clean up your original 15mm wide clamp, basically you don't have heavy corrosion and it's just light surface rust, then you should be ok to reuse it. ****************** Replacement retaining U-clamp is 18.5mm Part number 191 419 875 VW Heritage sell them plus some on Ebay. Actual Width 20.3mm Thickness 5mm Inner diameter 61mm to 62mm Height inner 70mm Height outer 75mm Plus you'll need the matching bush to fit the above clamp 18.5mm ******************* Power steering rack retaining flange bolts M8 X 75mm thread pitch 1.25 Thread length 40mm Size of Hex head 13mm Grade = high tensile grade 8.8 OEM Part number N901 845 02 obsolete Original flange nuts for above bolts Size of hex on nut 13mm Thread pitch 1.25 OEM Part number N902 264 04 obsolete Due to OEM rack bolts now obsolete, you can still purchase ordinary shouldered bolts, just make sure they're minimum grade of 8.8 high tensile and ideally shouldered bolts. Regarding the thread the original pitch was 1.25mm if the thread length on bolt replacement is only 25mm or 30mm long then it'll be too short, you can use a M8 die with 1.25mm to cut and extend the thread to make it 40mm long if needed. Also make sure you use nylon lock nuts, the original rack bolts and nuts were flanged ones. ****************************** CORRADO with KR Engine 1989 to 1991 Power steering oil reservoir 191 422 371C Power steering hose from reservoir to pump 535 422 881 A) Return pipe from rack to reservoir ( RHD 192 422 891A ) ( LHD 191 422 891 ) B) Feed pipe from power steering pump to rack ( RHD 192 422 893A ) ( LHD 191 422 893 ) O-ring for both main pipes above (A) and (B) 1H0 422 999 TRW Steering rack RHD up to VIN >>>50-N-011 487 ( with 36 splines ) 192 422 061P Steering column shaft (with 36 splines) 536 419 951A TRW Steering rack RHD after VIN 50-N-011 488>>> ( with 22 splines ) 192 422 061K Steering column shaft (with 22 splines) 536 419 951C Top bolt for steering column shaft ( M8 X 35mm ) N01 033 512 Nut lock nut for above bolt N10 218 708 Bottom bolt for steering column shaft ( M8 X 28mm ) N01 023 36 Track rod end right side 191 419 812 Hex lock nut for above track rod end N90 321 302 Track rod end left side 191 419 811 Hex lock nut for above track rod end N90 321 302 Nut that locks track rod end to tie rod M14 X 1.5mm N10 218 708 ************************************************* CORRADO with 9A Engine 1991 to 1995 Power steering oil reservoir 191 422 371B Power steering hose from reservoir to return pipe 535 422 888A T-Piece for above hose 191 422 929 A) Return pipe from rack to above T-Piece ( RHD 536 422 891 ) ( LHD 535 422 891 ) Return hose from above pipe to cooler pipe under radiator 535 422 889A Cooler pipe (fits under radiator) 535 422 896A Hose from cooler pipe to power steering pump 191 422 887 = up to 1993 Hose from cooler pipe to power steering pump 535 422 887E = From 1993 to 1995 B1) Feed pipe from power steering pump to rack ( RHD 536 422 893B ) ( LHD 535 422 893C ) THIS IS THE SCREWED TYPE B2) Feed pipe from power steering pump to rack ( RHD 536 422 893D ) ( LHD 535 422 893D ) THIS IS THE BANJO TYPE O-ring for both main power steering pipes above (A) and (B1) 1H0 422 999 TRW Steering rack RHD up to VIN >>>50-N-011 487 ( with 36 splines ) 192 422 061P Steering column shaft (with 36 splines) 536 419 951A TRW Steering rack RHD after VIN 50-N-011 488>>> ( with 22 splines ) 192 422 061K Steering column shaft (with 22 splines) 536 419 951C Top bolt for steering column shaft ( M8 X 35mm ) N01 033 512 Nut lock nut for above bolt N02 214 64 Bottom bolt for steering column shaft ( M8 X 28mm ) N01 023 36 Track rod end right side 191 419 812 Hex lock nut for above track rod end N90 321 302 Track rod end left side 191 419 811 Hex lock nut for above track rod end N90 321 302 Nut that locks track rod end to tie rod M14 X 1.5mm N10 218 708

Oil temp sender Part number 049 919 563A Normally fits in back of head the side facing exhaust manifold, should fit top left on 9A & ABF But the KR might be on the oil filter housing. ****************** 2.0 16v 9A ABF Coolant temp switch (2 pin) white connector block Part number 026 906 161 Normally fits in back of head under distributor. *************** 2.0 16v 9A ABF Coolant sender for temp gauge, single spade round connection. Colour = White Temp range = 0 - 150°C Thread M10 X 1mm OEM Part number 027 919 501 ?? Normally fits in back of head under distributor. **************** KR 9A ABF Coolant temp sensor single spade flat connection. Colour = Black Spade diameter 6.3 mm Temp range 0 - 125°C Thread = M10 X 1mm OEM Part number 027 919 501 VW Heritage 049 919 501 Looks like you can also get this sender with the single round connection (colour black) same part number 049 919 501 Normally fits in back of head under distributor. Si

No worries good to hear you've got a new replacement. Si

Oh right ok, cheers. Si

Fair play getting new fuel pipes made, I've had my low pressure fuel pipes repaired with new hose ends, the one's above fuel tank, and had the long main fuel pipe's repaired from fuel metering head to high pressure fuel pump housing. I'm surprised they weren't leaking as the hose ends and special crimp fixings were heavily perished / corroded. Si

I've had one or two break in the past, to be honest it is easily done, as they're such a small fine thread, plus they can easily cross thread. The oil pressure switch thread possibly is parallel, meaning it's even and straight. The coolant temp senders sometimes can be tapered thread but not always. I can't see any torque settings for the fuel pipe to injector, so you'll need two spanner's, one for injector to stabilize it so it can't spin round, and the other to do up the retaining nut on the end of pipe. Si

No I tell a lie I've just found the torque setting for the oil pressure switches. 25Nm (18 ft.Ib from Bentley Manual I'd still be careful torquing them up to this setting as they can easily break. Si

No worries. Si