destructiv dave

Just give them a little tap. Haywire did it on his and I knocked mine out over the weekend (though obviously my subframe hasn't been polished so little knocks didn't matter).

Just checked on the shady Russian ETKA site and the 6J x 15" ET35 are BBS RM's. The RZ as found on the G60 are listed as ET33.

Lee, you still have the bolts for the rack attached. You can knock them out and renew them. forgot to add; good work fella :D

et 33 mate.

It will physically fit, but the number of splines may be different (you may have 36 as opposed to 22 on the later racks), but you can get hold of the corresponding part from quite a few other donor cars.

They list the RT-R4.2 at £67.01 + VAT which is pretty damn good (as far as I can make out).

I believe it now does sequential injection as my friend will be using his to run a 1.8T running 8 injectors. It is constantly being developed by users of it, so there are updates to the software from time to time. Speak to KeithMac as he is using it to run a G6016V or Martyn16v on the ClubGTI forum.

Have just checked on the Russian ETKA site and the part number for the Seat rack is 6K2422061B and was fitted until some date in 2002, before it changed to a more upright (a la Mk4) input shaft. And the part it is replacing is 192422061K on the Corrado for the 22 spline input shaft. Have spent today on the phone trying to convince breakers yards that I did want to fit an Ibiza rack out of a 2001 car into my 1994 Corrado, without a whole deal of success. But will go back tomorrow armed with this part number and see how it goes. Just a thought about this clunking noise as the noise I hear almost sounds springlike: has anyone experienced this noise on standard suspension?

With it disconected and with the handle back on, open a window, turn the key to lock and hold it there and see if it closes the window for you. Try it on the passenger side as well and see what happens. Unfortunately can't check on mine as I don't have barrels on the handles (also can't remember if you could perform this closure function from both doors).

Hazarding a guess here but....think it is something to do with total closure. If you have an aftermarket alarm fitted (or even possibly factory as well), then they splice into the total closure module mounted on the left of the passenger footwell negating the need for that connector. By reconnecting it it may be confusing the module.

My mate set off from Chichester to pick me up in London to drive up to Glasgow and across to the west coast to look at a car and them promptly turn round and drive back. Think total distance for him was 1,200 miles in all.

Shaggsy, got Masters down in Littlehampton to weld in the handles and John Mitchell to do the mechanism (as Woody also did). It was a lot of money but as both the doors had door prying damage and the paint had a slightly goldish tinge to it (apparently from cheap laquer used in blowing the doors over in the past), so needed a bit of paint on the sides anyway. Bill, cheers mate. Can't wait to see the transformation in yours. Was eyeing up those RC's of yours when you had them up for sale a while back but managed to resist. Bally, cheers. Haven't been to Ace in a while and is off the road whilst I turbocharge it, but hoping to have it back for end of March.

Thanks. Have managed to 'invest' quite a bit into those handles. When fitted the painter tried to blend the area in but the rest of the paint on the sides had a slightly goldy tinge to it (apparently from the use of cheap laquers in the past that would discolour over time) so ended up getting the sides sprayed and the bonnet and the bumpers and the roof (was some laquer flaking up the top of the A-pillar so get it blown over). Bodywork is now mint, just have to concentrate on the rest of it. Picture taken at the Ring in Nov. Car coped pretty well, but need rear buches done now.

Have had the car for coming up to a year now. There were quite a few bumps and scrapes when I got it, with both door handle areas affected by break-in attempts (hence the addition of A6 handles). Have swapped out the dark grey flat (poverty) bench interior for a VR6 interior (Black with the Champagne glasses), with the addition of Audioscape door pods and Audioscape Sub enclosure for the boot. Brakes have been upgraded to 280mm and it is running a Milltek exhaust and have widetracked the front using Passat wishbones and Driveshafts (pics above were taken before this). Next job is to drop the engine and box, rebuild the engine, uprate the clutch along with any other components and turbocharge it (made that sound a lot easier than it will ever be). Will be taking photo's of my conversion and hoping to get it done this month (if it ever warms up), and will try to post as the build goes on.

Pickard, Yep positive. If you follow the cut end down by the Brake servo you will see it go through the inner arch then come out and attach to the wheel sensor. Not sure about splicing it back together as have never cut one, but as you are looking for the short end of wire you may be able to source one quite easily from a breaker.

ABS sensor^^^

Seen that before 8) . Some serious engineering has gone into that. Pity there isn't a set of build photo's so we can see exactly what has gone into it to see how much work that's involved.

Thanks for that. The stereo switching itself was so occassional that I blamed it on it being a Sony head unit issue...that was until today when I trashed my starter motor. Well seeing as I am dropping out the whole subframe and turbocharging the engine whilst doing a clutch change and renewing/uprating everything else that I can see, I may as well add a new ignition switch to my shopping list.

Driving along earlier, when my head unit switched off completely and a slight grinding sound occurred. My immediate thought with the stereo was that the X-relief relay had been activated, so not too concerned with that issue at the moment. Pulled over at my brothers (was nearby anyway) to investigate. Tapped the starter with a hammer and tried firing up, but had a proper horrid grinding noise, so stopped. Whipped out the starter and the ring gear on the starter shaft is wrecked. Now I have the option of getting a starter off a mate and trying that, refurbing mine (if poss) or bying new, but I don't feel that is really getting to the source of the problem. In the searches I have done on this, it keeps throwing up Ignition Switch problems...could this be a factor. Many thanks in advance, David

What engine is it?

There was a white one which had a bodykit and belonged to a bloke off a cruise site running 9x15's. Had a flushed rear end with the numberplate relocated to the rear bumper. Think there was a post about 9 months ago about it.

Try Passat tie rods.

For the door pockets I would use these as found http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32193 Only problem being those are for 6.5 inch speakers, but if you buy new, then you can ask them to cut out the hole for 5.5 inch speakers.

They do not sit higher. They are slighlty more flared to match the late bumper. It is very difficult to tell which is which unless you have two side by side to compare.

Same as on the KR engines found in the golf, so if you can have a quick flick through a Haynes (book of lies) manual it should give you a clear idea. Basically on the distributer end of the cams there is a little mark on each of the faces of the sprockets. These need to be level (and facing each other) with the top edge of the head with the rocker cover off. This should be set up whilst engine is TDC, have a look for the flywheel mark, recheck with the crank pulley, then stick an extension bar down spark hole 1.