destructiv dave

Corrado's have a rear beam rather than a rear subframe, although from what you are describing it might be something else rather than the beam as even though they do gain surface rust over time I've never heard of one getting so bad it needs changing. VR6 beam differs slightly from the four cylinder engined cars. If you search for 'rear beam' and look through Jay Renshaw's build thread he has both beams side by side. The long and the short is that the VR beam is slightly wider (circa 15mm) but also has a beefier bush set up. Personally I would replace, if required, with a VR beam. The shield you refer to is often termed as brake dust shield. I think they can still be had new from VW.

Do you still have the ABS wiring loom? I'm looking for the wiring that comes into the car through the bulkhead on the drivers side.

Hi Rob, That would be great thanks. I had a different issue but with similar consequences to you; car was left up for a while and someone chopped the Clifford alarm out. In doing this they took the fuse box, but chopped the connector off every bit of wire they could find. Luckily had a spare loom, but decided to solder the ends back on rather than re-route another loom. Seemed like the right thing to do and nearly everything works except the windscreen washer motor, the indicator warning lights on the clocks and the ABS. Dave

Hi Rob, Could you do me a favour and post photos of the loom once you receive it. I'm missing a bit of mine from the wires that come through the bulkhead but over toward the driver's side (so not going through to the relays behind the glovebox). Means my system is not working and the light stays on. Thanks, Dave

Big shout out to Purple Tom. Great communication and speedy dispatch of well packaged goods. Would recommend wholeheartedly. Dave

Hi Tom, Sounds perfect. I'll PM over address details. Thanks, Dave

Hi, Looking for various parts for my 2l 16v (1994 late spec): Dash Ashtray Wiper relay (relay 99) White plastic clip for fuse box (possibly p/n 192 941 856) Interior screws for trim and door cards Thanks, Dave

Had these in an 84 A-reg GTI, but mine were faded and stank of dog. If I were you have a look on ClubGTI to shift these as there a number of tidy examples of early MkII's but some sporting rough interiors.

A couple of people to name: 24V Renshaw - items matched their description and was a very simple pleasant transaction. Vornwend / CazzaVR - thanks for getting the parts off in time for the CCGB AGM and all items as described and good value. Dragon Green - didn't buy anything from him, but he kindly offered to collect parts from the AGM and drop them off with me - top bloke!!

I'm pretty sure that the lights when activated by the alarm don't go through the VW relay and instead the will pulse directly into the wire the number of flashes required. I would still look at the relay, the switch and the wiring around the fusebox.

Hi Sam - glad you've got it sorted. Had a feeling it would be to do with the exciter wire, but didn't have the skills to resolve it!

Hi Cazza, Thanks for the update. For info, I no longer need the clocks (sorry for not letting you know earlier), but do require all the other items. Dave

That would be fantastic Bryan!! Thanks for the offer. Dave ---------- Post added at 5:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:13 PM ---------- That would be fantastic Bryan!! Thanks for the offer. Dave

Hi Cazza/Vornwend, Do you have any idea when you will be taking the sports cat off? Dave

Going on a road trip (parts collection task) tomorrow morning in my brother's Golf from North London to Wilmslow in Cheshire. Will be setting off from London between 7:30 and 8:00 and hoping to arrive into Cheshire about 10:30 - 11:00. If you have anything that needs transporting, then please let me know and I'll see if we can fit it in. Will be bringing back a rear beam so overly bulky items may be a struggle but happy to discuss. Dave

Ok Jay - done. I'll come up in the morning.

Hi Jay, I am interested in this rear beam. Just trying to work out how much shipping would be to Tunbridge Wells (TN4 9UE). Thanks, Dave

Many thanks to NewbridgeJob. Swift communication and even swifter despatch of goods :afro:.

Quick check then - does your battery light come on with the ignition?

Which black wire do you mean? F/3 should be a blue wire.

That diagram is of the rear of the fuse box - where all the wires connect into it. The block that connects to the cluster is the black wiring block that goes into the back of the clocks. The other end of the wire is the two blue connecters (U1 and U2). Hope this makes sense.

Sam, On this diagram http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html, you can see that the blue exciter wire is pin 3 of block F. The blue wire then goes from pin 12 of U2 to pin 16 of the block that connects into the cluster. Take it from me - the blue wire is part of the charging circuit. If it isn't connected, corroded etc. then the circuit isn't complete and your alternator will not charge your battery. David

Might be shooting in the dark here, but from memory (been away from cars for 5 years) there should be a blue wire that goes from the alternator to either the clocks or near to the fusebox. This is integral to your charging circuit and if it is not connected/damaged, then your battery will not charge. ---------- Post added at 11:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:30 PM ---------- Sam, I just checked a wiring diagram I have (from some russian site) and the blue wire goes to Fuse/Relay pin F/3. Then looking at the schematic, pin F/3 connects to the instrument cluster pin #16 (which is also a blue wire). I'll try and dig out what F/3 relates to but presume it means pin 3 of one of the wiring blocks that comes from the engine side designated as block F (there are only about 4 or 5 for the engine loom). If you have access to a multimeter then I would suggest that you check the continuity between the blue wire on the alternator and pin F/3 and then again between pin 16 on the blocks at either end of the lead between the fusebox and cluster. This is basically what you would be paying an auto-electrician sacks of money for!! David

Green is the mineral oil and what you need.

Bloody hell - that's some serious rot. Did this live by the sea at some stage (or even in it!!)?