destructiv dave

On the crankshaft pulley, there should be a little lug that locates into the cutout off the crank. The cutout doesn't look too damaged and should locate the pulley correctly (difficult to tell through just picture though). I really don't think you will have to take the crank out to fix this, though use loctite and torque the new bolt with a new pulley and it should be OK.

My thanks out to mr. brown... quick delivery, well wrapped, does exactly what it says on the tin. Cheers mate :D

I had a 3 wire on my 2l16v. You are welcome to it for £35 posted. I bought mine for £90 from a company in London and used it for 1000 miles for my nurburgring trip. The only issue with it is that the doughnut who fitted it cut off the earth lead connector and put a different connector on it to bodge it somewhere easier, rather than earthing it on the bracket on the rear engine mount.

rmn, If you can work out which is the wire that feeds back for the rev counter that would be appreciated as I know that won't work now I have hacked out the ECU loom. Probably one for the MFA fuel consumption on the left or middle plugs, but not interested in that really. Everything else should work.

rmn, Tried to take some photos but they didn't come out very well, so I drew you a picture. The block on the left goes to the ECU, as do most of the ones off the middle one expect black which goes to the TCI switch on the coil. On the right; green/black for switch on back of block black/white for switch by water outlet on side of head (ends up attaching into loom from ECU) black/blue for switch on oil cooler yellow for switch on oil cooler yellow/red for switch on side of head red/white ??? Hope that helps.

Tom, Here are the wheels running on 195-50-15

Car is up at my Brothers but hoping to go up there tonight as I need to take some photo's for rmn as well.

rmn, Do you know which is the feed wire for the rev counter. I have stripped back the engine loom as I am using Megasquirt so don't need any of the original engine harness, other than what is neede for the MFA and clocks. The signal seems to go from the coil to the ECU then back to the fuse box. Just wondering which is the wire that goes to the fusebox and if it is possible to connect it straight to the coil to get its feed for the rev counter. I will go up to my garage this evening and have a look and take photos for you to see which wires you need to kep. Thanks, Dave

Tom, I have the same wheels and run 195-50-15 Toyos that I got from Demon Tweeks at Inters last year (£27 each). I run widetrack front wishbones (off a Passat) that pushes the track out another 18mm each side (giving me an ET of 6) with my car lowered 40mm on Weitec suspension and don't have any rubbing or catching on the front.

Taking the seats out is easy. Tools needed; 17mm spanner (and 17mm ratchet spanner if you have one) 10mm socket 8mm socket 6mm allen key good philips screwdriver Fronts have 8mm nut with a 6mm allenhead bolt at the front. Undo this and remove then slide back all the way and they are good to go. Rears have a clip at the front that is located into a hole, so push down on the front in the middle of the seat base (bases are seperate), then push back a little bit and it should spring out. Flip the centre arm rest to get access to the four philips screws that hold it down. Now you should see the bracket for the rear backrests. 4 10mm nuts, undo them, pull the plastic pin up as if you were flipping it forward and there you have it, so yeah pretty basic. With regards to the heated looms I haven't done that before but have heard that is pretty simple too, as it is only 2 wires and a relay.

Struan, Get yourself down the Citizens Advice Bureau. There should not be any way in the world that you should lose out due to someone else's mistake...after all that is the point of insurance. Just keep batting them back with their paltry offers. May be worth speaking to your insurers as you have legal cover through your own insurance. Chin up mate and be prepared for a long slog..so don't give in even if you can't see an end in sight, it will come eventually and will be worth it rather than losing out badly financially now.

Should be a direct swap, without need for change of looms. Only thing that may be different is the size of the hazard switch might mean you need new cowling to go with the late switches.

yellow, The question here should be directed back at you...what do you think of Wolfsburg badges? Personally I have a Wolfsburg number plate surround that I was thinking of changing, but I like it so I am keeping it. If people want to say it doesn't belong on there then I say to them give me £4k and they can do whatever they want to the car as it will belong to them. I started out as a Golf man and my heart still sits with the Mk1 and Mk2's, therefore it is an homage to where I have come from as opposed to the car or else I would have a Mexico flag flying from my beesting seeing as part of my chassis was pressed there.

I would change the door handles. I have A6 ones on mine and they look so much better, but still flow and look as if they belong there.

You have to plan a way to catch them, dismember them, dump them and have an alibi to cover you in the event the cops come knocking. Sleep in the garage. Set up some supplies, you will need food and water and somewhere to pee. Plastic sheeting, bleach, binbags, a saw, bat and a change of clothing. Find somewhere to dump the body parts in advance and sort out your exit strategy. Read the crappy free TV supplement from a Sunday Paper so you have a good idea of what was on TV on that particular night (maybe get someone to post on this Forum under your username), and borrow an estate car (easier loading/unloading). Nah seriously mate that sucks. Is it a council garage? Anywhere you can rig up CCTV?

Check out this website http://www.mp3car.com, for more info and some ideas.

Last week they got an S6 and took it on the Autobahn to see if it would do 155...why? Was there any point to that. Then this week, someone must have jokingly said let's do the course in reverse and instead of considering it for 2 seconds then dismissing it they went ahead and did it. They should chop it back to 30 mins and spend time thinking how to squeeze links into the show rather than having 1 hour and wondering how to fill it. Anyone else notice how the first advert comes in after 5 minutes of the show and that the answer is always A.

Found a website in America that offered them for £480 including rings. Good info found here http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86106 with regard to what company to use (don't read on too far as his bottom end dies after 1,000 miles, but pistons not at fault). Best to do some investigating on the net to find out what is the best solution for you. Could be worth checking out http://www.vwvortex.com as they love Turboing their 16v's but tend to use 8v bottom ends, which could be one way of doing it as it means you can build up the engine out of the car and swap the new engine in when ready.

The advantage of it is that you can start sourcing parts, so it feels like you are paying in installments rather than shelling out £1200 in one go. If you go down the route that Gazza is taking then you are looking at closer to £2000 but for that you have a rebuilt bottom end with forged pistons wheras with the 1.8 bottom end you will still have 40k on it.

£125 Exhaust manifold and turbo for (e-bay)(£30 to cut 5th leg off) £50 Wastegate (all-Audi) £130 Bearings, piston rings (SN Autospares prob same from GSF) £45 Honing + fitting rings (local engineering shop) £30 Spacer Gasket (my mate Tim) £260 Intercooler (Rallye) (e-bay) Inlet Manifold - haven't payed for yet but try all-Audi (£30 to modify) £130 Megasquirt All the extras like, VR6 clutch (£75), lightened flywheel (£80), oil feed and return lines (£60), Braided fuel lines (approx £50), S2 injectors (£40 from all-Audi) soon add-up. But possible to bring in around the £1200 mark, bearing in mind a 1.8T engine alone will cost that, and then you still need intercooler, fuel line etc.

mrbeige, Had the same decision to make as you and decided to Turbo my 2l 16v. http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36863 Some may say that my way is slightly bodged in using a spacer gasket to lower C/R. GazzaG60 is building his with forged pistons and hopefully he will put up build pictures when he undertakes the rebuild.

Don't suppose you know what colour wire feeds back from the ECU to the fusebox then up to the rev counter on a 9A, as I have ditched the ECU and cut back the wires. I have kept one black wire (as My Clifford was spliced into it), that has a connection for the (TCI unit I think) that sits on the coil and there is a green wire and a brown wire that went to the ECU. Don't really want to lose my rev counter and any help would be appreciated as all the wiring diagrams I have downloaded from http://www.msk.volkswagen.ru seem to concentrate on the VR6. Thanks and apologies for going slighlty off topic.

Thanks mate :D

Have a look on edition38 autojumble as the owner of that red golf is selling them. Personally I prefer the non (fake) split-rim version in 9x16.

Bally, Can't take any credit for the fabrication as I get my little man on my industrial estate to do it for me. I just come up with the ideas and the cash. Dave