destructiv dave

A couple more update pics Used an S2 fuel rail, had 88mm chopped out (incl. number 4), and welded back together. Then he flipped it over and took the mounting point off the back and transferred it to the front so the bracket lines up. Another pic. Not sure whether to powdercoat it all black, along with the rocker cover, or to bling it up. Thanks for the encouragement guys. Gazza, make sure you put up build photo's as your's look like an interesting project.

It is possible to swap over the gauges as they just pull out, but couldn't say whether they will work (should do but have never tried it). There is a bulb behind the LCD. It is the same bulb as used in a Mk2 and is fixed from behind (doesn't involve taking the clocks apart unlike the three that light up the dials at the top of the clocks). The part is listed on ETKA, so next time get him to put it up on screen and if he still says you can't change it slowly push his head through the screen :lol:

Skoda Octavia?

mtc, Time up the engine so No.1 cylinder is TDC. Take off the cambelt cover and slacken off the tensioner. (5mm allen head at back of engine) Undo 4 hex bolts for the bottom pulleys (6mm allen key). Mark the position of the power steering brackets then loosen and take belt off. Loosen alternator and take belt off. Take bottom pulley cover off (2 x 5mm allen key); you may need to take the pulley off the water pump to gain space to move the cover out. Undo bottom pulley bolt (19mm 12 point bolt) renew with Mk1 Golf part. Use haynes manual technique of screwing in and levering old seal out. Renew seal and rebuild back up changing as many parts as possible or practical. If I were you I would dump the oil and drop the sump and renew the sump gasket (this also makes it easier to take the seal out as 3 x 10mm bolts hold the plate on, then you can push it out and push a new one back in). As you can see it is quite a laborious undertaking and is a seal that doesn't get changed all that often if at all. If I were you I would get it jet washed and try to pinpoint the leak or live by the old motto "Old Dubs don't leak (oil), they just mark their spot".

Gazza, Was looking into JE Pistons from the states but the costs were starting to mount up quite quickly, with a rebore and balance etc. A friend of mine is building my MS and my Loom and will be mapping it. He mapped the red 2l 16v that is for sale on here and works for Ford doing mapping. Have got hold of a solid front mount but am waiting for it to be posted to me.

Support cross member has all the right corresponding holes already pressed for the intercooler. The only modifying of the slam panel was bending that bracket up to make space (doesn't clear by about 6mm). I also need to grind off some bits off the intercooler. There is a post by Henny somewhere where he dtails the area that needs to be cut off. Darren, How do I attach the rad or intercooler on the driver's side as it doesn't line up with anything at the moment (or will this become clear when I chop of those bits and mount it in position properly). Also need to speak to you about a wideband lumenition kit (£150 jobbie). VR6Trickster, I am turbocharging my 2l 16v. There are progress pics in members gallery. Thanks, David

Mods, apologies for starting a new thread, was trying to keep this in my members gallery topic but didn't seem to be getting any answers. After some advice please from those that have done this mod. Trial fitted Rallye intercooler. Was expecting it to be tight against the towing eye bracket but it sits all the way to the other side causing this issue... This bracket for the slam panel fouled a little, so Bent it down and the corresponding one on the slam panel up Picture of the radiator support. Intercooler slots into the hole on the far right, with the radiator in the next hole along, and the intercooler slots into the only hole on the bottom part of the support on the drivers side. This end of the rad slots into the normal bracket on the slam panel, but on the other end it doesn't match up to any of the pressed holes. I also need to get my grinder out to cut off those bits off the front of the intercooler to allow it to slide under a bit more (and maybe the mounting issue will become clear). Many thanks in advance, Dave

You have to take the bottom pulleys off, then the crank bolt (replace with one from a Mk1 Golf, do a search and it will tell you exactly which one) then you have access to the seal. In the Haynes it says to prise it out by screwing in a screw and prising it out. Things that can go wrong are the four allen bolts that hold the pulleys on are made of cheese and will round so make sure you have some splined bits to hammer in. Crank bolt is very tight and is a 19mm 12 point bolt. Could be worthwhile doing a full service and changing alternator and power steering belts whilst your down there

Looks good :)

Right update time. Took three days off work to crack on with the project. Picked up a lightened flywheel from Race Power Motorsport (£80 exchange), then raced back to N. London to fit it, then my new VR6 Sachs clutch, before refitting the gearbox, then wheeled it over to fit. Engine in place. No clearance issues thankfully with the wastegate. Turbo has about an inch of space to the bulkhead so will be using some heatshield on top of the VW heatshield. Trial fitted the Rallye Intercooler, rad and fan. Was expecting it to be tight on the towing eye, but it was all the way to the other side and was tight on one of the brackets for the slam panel. So I bent the one on the body down and the matching one on the panel up Picture of the radiator support. Intercooler slots into the hole on the far right, with the radiator in the next hole along, and the intercooler slots into the only hole on the bottom part of the support on the drivers side. Tasks left to do: Finish off my loom to run the megasquirt Downpipe and boost run needed (either fabricate or get someone to make) S2 Fuel rail being modified (should be back soon) Extra Heatshield on firewall Oil feed for turbo Water feed and return for turbo with electric pump

Bought one today from the stealers and they had it in stock (Alan Day New Southgate, London).

I use Meguirs Claybar and detailer which can be bought from Halfords. Wash car, then use claybar then wax, then stand back and admire.

Darren Is the special offer only on the LM1 as I need to buy an LC1 to run with my Megasquirt. Thanks, Dave

Looking at blanking off the Carbon canister. Anyone have any views on the best way of doing it. Can I blank it off at the fuel tank end and remove the pipe from all the way back or do I need to vent it. Cheers, David

joebloggs, I live in Bounds Green just by the old Middlesex University campus. Pictures of my car earlier in the thread were taken round the corner outside my mate Rob's house (lovely G60 Golf on Porsche winter 928 wheels). Bill, Look forward to seeing your car at some shows this year. Those RS's look mint. Just need to push on with it as it has been off the road for far too long now. Once I have put the wiring back in, I then need to fit the new clutch and pop the gearbox on, then drop it back in the car. I have a Rallye intercooler, so it's just a question of plumbing it all in, then sorting out an exhaust. Really want it done by the end of May so I can take it over to the Ring sometime this summer.

Picture of me mincing. Radiator support all powdercoated. My mate Nick L's car (has a thread in the for sale section). You can just make out my intercooler in the background here. Will be using the radiator that came with it as it is significantly larger, but does mean I need to source some more pipework for it.

Here's what it will be sitting on. Was quoted £90 minimum to shot blast the subframe, wishbones, ARB and radiator support plus another £90 for powdercoat...so I got out the nitromors and stripped it down myself before taking it to my local powdercoaters who charged me £50 (ERA Rodman bros. Southgate N11 020 8361 8553) Doing little things like these just makes you appreciate the work someone like Lee has put into his polishing it before chroming it. Just stripping it of paint is hassle enough. Seat Ibiza rack from an 02 car with Febi Track rods courtesy of http://www.vwspares.co.uk and Powerflex bush. Passat wishbones with Powerflex bushes.

An update after a busy weekend work. Empty engine bay. Have stripped all the wiring out of the fusebox to engine bay, cut back wires to ECU and kept what I need before re-wrapping in Amalgamating tape from http://www.frost.co.uk/images/product_images/thumbnails/7966.jpg. Will be running this on megasquirt. Mapping will be done by my mate Tim who also mapped Peter Munns 2l 16vT. New bearings Dropping in the pistons. Piston rings were bought from S N Auto Spares E17 020 8527 1234 and fitted by Middlesex Re-Boring NW7 020 8959 2567 who also honed my bores. Spacer gasket to drop CR Back together Umm! Might have clearance issues on that wastegate. Wastegate thanks to AllAudi Bristol 0117 9494136. Modified S2 Inlet Manifold. Flange welded on by local enginerring firm to me. Modified S2 exhaust manifold. Won on ebay along with KKK24 turbo. 5th runner chopped off and plated over. Also performed by Brian from my local engineering firm N11.

Think he's talkng about lapping in the valves.

I fitted Passat wishbones to my 2l 16v (along with the driveshafts + track rods). This spaces the wheels out 18mm each side. I am running 7x16 et35 wheels on a 40mm drop. In effect I am running Et17 and suffer no rubbing and the wheels are tucked just inside the arch. I also a have a set of BMW 7x15 et24 wheels that I am running on the car at the moment. This in effect gives me an et of 6. You can see the wheels protruding just beyond the arch, but they don't catch. If you do use spacers, spend the money and buy hubcentric ones.

Think the Mk3 calipers have different fittings.

Inlet and exhaust manifold off Audi S2 with one of the runners chopped off each. A way to lower compression (1.8 use S2 pistons, 2.0 use JE pistons or spacer gasket). Turbo (S2 one will do as well as injectors) Intercooler + pipework Engine management To be fair it's all the little bit's you forget about, such as the oil return and oil feed lines that add up and when you have the engine out (as I do) you keep thinking...well as it's out I may as well do this and that etc.. increasing costs.

Morpheus, Looks nice. Never seen that interior in a UK car before. I was surprised at VW Mania last year in the campsite, that of 10 cars there only two had interiors seen in UK cars, ranging from awesome to downright ugly. If you have problems finding a drivers seat and rear bench in that pattern then I have a full VR6 dark grey interior I need to shift. They need a bloody good clean, there is a little cigarette hole in the drivers seat and they are yours for £100. Will try and get some pics for you. Cheers, Dave

johnnyfication, Humble apologies. Just perusing the shady Russian site again and have come across the same info that you posted et33 6.5 j and et35 6 j. Not sure I have ever come accross these et35 6 j BBS though, they all seem to be 6.5 j et33.

They will fit, but are not the same as the original ones. The original ones would have the bulb coming out of the bottom instead of the top (as seen in those pictures), which spaces them out slightly differently giving you different light pattern when substituting them for those pictured. Those pictured are the ones that fit behind the MFA and Milometer LCD screens. Have been trying to find the BOSCH part number (VW Part Number 357919243B), for the correct replacement part so someone can pass it onto UltrLED's as I would like to see if that makes a difference.