destructiv dave

Might it be the actuator itself that has stopped working?

Seem to recall that you can lock it so it doesn't open on the button.

Pretty sure that's a feature with all top boxes. The lid activates a rod that passes through a slot on the back of each draw. One option I have found on my Beta top-box is to not push the drawer all the way in when closing the lid. It wil mean they are unlocked but can be opened without re-arranging the contents of the garage (or shed, as where mine lives). However your set up looks like you have plety of space so I would leave the top clear and use as intended.

Radiator has two brackets on top that bolt to the panel (and slots into two lugs on the radiator support frame that sits beneath the slam panel). From memory there are 10 x 10mm bolts holding the slam panel on. One each side in the bay by the chassis legs, four on the top and four behind the bumper/grill in the middle facing you when lookin straight on. You will also need to undo the bonnet release cable.

Is this the metal triangular bracket?

Changed my foliage seal and took the door cards off so that I can have a go at the membranes tomorrow. Also took out the underlay and carpet to dry them out. Reminds me of my first car, a 1984 Mk2 that suffered similar troubles.

Looks nice and tidy.

Anton, Just collected mine. Part number as on the wiki and in VWVW's post: 191 819 166. Cost is £4.69 +Vat. I was given an 8% discount so paid £4.31 +Vat (or £5.17 in total).

Bryan, No account. They serve the public quite happily and have always given me some sort of discount, normally without asking for it. Dave

I've just ordered one from Tonbridge TPS and it should be in tomorrow. They didn't say it was out of stock/obsolete but will report back.

Is the engine turning on the starter strongly, as the LCD issue is something I have experienced when the battery has been low on juice. Might be worth you checking your battery connections as you have recently been working in the engine bay. Clicking sounds tend to come from relays. The only ones behind you in the car are the for the central locking and are behind the drivers side rear door card. The fuel pump makes a sort of feint buzzing noise. Also, you won't see any leaks, you just won't see any fuel to the injectors. I would suggest you start simple before changing things like the temp sender switch; do you have spark, do you have fuel? Check the metering head flap, check your electrical connections. Focus on the basics, after all the car was presumably running ok before you did your most recent work upon it.

I used to have a Corrado chin spoiler on a big bumpered Mk2 golf with no modification required which suggests Mk2 and possibly Mk3 chin spoilers fit size wise. Have no photo's though.

Engine mounts (well rear and gearbox) are onto the subframe with the front engine mount to a front engine cradle so no welding required. Simon, I agree with the opinions of others that it might be just as easy to look for another shell and swap over what you have, but the swap you are proposing is doable so don't be put off on those grounds. It would be easiest to have the two cars next to each other and effectively swap all the electrics over bar the rear loom into the tailgate. Other things that may need to be swapped over include the fuel pump (though the k-jet should be sufficient), rear beam and bonnet. After all people have been putting VRs into Mk2's for ages so it depends how 'factory' you want the final article.

Firstly, sorry to hear about your crash. As to effectively re-shelling your Storm into this new (old) shell... yes it is basically what you said, but as you would imagine it will be far from straightforward. However with some patience and being methodical you should be ok. Think you will need the VR slam panel or if not will have to do some fettling as the rad won't slot straight into an early slam panel. Might have to change the bonnet for a late style one as well. Not sure about fuel lines. Would imagine you'll be ok with what you have but worth checking. Brake lines will be ok, but you may wish to change the rear beam as the VR beam is slightly wider and takes beefier bushes. You will have early dash and door cards so if you want the late door cards, you could either transfer over the relevant parts of the interior loom or do a search on this forum for more info. But... With the price for Corrado's as they are at the moment, you might be able to get a cheap VR shell, and then you would only have to do an engine and interior swap.

Brilliant. Brought a smile to my face.

Dave, I'm after the ABS loom that enters the car between the heater matrix and pedals. Not sure what it connects to on the dash side as mine has been chopped off. Would also be after the speaker wiring block if you still have that along with one of your brackets for fitting a rear seat hump to a flat rear seat body. Thanks, Dave

There's a company called LWS design that has picked up where Performance Trim left off. They have the rear spoilers on their site. As for the ring it's well worth doing. I took my 9A over there in 2005 and it was good fun but the car felt underpowered on certain parts leading to me turbo-charging it on my return.

I would suggest you buy new from one of the numerous retailers that sell these rather than getting one second hand which will most likely be 18 years old and possibly just shagged as yours. If you need the part numbers, I would point you towards the search function. p.s. My final comment is not meant as a put down or to show an unwillingness to help; rather, there is a wealth of information contained within this forum and I personally (perhaps wrongly) expect people to undertake their own research as much as possible before seeking support from the forum.

This. Don't pay attention to the MFA MPG and certainly don't use it as the basis of diagnosing faults on the car. Revert to the old method of manually calculating miles driven vs. fuel used. If your real MPG is in line with other VR6's then your issue is solely to do with that one component (MFA) or how the information arrives at it. I'm pretty sure it's all done electronically on all VR's so could be a simple wiring fix.

I would recommend setting aside a few hours, go into Members Gallery, and read some build threads from start to finish. This should give you some inspiration and help you understand what steps people have taken to tidy their engine bays up. I can't think of any galleries off hand that show the engine bay of a 2l16v (as yours is), but a general read will help you understand what little touches you can introduce from changing the slam panel bolts to stainless to powder coating or polishing your inlet manifold all the way through to hiding the wiring loom in the chassis legs. Quite a few people also link their build threads in their signature (although I wouldn't recommend clicking on mine).

There was some discussion on here about fitting an ABS system from a late Mk3 golf which is apparently a more modern and effective system. Kevhaywire (currently going under the name Kevin Bacon) was selling this set up recently and that thread may give you more detail.

Some people fit a high level third brake light at the top of the rear screen. These may have been standard on US cars, but on here lights off other cars (including Rovers) have been fitted to good effect. It's well known on here that Corrado's attract tailgaters and a fair few have been written off due to being ploughed into from behind. It might be due to the general low level of the car, or possibly even the theatre of the active rear spoiler.

Same wheels (for info, Sebrings that were fitted to early 1.8 16v's), although in the second shot the centre caps are on.

If you're near Littlehampton then JMR (forum user 16vG60) is well regarded on here. Worth going there just to look at his car.

There's a stickied thread in the electrical section over on ClubGTI by Rubjohnny. This lists out the fuse box plugs with wire colours and where the wire goes to. There are also uploads elsewhere (possibly even on here) of the wiring diagram from the Bentley manual which shows all the wiring.