Tempest

I would remove that again, as those type of filters don't filtrate the air enough (compared to the standard paper elements in the air filter box), which is OK for a naturally aspirated engine, but not for the G-Lader (particularly its scroll which rotates at speeds of 13,000 rpm! When little particles that made it through the filter hit the scroll when its doing that speed, your scroll will look like the moon;'s surface after some time, as the material is a soft magnesium-alloy). Correct, as my US-G60 also has that flap which is operated by vacuum in the shown hose. I thought it was 500 Ohms? Tempest

Hmm, yumyum, delicious :-) Looking forward to this more and more. Just one more night to sort and it's all done :-) Now now, where's your faith in our trusty toys? ;-) In a modern car I'd get far more worried given all the useless electroniccy bits in there. Tempest

If you mean the Mk1 Rocco then yes, it was Giorgio Giugiaro, who later founded Italdesign :notworthy: Tempest

Congrats Jim. Right, now get signing up for events to start showing her off :-) Also don't forget to book your ferry to the Karmann trip, as I assume you'll be taking your new toy :-) Tempest

Ah yes the uprated secondary shaft bearings, commissioned by a mate of mine in Germany called Michael Arndt, who actually works for FAG :-) They have a higher temperature rating for the grease, allowing for more headroom on the max. permissible speed of this bearing. Tempest

Yup, as Jim said, going in August (see thread in events section), combined with a potentially last visit to Karmann and their museum. Tempest

Nope, not me, my only love goes to Karmann, not VW ;-) It was Karmann after all who gave us the gorgeous Ghia. It was also Karmann who gave us the even more gorgeous Mk1 Rocco :-) Shame they didn't have their own dealer network, that's why they needed VW, to sell their cars :roll: Tempest

Get those parts from VAG, as I don't think GSF does them TBH. Did my side flange last summer. The original flange is no longer available, you now get a flange where you then have to buy an additional stop, that plugs into the non-used outlet. Crazy, I know, but it seems to work. Tempest

Ahhh, that sounds like a sensible car, then :lol: Tempest

Always misread RAF as "Rote Armee Fraktion" :lol:, having lived in Germany, when this terrorist group blew up quite a few things in Germany (prisons included) back in the 70s and early 80s. Tempest

Was going to give a bit of help, but seeing the way this thread has developed ... Tempest (US-spec G60 owner, and proud of it)

On the 1990-model (like mine) yes. On the 1992 model, no, as the tachometer gets its signal from a separate controller inside the instrument cluster / MFA. Tempest

Nope, it just is held to the bottom of the tank by the bayonett-lock mechanism. Tempest

Nope, as that's the ECU's means of controlling the coil, as the G60 no longer has a seperate ignition module (like K-Jets, for example). It might help to post what you're trying to do, and we might be able to find alternative ways. Tempest

Yes. Signal to ECU actually (pin 25 on the ECU). Tempest

Try lining up the mark on the camshaft pulley such that the tin plate lies inbetween the 2 dots. That's what did it for me :-) Tempest

Try Stealth Racing in Southam. Or DIY (if you've got the right tools and a bit of patience :-) ) Tempest

That's what folks on the German Corradoforum seem to be suggesting. I'm in two minds myself, what to use for my next oil change this summer. Would liek to try the Mobil 5W50, but can't get that. Tempest

I'd get the split boost hose repaired/replaced asap, TBH. Also check the vac hose to the ECU for cracks at either end. Tempest

You could try and replace the inner wheel with the Karmann wheel, but it actually looks quite good with the Osnabrück coat of arms :-) Ahhh, brings back the memories from the days I actually lived and studied in Osnabrück :-) Tempest

Yup, same here, after numerous recommendations by the folk on the German Corradoforum, and quite a few of my mates in Germany actually using the Castrol 10W60 in their G60s, I've now been using this oil for nearly 3 years, too, but do have noisy tappets on fire-up. There has been a bit of confusion recently on the Castrol RS 10W60 oil, as Castrol have quietly changed the formulation. Based on this, BMW then complained to Castrol, upon which they relaunched the original RS 10W60 oil, rebranding it as TSW 10W60, available form BMW-dealers only, apparently. Some of my German mates have actually stopped using the "new" Castrol RS 10W60 oil ... Tempest

Only did the 2 or 3 fuel pressure tests (using a nifty genuine Crypton fuel pressure gauge) described in the Bentley manual, and after having compared the results to Steve Mac's former G60 back in December decided that my injectores were leaking, which were then replaced. The pressure tests described in the Bentley measure the pressure at the fuel rail entry end (taking in the path from pump, filter, to the fuel rail entry point, FPR disconnected) and at the pressure switch end of the fuel rail (taking in the complete path from pump, FPR, to the fuel rail including the injectors). The latter test revealed a premature drop in pressure compared to Steve's former G60. The initial pressure after having turned the ignition key was fine each time I measured it. Tempest

Set the CO-pot to 490 Ohms, 2 daily starts seem to have gone fine so far, without a stutter ... If anyone, however, has another idea as to what could be the cause of my coldstart problems, then I'm still ears :-) There could still be this Eureka-effect, where I have simply overseen something, where I then will give off my best Homer Simpson impression :lol: Tempest

A few more additions, that I suddenyl thought of ;-) Vacuum hose to the ECU has been replaced with a shiny new silicone one from G-Werks :-) Compression on all 4 pots at 11 bar. Exhaust gas test (using an MOT test station exhaust gas sniffer) on coolant reservoir (2 days ago) showed no signs of HCs That would indicate that my head gasket is still intact. Tempest

OK folks, short request for help again, see what you can make of this: My C G60 starts fine when left for say 4 weeks, now that I've started using my C on a daily basis again (as I've got my Dad to cart around ;-)), it stutters for a few seconds on a coldstart, hotstarts are fine. After the stuttery start all is fine. Changed: Blue Temp sender several times (new ones, tested old ones, determind Temperature-Resistance plots, OK) CO-Pot set to 490 Ohms, tried 515 Ohms, 550 Ohms, all to no avail, pot definitaly working tested temperature sensor in CO-Pot: Reacts (changes resistance) when blowing onto it checked ECU wiring loom several times, all connections OK used 2 different ECUs (B and CR) with 3 different chips (95-octane, 98-octane oem chips and Zoran V-Power/100-octane with 98 and 95-octane maps) lambdaprobe changed (used unit admittedly) 1.5 years ago, seems to run fine, Vince at Stealth Racing confirmed it working anyway with his wide-band probe new fuel pump fitted November tried different fuel pump relays new fuel hoses in engine bay tried 3 different FPR (including a new one) tried 2 ISVs (cleaned et al) new injectors fitted December cleaned all ground connectors and greased to keep humidity from contacts 1. Keep on noticing black deposits on all 4 spark plugs, 3rd cylinder smelled of a bit of oil this morning. 2. Keep on noticing oil deposits on bottom part of boost pipe to Intercooler (as I use a metal sieve on the junction of the 2 boost pipes going to the Intercooler, I do, of course not have an airtight seal at that point, resulting in a 4-bhp power loss, but also a simple location to reveal oil !!!). Points 1 and 2 above I have noticed for some time, and have never been able to get to the bottom. ISV was clean this morning (carb sprayed and no oily gunk came out). Any ideas guys and gals? Thanks for any help! Tempest