VR6Pete 0 Posted November 21, 2011 Did this: this is the bracket that secures the fuel lines onto the head / rocker cover... im no expert, but looks better than my lovely rusty crusty ones! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scruffy16v 10 Posted November 21, 2011 put spacers on the rear wheels as the coilies were munching the rubber, problem sorted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonedef 9 Posted November 22, 2011 Yesterday for a change I didn't add anything to my ever increasing shopping list. I took the rear coilovers off, stripped everything and wire brushed the rather grim looking threads, checked that the platforms do still move (a bit!) and then coated things up with ACF50 and rebuilt them. Today my dad collected the parts from the powder coaters that he dropped off for me a week ago....cheers dad! Rear beam, both front crossmembers, bottom arms and anti roll bar, £50, most impressed, there'll be some more parts to drop off soon at those prices. The pictures aren't great because it's cold and dark outside so I wasn't hanging about but everything looks better than new! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Meth 0 Posted November 22, 2011 Me and Mrs Meth spent the afternoon taking bits and bobs apart, hoovering, cleaning, and repairing - before refitting :) It now makes all the same clunks and rattles it used to, but now it smells of vanilla :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redfox 10 Posted November 22, 2011 Waxed my Corrado 5 times with Meguiars gold wax. will do 5 times more friday and Saturday. Should be enough for the winter ;) Cheers, Redfox. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
guildmage 11 Posted November 23, 2011 Lunch time Corrado fix: - reattached properly (black seat knob - wheel-alike-thing) on both front seats - so it is not wobbling anymore, - glued and re-attached properly rear seat trim panel (seat-belt plastic), - removed cigarette lighter socket and bent the pins slightly so the lighter sits perfectly in the socket now, - removed rattle from my bottom dash panel (driver side) - one that covers all relays, - found missing exhaust rubber mounting, that caused my Magnex exhaust to rattle a bit too - now it's fixed by cable ties temporarily until I get proper rubber mounting - any ideas where I can source that from? - found and removed a dead fly under the seat ?! poor thing ... also attempted to locate a rattle coming from "clocks area" but failed so need to look into it again - tomorrow :) I know little fixes but kind of make you feel happy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
guildmage 11 Posted November 27, 2011 busy bee.. On Saturday removed front/back seats and took them back home. Then followed "jedi-knight83" leather cleaning guide step-by-step. Have to say took me whole Saturday to do it.. but while I was on it, cleaned also dash and all plastic elements of the car interior. On Sunday morning put everything back together, went for a quick spin and now getting ready for dinner and GP... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted November 29, 2011 Got mine running over the weekend after doing the OBD2 conversion... still few bits to fix and tidy up.... Fitted my fabricated polished radiator brackets and clamps (Cheers Dave!) [ATTACH=CONFIG]50408[/ATTACH] Fitted my brushed metal gear gator surround :) (also, cheers Dave!) Comments welcome! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
<neil> 10 Posted December 6, 2011 Much needed wheel alignment at CLCM in Edinburgh after suspension change and wheels balanced. Looking forward to driving at >60mph without the steering wheel feeling like it's going to come off! Garage highlighted that my front tyres are low on tread though so two new tyres needed... 185/55/15 F1 GDS2s on at the moment but might be tempted to get a whole new set of alloys as mine are possibly beyond reconditioning... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted December 6, 2011 Jet washed the car on saturday. Took it home and washed it again by hand. Then started to clay bar it - nearly finished and the rain realyl did fall. Didnt matter too much as i was clay barring it - but must have looked nuts squirting the car with the spray and rubbing it whilst its pishing it down. Will polish and wax it this weekend after another wash. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted December 6, 2011 VR6 Pete Are those brackets for sale from Daves16v still, i never noticed the thread, i have the 90 degree ones that fit from above slam panel. But need those ones with the bit sticking out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted December 6, 2011 They are bespoke ones Dave made up for me along with some other bits... I dont belive Dave currently offer these for sale on sale to the masses... im sure he can only say no if you dropped him a PM :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redfox 10 Posted December 6, 2011 Got a Christmas present for the Corrado today from Germany: [ATTACH=CONFIG]50507[/ATTACH] Then opening it in advance (I know, naughty me ;) ), I found the cat had dragged this in: [ATTACH=CONFIG]50508[/ATTACH] I look forward to installing it ;) I also bought this, which needs to be renovated: [ATTACH=CONFIG]50509[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50510[/ATTACH] Cheers, Redfox ;) Cheers, Redfox. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted December 6, 2011 What's the shiney thing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted December 6, 2011 Replaced the seal on the heater intake mesh after finding my passenger footwell was a little damp! Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redfox 10 Posted December 6, 2011 (edited) The shiny thing is an addon that is bolted between the track arms, and stiffens up the movement of the track arms, so they work more in unison and more precise. The idea is, that unfortunately the track arms are only susprended or mounted, in one plane, not an upper one too. So they can move independently and in an unwished manner. To anihilate this or in other words make the front suspension and movement of the track arms more predictable and preceise, this arm, or bar, is installed. It is made either in steel or aluminium, and I chose the aluminium one, as I was told that it is much stiffer than steel. Likewise for the strut tower bars for front upper and rear upper, which I have been using for years with great satisfaction. That is also why I use front and rear anti roll bars which is stiffer, to make weight transfer to wheels more even when cornering. To a certain degree, untill one reaches the limit, then the warning before slipping, gets shorter and more abrupt. Still there's a longer way before that happens, than normal. Hard bushings also helps things to be more precise, at the cost of comfort, but that doesn't annoy me ;) At least that is what I am trying to reach with the Corrado. I did the same to my former Mk. II Golf, and it worked really well. Cheers, Redfox. Edited December 6, 2011 by Redfox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted December 7, 2011 It's a lower strut brace ;) ;) :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted December 7, 2011 Got started on this: Still not sure if I've crossed the line or not :lol: Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wullie 1 Posted December 8, 2011 Electric windows stopped working along with the central locking today, with the drivers window half down and a hurricane driven hailstorm in progress. Extremely unpleasant. Cheched the fuses but could find nothing wrong. When I got home I stripped the door (in the drive), put some power to the motor terminals and got the window closed. Searched on here and discovered there is another fuse at the top of the fusebox and after a bit if a fiddle got it changed and everything working. What a heck of a place to put a fuse! You need ten inch double jointed fingers to swap it. Is there any way to move the windows manually that I don't know about if the power or motor goes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hanlon 88 0 Posted December 8, 2011 Fitted 4 new tires, a gearbox with a 5th that works, headgasket kit and head skimmed and thats just to keep the daily driven 16v on the road so that i can get to work to fund my g60 project which is getting there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted December 8, 2011 replaced pass side foglight with a new uncracked lens. Fitted deflector to pass side of radiator - parts i've had lying around for at least 3 years! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Macdaddy 10 Posted December 11, 2011 Removed all the decaying engine bay sound deadning from the underside of the bonnet, quick degrease and wash. Almost ready for new fresh sound deadning. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Macdaddy 10 Posted December 13, 2011 Ordered a new rocker cover gasket, rear wheel bearing and new fresh oem warning stickers for the engine bay! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted December 15, 2011 Washed, polised and waxed for the winter - though should have done it earlier as it was a chore getting the polish off due to the cold. The poorboys wax was easy to get off despite the temperature. Started to realise the old gal needs some paint sorting and the 1 or 2 rust patches it has sorting :-( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Macdaddy 10 Posted December 15, 2011 Removed the engine plastics ready for the manifold and rocker removal at the weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites