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Jim

The "what I did to my Corrado today" thread...

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Yeah top job done there, superb.

Wish mine looked like that also, mines been on axle stands for the last 3 years,

still doing loads to it from my list about a mile long,

 

Thanks. Taken me three years & a few quid to get it where it is today. Keep plugging away at the list. It'll get there in the end!

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Watched our two daughters drive off in it yesterday evening, the eldest is getting married today and I loaned it to her as they were staying at the venue last night. Brave move but this has been a big driver in getting it back on the road this year and got a call to say they’d arrived in one piece!

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That’s a lovely story

My eldest wouldnt go anywhere near mine,too old and green in color . It gives me 6 years to get it on the road though for the youngest prom though. Good thoughts

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Thanks. Taken three years to get it where I want it!

 

A big WOW from me as well. Looks absolutely stunning!!

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Cleaned old underseal of the floorpans. Was a messy bloomin nightmare. Why people put this crap on the underneath of modern cars I do not know!

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Changed the oil, oil filter and air filter on the Corrado. I also repaired a wing mirror where the glass had become detached from the inside housing because of a snapped bracket on the motor. Amazingly I had exactly the right motor and bracket in my spare box of parts. So I was able to strip it down and replace it.

 

I need to look after her especially now. After a major issue with the family Golf, resulting in me selling it as a non-runner, the Corrado is now my daily driver for a little while.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]94879[/ATTACH]

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Just drove it, again, getting all rather predictable and dull now after ten years spent mainly on axle stands in various states of rebuild!

 

According to the MAF I managed 35.2 mpg over the 80 miles too, seems strange that after the motorbike it's the most economical vehicle we own, who'd have thought that???

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Yesterday I took both the rear hub end axles off, what a pig they were to get off, all 4 bolts each side were seized solid, managed to undo them a part from 1 that snapped off :(

Spent a good 25 minutes drilling it out carefully :rambo:

The old brake dust Shields are completely rusted through, so next job will be to clean and paint rear axle, and fit new rear Shields.

Plus I've got a pair of new rear ABS sensors to fit.

Luckily already got the new parts.

 

Rear hub end or stub axle bolts

N908 773 01

 

Washers for above bolts

321 501 119A

 

Rear brake dust Shields

N/S/R 191 615 611D

O/S/R 191 615 612D

 

ABS sensors were off Ebay.

 

My tip of the day is use a long breaker bar and loads of WD40,

and keep working the bolts back and forth, it you're not sure if the whole bolt is turning, then do what I did and look over the top of the ABS sensor and rear brake hose, so you'll be able to see the end of the bolts sticking out, here you can clearly see if the bolt is turning and not just the head of bolt. Keep working back and forth and using WD40, every so often go a bit further and the bolts will come out eventually.

Also the problem I had was the head of bolts were heavily rusted, I think they should be 16mm but mine were rusted down to 14mm and close to 13mm.

 

The one bolt that snapped off I had to drill out,

first thing to do was use a centre punch in the centre of the bolt head,

then I used a 5mm colbolt drill bit, then went up to 6mm, then 7mm, I think I might have gone up to a 8mm drill bit.

Once the hole through the bolt is large enough but not so large that you're going to drill off the threads in the rear axle, you can use a small chisel and hammer, to try and turn the rest of the bolt i.e rotate it, if it still doesn't want to move then you need to carry on drilling, but this time you need to drill in a oval movement, to create more heat and give a tappered edge at both ends of the hollow bolt, keep drilling but keep an eye on how thin the bolt walls are coming, and alternate between the chisel / hammer and drill, and the bolt will eventually come out with the axel threads still intact.

Oh yeah before I forget use a block of wood and hammer to knock the old rear ABS sensors out, if they don't move then use some WD40.

 

Believe me it's not a 5 minute job :lol:

 

Si

Edited by vw rule

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Yesterday I took both the rear hub end axles off, what a pig they were to get off, all 4 bolts each side were seized solid, managed to undo them a part from 1 that snapped off :(

Spent a good 25 minutes drilling it out carefully :rambo:

The old brake dust Shields are completely rusted through, so next job will be to clean and paint rear axle, and fit new rear Shields.

Plus I've got a pair of new rear ABS sensors to fit.

Luckily already got the new parts.

 

Rear hub end or stub axle bolts

N908 773 01

 

Washers for above bolts

321 501 119A

 

Rear brake dust Shields

N/S/R 191 615 611D

O/S/R 191 615 612D

 

ABS sensors were off Ebay.

 

My tip of the day is use a long breaker bar and loads of WD40,

and keep working the bolts back and forth, it you're not sure if the whole bolt is turning, then do what I did and look over the top of the ABS sensor and rear brake hose, so you'll be able to see the end of the bolts sticking out, here you can clearly see if the bolt is turning and not just the head of bolt. Keep working back and forth and using WD40, every so often go a bit further and the bolts will come out eventually.

Also the problem I had was the head of bolts were heavily rusted, I think they should be 16mm but mine were rusted down to 14mm and close to 13mm.

 

The one bolt that snapped off I had to drill out,

first thing to do was use a centre punch in the centre of the bolt head,

then I used a 5mm colbolt drill bit, then went up to 6mm, then 7mm, I think I might have gone up to a 8mm drill bit.

Once the hole through the bolt is large enough but not so large that you're going to drill off the threads in the rear axle, you can use a small chisel and hammer, to try and turn the rest of the bolt i.e rotate it, if it still doesn't want to move then you need to carry on drilling, but this time you need to drill in a oval movement, to create more heat and give a tappered edge at both ends of the hollow bolt, keep drilling but keep an eye on how thin the bolt walls are coming, and alternate between the chisel / hammer and drill, and the bolt will eventually come out with the axel threads still intact.

Oh yeah before I forget use a block of wood and hammer to knock the old rear ABS sensors out, if they don't move then use some WD40.

 

Believe me it's not a 5 minute job :lol:

 

Si

I work l as a technich in a main dealership most of the fully trained thchnichs whoud not have a clue to go about this

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I've been tinkering around with cars for the last 25 years or so, it's trial and error when it comes to drilling out rusted bolts though,

you've just got to take your time, and keep checking or you'll drill at an angle or snap the drip bit.

I've done that a few times :bad-words: :lol:

 

Si

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Brought these. . . . Late spec units 2ehamequ.jpg

 

MARKB did you actually fit these lenses ?

Or has anyone else tried them ?

 

Bosch part n.o 1305354933

 

Si

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The old brake dust Shields are completely rusted through, so next job will be to clean and paint rear axle, and fit new rear Shields.

 

Are you going to install a new rear proportioning valve too? I think they do go bad eventually, but is not an easy job with the rusty lines and such. Would be easier with the beam out of the car though I would think.

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Are you going to install a new rear proportioning valve too? I think they do go bad eventually, but is not an easy job with the rusty lines and such. Would be easier with the beam out of the car though I would think.

 

Nightmare of a job - luckily my beam was off the car but still a pig to do!!

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Yeah I've already replaced all the rear brake pipes and hoses, they were done about 3 or 4 years ago. One thing that does need doing though are the rear axle bushes, I've been meaning to replace them for ages but just haven't got round to doing them yet.

I have replaced them before on MK2 Golfs, they can sometimes be a turd to get out or fit.

I'm sure I've got some long 12mm studding that I used last time to make up the tooling to fit the rear bushes.

I did replace the rear brake pressure regulator valve about 14 years ago :lol:

Yep that'll probably need doing again like you guys have said, plus the bracket 191 612 407B has seen better days so will definitely get that sorted too, and the spring plus nylon bush.

 

Si

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Replaced the fag lighter with a USB charger.......then rewired it to a switched feed so it doesn't flatten the battery while it's parked up!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]94900[/ATTACH]

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Replaced the fag lighter with a USB charger.......then rewired it to a switched feed so it doesn't flatten the battery while it's parked up!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]94900[/ATTACH]

 

How will you inflate your tyres if / when / as needed? Air lines / compressors aren't always accessible.

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How will you inflate your tyres if / when / as needed? Air lines / compressors aren't always accessible.

 

Croc clips???

:shrug:

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Yesterday I sanded down the rear axle beam ready for paint, it looked really bad but was just surface rust, also amazingly I was able to unbolt the bracket for the rear brake pressure regulator valve, again this was heavily rusted thought it was a goner, but no just surface rust, plus all the bolts weren't too bad either, but I'll replace them anyway.

 

Order new bits.

 

Pressure regulator tension spring as the old one is shot.

535 612 339

 

Nylon roller bush as the old one is splitting.

321 612 367

 

Bolt roller spacer sleeve as the old one is seized to bolt, the above roller bush slides over this spacer sleeve.

893 612 363

 

Plus I'll purchase a new rear brake pressure regulator valve, as the current one fitted is 14 or 15 years old now, plus as one or two of you mentioned it's best to replace it.

 

 

As I've already got these rear stud axle dust gaurds 191 501 639A

I couldn't be bothered to sell them or chuck them out, so I drilled around the centre outer edge and cut them out, then run them over a grinding wheel until they were the same size / diameter as my old ones, cleaned up the edges then applied some rust eater along the outer edge that had been cut, then a coat of zinc paint, left to dry and now fitted on my rear stud axles.

Yes I know part number 191 501 639A is the wrong item as it's for NONE ABS :bonk:

But I didn't want to chuck them out.

So if anyone can't find the proper part or like me just didn't want to sling them out, you can adapt them to fit simply by doing what I did, if you have a spare hour :lol:

 

Si

Edited by vw rule

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SORNed it. Now to get on with the winter jobs:

 

1. All the callipers off and sent away for reconditioning.

2. Try and cure the ABS once and for all, without fail the lamp comes on at 78mph and only resets by switching ignition off and back on!

3. Fuel leaking around filler neck when refuelling.

4. Re-seal a/c pipework ready for regassing.

5. Starter motor off and taken in for a looking at, warm starting doesn't seem convincing.

 

Plus whatever else comes along. Target date 01/04/2019 allowing a short visit to the paint shop to repair ding in bonnet where I knocked garden rake off hook on garage wall and we'll be ready for Stanford Hall.

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Replaced the fag lighter with a USB charger.......then rewired it to a switched feed so it doesn't flatten the battery while it's parked up!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]94900[/ATTACH]

 

Which switched live did you use Tony? Mine is on a permanent live which was the original set-up in mine. If you could advise the connector and pin number that would be ideal! Thanks.

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Soaked my nipples overnight in wd-40 and gave them a good twist this morning :), all free now...the 312mm upgrade will be a much needed mod...also ordered a rebuild kit and some mk4 rears.

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