_Matt_

Yeah I usually do the middle picture. My jack is too short to reach the last picture, i need to buy a proper jack and keep my existing as a spare now I'm getting into working on the car. Although the body parts are the factory jacking points I feel uneasy doing it now the cars old.

Keyo - sounds like my journey too. Starting to need deep pockets to keep it going, I tell myself it's just to get it through this 25 year old refresh and then it should pain free motoring (ha). The gutting thing about resprays, if they go wrong, is that they are expensive and if not done right they start to blister/fail again sooner than expected but usually a lot longer than any warranty period would cover. That would be enough to push me over the edge too if I had paid out. I need to find somewhere to have mine resprayed and have this at the back of my mind. Not a job for a few years though.

Done some digging and found the info and pics - sharing for others: Generally - always use wood or some rubber on top of jacks and axle stands - hockey putt or old suspension top mount. These are the jacking points. Best to not use a trolley jack on the seems. Either use the 2nd pic or some wood behind the seems in the green areas to jack: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95876[/ATTACH] When jacking the the front use the green bolt or around it if also using it to support on axle stands: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95879[/ATTACH] Alternatively you can use the rear of the front sub frame, but my jack does't easily reach that far. [ATTACH=CONFIG]95882[/ATTACH]

Hi, I found this great thread but the pictures have gone http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?16534-Trolley-jack-points I want to be sure I’m jacking and supporting in the right place. So far I have only needed to jack up front. I jack up at the rear of the subframe (or is it wishbone) mounting point to the chassis. I then place my axle stand with a hockey putt on the sill jack point. I keep the jack in situ sharing the strain. Is this okay? I haven’t done the rear but any tips would be appreciated. Cheers, Matt

If the claim goes through insurance they will get categorized. You do get the option to buy it back for a small fee but it will still have it's marker. I think a lot of the Corrado's will have had paint but not necessarily due to accident damage. More likely rust repair or a refresh. Mine has had paint but it's straight structurally (as far as can be told and has been professionally inspected twice). I just wish one of the prior owners hadn't opted for a cheap blow over (or I'd paid more attention to it on buying) as I'm going to have to save for a proper job. I guess it was a sign of the times as the car wasn't worth much a few years ago.

Mine was HPI clear when I bought it last year for finance (expected) and CAT markings. Only warning it had was about a prior previous plate being registered to the Corrado now on a car with finance attached to it (volvo v60). Interesting to see as those with personal plates will find their plate comes up against old cars it was registered to. Cat D (or the new Cat N as they are now called) is meaningless to me on a 10 year+ car so I would have bought one if it was marked as such anyway. My Corrado has had a blow over and minor rust repairs which are more extensive repairs than an insurance company would categorize it for. I will be having it properly sprayed in the future too as I hate the masking between window seals and new paint - looks gash up close!

That’s another option I hadn’t thought about. Sounds expensive (2-3k?) with the doorcards as well.

I don't think the rears will go in but the front TT's will with I believe some work to the base. Then re-trim the original rears to suit. I've figuring out a a few options myself for the interior. Black leather (rare to see for sale these days so would have to buy a car with it in and swap), repair my late cloth, source cloth Recaro's and retrim rear the rear to suit or buy some similar recaro's and have the Corrado base welded on, then retrim the interior to suit. Porsche tombstones also fit with some work to the base too.

A great snowy morning whilst walking my daughter to school and a Corrado spot - Green N reg Corrado VR6 (could be a Storm) driving northbound through Potters Bar High Street/A1000 at around 08:35. Had a bit of snow on it so I guess it's daily driven and living outside (like mine). I think I even pointed to show my daughter but she'd already clocked it and said "look Daddy a Corrado"

Looks good but can see how these sorts of projects can get demotivating as they progress. I'd love to learn bodywork and spraying. I've been office based for my working life but happiest working with my hands sigh. With kids, mortgage it's not really possible to switch things up.

I think if it's going to be a mostly stock road car I would go for stock bushings. My reasons would be to keep as many vibrations and harshness out of the cabin.

It could be, I got a warranty with mine but he supplied then alarm system as welL... He knows his stuff tho, I’ve not had a single false alarm and he completely removed the original alarm and loom.

How come VW went to the effort to stick a different fuelling system in the Corrado? Was it to do with the schrick inlet (read they might have been built stock with them at one point).

I had a Hornet Maxx1 (cat1) fitted by a chap how covers Herts and Beds. I took out the old stuff too, He was recommended across other forums, he might travel to Middlesex if you were looking for someone to fit. He's done all sorts from re-wiring a burst out wiring harness on a Mustang to installing alarms in fleets of motor homes. https://www.yell.com/biz/dk-car-audio-and-security-henlow-7138083/

I have an "every car covered" cover for the Corrado. To honest I don't use it much and instead make sure the car is clean and topped up with wax (aqua wax in the winter). I found I didn't use the car as much with the cover on and you have to clean and dry the car before putting the cover on. I now use it when I know it's going to be parked up for a week or so.

Thanks Maff for the info - it’s cleared it up a treat for me! Enjoy the spin :)

Good point - must stop chasing perfection!

Probably makes sense to have a back up plan (replacement engine - I haven’t asked the q but a 24v would slot in relatively pain free) or not have any work done. Chains are silent. They could have been done for all I know. Ahhh I have an irrational love for the car and can see it being kept for years/forever so try and do things with the future in mind. But being told the bores are caked with no return would feck a perfectly useable classic. I have bought some forte seal conditioner in the meantime. The only reason I’d go as far to have all this work done is because it makes sense whilst it is apart. But if it ain’t broke why fix? In reality it’s never going to be a high value corrado with the miles. But then I’ve always said I’ll maintain things regardless of value. It’s not for sale so has no liquid value. Ramblings but appreciate the forums comments to spark my thoughts 😂 Matt

Maff - great you got your car sorted. I was having some warm start issues but installed a one way valve near the pump, renewed the pump relay and installed a new fuel filler cap (just because mine was manky and it was £8quid) and it's fixed for now. Anyone got part numbers or links for these pump though? I thought VR pumps were uber expensive (£350+ ) and hard to source. What's the difference betweens ones sold in a case and others that look like they are without a case? Thanks, Matt

ahhh I see thanks Mat, could well be an issue down there then, though I hope not. Good info. Almost don't want to get it fixed for fear of opening a whole can of worms.

Yea I do try and tell myself parts are reasonable compared to other marques. The only thing that annoys me about the corrado is obsolete parts and having to pay a fortune for a working 25 year old part. Front wings for example don’t exist but I’d happily pay 300 quid for a new pair (mine are fine fortunately). ABS parts - I had to strip down my abs travel sensor, re solder abs silicon back up. These sorts of things are usually available on other marques for a price. ABS pumps and parts aren’t available but some can be repaired by BBA Remen (I have this fault and 2 working and 1 broken pump here ready for a fix). Headlights and fog lights - tabs break, reflective material goes but again can’t source new ones.

That 964 would have epic and worth a bit today. Those prices are insane. Porsche have been a bit naughty with those engines. BMW had something with cylinder liners but they did the right thing and replaced them. I’ve always been mechanically sympathetic, the corrado is easier with the oil temp gauge but I keep it below 3k until it reaches 94-96 degrees. Else on other cars I wait at least 10 miles (and even then my daily tdi still hasn’t got its coolant up to temp let alone I assume oil)

Yeah I’ve seen the issue on the 996’s plus the IMS bearing. That and the headlights put me off the only 911 I could ever afford!! Shame the air cooled stuff is so expensive. No strange noises on mine so fingers crossed. It is a quiet engine with no tappet noise when cold either. It has had a service every year though so probs help keep it fresh. It was also completely standard so I’m hoping it’s had an easy life (ha!). I’ve installed a B12 kit but otherwise it’s staying standard.

I'll let Stealth inspect it for bore wear, I'm sure they'll advise what's best. The chains, clutch and head refurb is a package they do. I believe they send the head off to be refurbed - skim, inspect for cracks, steam, guides, seals. From reading around they've done quite a lot of them! One Q - if I was burning oil due to bores - wouldn't I see blue smoke from the exhaust regularly?I can't say it doesn't but I've never seen blue smoke and I've had the wife follow to inspect on a few occasions with full acceleration 2nd gear to redline test too. Nothing comes out. Bottom end rebuild would be +2.5k if it is bust though.

I've had a indicative quote from Stealth for clutch, chains, head refurb and gasket for 1650 inc VAT. It's going to take a few months to pull that cash together but at least I'll know I'll have a solid engine for a good few years. I thought about it last night and even if I could save a couple of hundred with my mobile vag mechanic I think I'd rather it went to Stealth as they know what they're doing and have a great rep. ... when my mechanic did the cambelt on my Seat Exeo his locking tool snapped and it took him 3 days to strip it down and get it sorted. Bad luck on him and he kept to his quote, he does know what he's doing but I'd rather not go through that with Corrado + if it turns out other bits are needed or even little thing like bolts at least Stealth will have the knowledge and materials within in easy reach.