ABV-VR6

Last photo shoot before storage, winter will be long! Too bad for the timing but winter is around the corner now, not the best to do a break-in. I ran into a few issued that are now fixed. Leaking/dried up fuel lines at the flange in the trunk, just had to install new clamps that was easy. High idle is resolve as well and now engine just purr at 760 steady. What am I going to do with my free time now??? I feel like my child just left home and I don't know what to do with myself!

Ouff... I just read those 6 pages and there's so much back and forth that I'm kind of lost! Links don't work anymore, pictures don't show as well so it doesn't help either. Fuel pump is one of the last thing in my to-do list. Mine is fine for now but I would like to buy one before I need it in the future and can't find it anymore or cost twice as much... So on a late 95 VR6 2.9L 4 bar fuel system, if I resume: 1) The car came factory with a VDO pump/swirl pot E22-041-060Z. The VW part number is 1H0 919 651 Q 2) The car came factory with a VDO sender unit 221-833-002-011 C or Z (NOT 100% ON THIS ONE). The VW part number is 535 919 673 C 3) A VDO swirl pot will work with the OEM sender or VDO sender 4) Pierburg was fitted only on early VR's and NLA now. Pierburg sender will only work on Pierburg swirl pot 5) You can't find just the pump and unfortunately we need to buy the swirl pot with it. 6) Bosch ones are not 4 bar as described but 3 bar so not good. 7) JP GROUP makes one that works but usually they make cheap aftermarket parts (to me anyways) Did I miss something or made a mistake trying to clarify all of that info?

I know you're asking me but I'll share what I ended up doing. I decided to keep the FCM because the after-run feature seems important to me. I wired my 2 Spal fans the way it was explained in this video. Works flawlessly and exactly like OEM. And very simple to do. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KeSiN2FNZoM

Ya 1551 is definitely a neat machine, kind of like it a lot! I must be old ha haa. Ok mate, I'll check output test and see if I can figure something out. Thank you for your time and help, much appreciated!

Just to add more, I found more information about the measuring blocs, it's in the Bentley (the only part I haven't read yet) page 01-100 What's described at page 01-88 I would love to do this but does it take VAG 1551 scanner to perform these?

That's true and you are correct. I was wondering if Vince upped the rpm and yes he does it. Sets it at 760. I'm still 200 over... I've investigated all the standard culprit without any luck... If you have time on the weekend, it would be nice to compare for sure!

I wish it was just that and it's the first thing that I investigated. But it's new oem, replaced with 2 more since and same idle on all 3...

Thank you mate, I was hoping you would jump in the discussion has I've been reading a lot of your advice about this on the forum. So here's where I'm baffled... The idle is steady at 960, not jumping. No codes, no flashing lights. Vince said I settled it at 760 so I'm 200 more. So far: I've replaced even if new the isv with 2 more known working ones, same thing. All the vac lines are new. So on idle I sprayed mist of water on isv line, vac lines, after maf, booster and nothing! I'm not sure what to look next to be honest! About the vag com, is there a place where all those measuring blocks are written so we know per example 003 is throttle. There must be more?

I agree it looks low but I think it is because the car has just idled yet while I check everything. So it won't charge, the fan drains, the after run drains. Weird thing is it shows below 12v on the screen but with the multimeter I get 12.6? I've noticed while idling I only get 13.5 not 14 dot something. Battery is new, alternator too?

Ok I found by searching more and also by accident... But under "engine" you go to measuring blocs, I entered 002, 003, 004 and with the 003 I got the angle of the butterfly which is 12.9 degrees. I was eyeballing my rpm at 900 but now I know it's at 960. Which is 200 more that what Vince set it. Now, I'm not too sure what to look at? The idle is stable, just high. Not sure what to look for really, all vacuum lines are new. I guess I'll spend my evening reading again!

I'm new to this and I'm wondering if someone with experience would explain a few things to me. Like all good Corrado owners, I ordered the scanner. I was under the impression that all you could get out of it is error codes? Am I correct to think it needs to be plugged without the engine running, just on accessories? Sorry newbie question! So all I'm getting is : 1) 17978 immobilizer, which is normal as it was deleted with the remap Stealth did to the ecu. 2) 00513 (G28) no signal and according to ross-tech website that's normal on obd1 car. Plus the sensor is new and oem. Here's the reason of my question. The car is idling totally fine (small lump from 268) and all is acting/working fine. But the one thing I'm noticing is the idle might be a little high? 850/900. Yesterday I was reading old threads on the forum and many were suggesting plugging the VAG-COM to know if my throttle was sitting at 14 degrees at idle as a starting point. Then narrowing down to air leaks. So, me, I thought all you could get was error codes from it? How do you access the throttle body to get this measurement? Other things I can scan that I don't know about? Sorry, this might be so simple for some of you but I never used a scanner before... Cheers!

It was this one

Thanks to all of you for the help, really appreciate it. So.... I felt like to go to the bottom of this I had to do something I promised myself not to do again after replacing the heater matrix... I only had to remove a few trims though this time and got a access to it. Replaced it with the old one and got all 4 speeds working again! So that new one must be defective I guess. Case closed, up to the next ha haa. Cheers

I looked at the sticky, all links don't work. Bit of an odd ball. So my heater was working on all 4 speed. Then I removed the dash to do the heater matrix and while I was there I replaced the green resistor "Febi" as a preventative maintenance. Now it only works on speed 4? Weird! Any idea what it could be? Defective, coincidence? Cheers

Thank mate, that's so nice. I did worked my butt off for years, I'm realizing a old dream and wanted to make it right just like the way I envisioned it. It was tough and a big challenge but I wanted to know the car and now I do, well for the most part. I didn't wanted any regrets so I took my time to build it and also to have the budget for every steps. I'm proud to have done it all. Cheers!

Thanks Hasan for the kind words. I did spent a lot of time into small details that probably won't be seen and noticed. But you did see a few! Once fully completed I'll snap a closer picture of the engine bay. I can't wait to drive it! Cheers mate

Thank you so much, what a feeling indeed. I just couldn't wrap my head around it, I was in disbelief I think. So special and scary at the same time. I had the fire extinguisher in my hand the whole time ha haa. Cheers!

Thank you very much, without your electrical help I would not be there right now! Cheers

I know Shaun, I've been busy but that's no excuse. You know what tools really helped me? Power brake bleeder, coolant vacuum pump. I've been able to figure out leaks on the brake system without air bubble. And I've been able to detect any leak in the coolant system prior to filling it plus no air pockets. That was key for me before starting it. To be honest I didn't think it would start. I was just like, well I guess it's ready to go so I could try? That was just after filling the coolant. 5 or 6 cranks mate, the sound...sublime. So I'm expecting there's going to be some hick ups at one point though. Already had to change fuel pump relay after a first scan. So I idle for like 20 minutes with some revs, electric fans kicked in perfect, flush the oil and filter. I need to get plates and I'll go for a drive like 50 miles then another flush. I hope all will be good but I'll bring some tools with me ha ha. After that the break-in will be next spring. Cheers!

Mate, these wooded supports are a game changer. Took about 2 hours to make 2 sets and just some lumber and screws, cheap cheap cheap. One full height to work easy under the car, one set half height for like you said when you need to remove a wheel, I can put the jack stand on top of it so it's not all extended. I will also store the car in winter time on the half height to be further away from the humid concrete floor. And they also help to put the car on the taller one, lift the car onto those then to the taller ones so there's no scary business jacking up the car. I chose this color for the inlet because I wanted to match the darker grey on my cover. I really like it and in person you can see a nice speckle in the powder coat.

So since the last picture, I connected everything. filled oil and coolant for the first time. No leaks. 5 or 6 cranks and it fired up, I was soooo surprised! And the sound that comes out of the exhaust, you can tell it's strong, it's amazing to listen. Flushed the oil after 15 minutes. Filled with break-in oil and in a couple of weeks, I'll go for a first drive. Just a few things to tweak prior. I also adjusted the coilovers, looks so much better. I'll have to go for an alignment too. Super exciting but timing with winter coming up and 1000 miles break-in period, most likely it will be next spring. Cheers!

And... I finally put the engine back in the car, first time doing this, did it alone and it went quite well!

Renewed my e-codes, full clean, billet adjusters

Second update, installed my H&R rear sway bar, got it powder coated to match the front one plus calipers