StuartFZR400

Dark colour C - about 4 cars ahed of me - entering Knowel at 5pm. Had the clear rear clusters. Tidy car from distance; and very curtious driver - 3 cars ahead of me kept nearly going through the back of him each time he let cars out, lol.

17's & comfort. I guess its a bit of a subjective phrase and your idea of comfort maybe a lower threshold that other old folk here, lol. The above advice certainly covers brands of tyre - great - that get you the best 17 ride. But if you are after a bit more comfort, then there is a simpletest. Forget that some cars ride well on 17's - those cars are modern or were born wallowy anyhow. You dont want softer suspension and you can make you car that more supple. Therefore try dropping to a 16 rim; if you cna afford not caring how often you buy tyres, then a set of second-hand 16 rims wont dent the bank either. The bigger 17 wheel is nice, in that the low profile 40 means you tend to feel every pimpel and ladybird on the surface.

initially looks nice, as do the Golf and Scirocco from the front (only) IMO. But you start looking at the rear curve of that, and you can imagine on a dark evening you could mistake it for a squat-Leon from the side. :pukeright:

Do you think the Ashtray warranty becomes void when you do a VR6-turbo conversion? :nuts:

Why are they imposing these lower limits? Is it becuase the roads are busier - then in that case surely they should drop the lmits everywhere where its becomes more busy - basically in towns mostly; thus drop 30 to 20, and 40 to 30 etc. Its fair logic. If its because they've re-examined the road risks and think those country roads are more at risk, then that kinda throws the rule book out the window. I'd love to have a lesson on how these Previously-nationals are actually more dangerous today than they were before. And I'd like to see how the advanced testing centres are advising thier candidates about hazard perception - surely now these roads are a 50, then they've a whole load more hazards to spot. Good luck, because that notion falls flat on its face.

Jim , not sure if you're being emotive of exagerating with words, but you give the impression these bikes were speeding; thus no matter what limit you impose, it wont help they're still going to blast-past. If they're doing the limit, they just need to give good space. How many bikes have clipped you? None for me, whereas I've had a few car mirrors clip. It must be those Leamington Moped-Hells-Rudes, lol. As for the din - hmm, some of those are illegal, but not nearly as bad as say a westfield for legality. I might be all for saving lives, but in a totally different way. As per thread title infers, I dont think Speed is the killer.

Thanks for heads up on Mag. I had given up buying the likes of MCN etc for some time now. The lazy not chaing gear, I actually try this. There were morning I had given up on making good progress and thought'd I'd make less speed and see if I could get much better mpg. Rolling along in 5th or so (clear road I'd do well on mpg), but I found my self still catching traffic; this would then result in following thier habbits, ie sling it in to a corner and come out very slowly due to lack of constant-throttle through the corner; the following dab of accelerator results in consumption increasing again. I'd try and drop well off them in anticipation but you find you have to drop to about 30 or less to as to avoid catching them up everytime. You may well be right about the getting close on Euro motorways; but my gripe is that in this country they are not aware, not looking for danger and always reactive to the lights in front. Also driving like this on A roads, means people like me who want to progress, cannot do so without chopping into a small gap - something i refuse to do in the car.

This is purely a bit of subjective rant and may well belong in the Venting Spleen thread, but I thought it to be a bit car related. A bit of food for thought and not in any way meant to get up hackles; if you're of a techy position, then look away now; It may well be just Warwickshire that has this issue. I’ve driven about other counties and actually admired the standard of driving, as it feels the Warwickshire crowd are a cut below the rest. For over a year now they have been introducing the 50mph zones in place of the national limits. At first it was a bit of a joke that they were being done on duel-carriage ways, but then I started to take note when it was also going on down the lovely sweeping A roads too. It leaves you wondering if it’s worth owning a C, something nippy, or even a bike. Somebody may be able to enlighten me as to why we are getting these imposed zones. I think I recall somebody telling me it’s to do with them getting ahead of them selves, before a blanket gov purge across the country – not sure how true that is. But I also wonder who on earth is on these west midland highways boards of decision. Are they part of the majority who drive like complete morons? It feels like the majority vote is winning; that is the majority bad drivers are the cause of the limits being dropped. I know a lot of you will say how well you drive etc, but I have to say you’re in a minority. A good 98 percent or so of people here drive totally incompetent – you can witness a serious lack of forethought and thus danger. Have these people considered the ramifications of introducing a 50 limit on what was a 60? If you were to analyse the highwaycode you’d probably come up with many reasons against this idea. First off, where are they imposing the limits? So far it’s been the busy roads (national); that’s a combination of duel-carriage and well used single A roads. This leads onto maybe it’s presumed statement that roads with higher volumes of traffic are more likely to have accidents. If this is the case, should we not be dropping the 40’s and 30’s too, as these are even more busy? (Inconsistency of hazard perception) That leads nicely onto the next point, that we see these main roads drop, but you drive past many side roads, that twist and turn more often than your medley of intestine; they are more narrow and have worse line of sight – basically far more dangerous - so where is the logic. And as much as many of us would drive these sensibly, you’ll still get farmer Giles wopping down the lane quicker than normal, because he never normally sees anyone coming as the place is normally so quiet, and the Disco has never altered course in the last 50 years. But more to the point is: should the main A road that leads into a town, should that 40 now be dropped to a 30? I mean, if average Joe cannot manage to drive the National limit properly – which most often they cannot – surely these large numbers of drivers are also not taking too much notice in the 40’s too? And where are you more likely to get pedestrians? I now live in the country and it’s a 40. I can full well understand people speed along part of it because it’s so straight; yet they seem to forget that there are houses all along it, and a good chance that Billy might be having a Dare Devil moment going a bit wrong and require a bit of run off into the road. So I frown a tiny bit; but worse than this are the people who speed in the cul-de-sac 30’s. Nearly everyone is doing it. Do the logic here; a huge majority speed in the 30, but a huge majority also plunder along between 40 and 50 in the National limits. Are these people not just ignorant to the varying hazards? Are they not aware that trying to stop at 40, in the cul-de-sac is going to be a combination of skill, fast reactions, good grip and ABS and touch of luck to miss some situations; and yet out in the National you could nearly fall asleep in if you’re only doing 50; the car will get nowhere near to engaging the abs etc. This leads onto driver awareness and should they be re-tested and a whole Pandora box of issues. So what good does the new limit bring? Ahh yes, we’ll all drive slower, more sensibly and thus avoid those fast speed accidents – remember ‘speed kills’. Only today I witnessed a TT tailgating a little car coming the other way to me. I was exiting the long sweeping bend and looking to the other end of the straight and preparing to back off slightly, and wondering why on earth the TT was not making an overtake, but instead choosing to tailgate. We pass each other – still no overtake. I watch for a bit in the mirror and look back to the road, thinking maybe the TT was a tad cold and being well looked after. When next in the corner of my eye I notice TT pops out for the pass on the little car. I’m not kidding when I say he’s less than 50ft to the bend and I can see something coming the other way (ie following me) at a slow pace; the car may not have had to slow much ,as it was already going slow-ish, but that’s beside the point, it could’ve been within-his-rights-Carradolover doing 60. I’m sorry, but this is not speed that kills – this is stupidity, or as many of you guys on here rightly point out: inappropriate speed. You could reduce that road to a 40 or 50, and that same TT is still going to be stuck behind the small car going 35, and he’s still going to leave his overtake late, and he’s still going to be met by the on-coming car doing 40 or so and its still dangerous. One of the fast A roads near me is a properly quick and a very smooth bit of tarmac. I’ve seen quite a few Corsas stuffed in the hedge and wonder how on earth they’ve managed it; ok it gets tight in places, but dab the brakes and turn the wheel and off we go – well no, actually round the bend we go – not “off”. So reducing the limit is going to save these lads? I highly doubt it; I’d bet my car on it that these lads who were up at midnight seeing if the Corsa can nudge the sound barrier (or 100), that they will still do this same test when the road is dropped to a 50. The death still happens. What – the penalty and fine will be bigger if plod catches you? Yeh, that means a huge amount when the lad or passenger is dead anyway. On a very flimsy side note; I've spoken to a variety of people, some I consider very capable and some I hve zero respect for their driving - but quite believable, yet shame, is many of them say the new 50's make them switch off; its boring and they're less interested in driving the road and paying attention. I know its thier fault, but I can fully understand. There is a small chance it does have a good effect. I’ve noticed on my main run, whereby a 40 is imposed in a previously-60, that when we hit the 30, that people are actually backing off to 35, whereas before they were travelling at 45, and only dropped to 40 once inside the 30. But I take that with a big pinch of salt, as there are still cars tailgating me in the 30, and those same cars are still going to hit 45 in the previously-national ; they still have the same mentality. Before the limit change they drove at 40-45 everywhere and now they can do it a touch closer to the legal limits – ie not be:: failing to make progress. There is no possible way the powers that be are going to intorduce re-testing and loose masses in taxes.

Very mixed feelings on doing it. But at the end of the day my conclusion would be Why Not? It doesn't cost much to join and might just help with one aspect of your driving that you find annoying, and you can quit at any time, if Im right? Reason for mixed views is that its not a set rule book (but having said that, it is a mix of Highways code and common sense - so sounds good). As said by above, its often run by volunteers. I knew somebody who was an advanced instructor, ie the guy who tests the testers. There comes a point where they need to pass the Testers, as it’s a given level of driving; in this instance it was the bike IAM. And thus you get varing abilities, many of which do just enough to pass, becoming an instructor. I've had much feedback that people often change instructors until they find someone they like; however if those volunteers don’t feel like giving up one particular Sunday afternoon, you're stuck with Boring-Bob. Also, I get the impression the BAM IAM bikes are of higher standard of driving than any of my local car IAM's, and thus very reluctant to join - especially if it conflicts with technique. Not bothered about the insurance drop. But on the plus side, Im contemplating joning the bike IAM, to do a few things. Firstly to meet more folk who like riding, and riding quick, but not deathwish style. Learn how to rider quicker and safer at the same time - safer being the ultimate goal. Generally that catches it for me on the bike, but in the car I might learn a little from how to ignore. That’s to ignore the tailgating idiot behind, that’s ignore the flashing of headlights you get when you do a very clean overtake, that’s ignoring the pressure of doing 32 in a 30, although everyone else wants to do 38 everywhere - I seriously very rarely come across cars willing to do less than 35 in a 30; maybe its just Warwickshire, but it miffs me - if they're in a hurry, they should just overtake me. Maybe IAM would teach me how to ignore all that gruff. I just need to ignore the "I Am" badge you're tarred with and shrug off some of the 'feed it' ideas. Would be quite happy to join, learn and leave before testing. It goes against the grain of thought that everyone should take the advanced test, but my reason to avoid the test would not be the standard to achive. I guess joining, theres not much to loose.

is it fixed yet? The tyres look very odd from here; but at closer glance you've taken them off the rims right? Therefore presume the depression line goes when the tyre is pumped up on the rim? (if not, then its defo' rubbing) And therefore it could just be uneven tyre wear - cause by toe or camber; both of which can come from that top mount being ultra sloppy.

just because of 1mm of snow...? whats this world coming to? LOL joke

Yeh, you've answered your own question. Child well under 7 and destined to be a midget; hence I even considered likes of Z4 and picking up c-seat en-route (only would keep car 3 yrs anyhow). However, to keep warters calm at home ,im plumping for 2+2. So you're saying the A3 is a good car? And yes, you're right, the mk5 Golf is still about 10k. And no worries about servicing, the Corrado lived fine, as will any other car in my hands; would never touch the Stealers.

Can I revive the talk , but somehow debunk many ideas above. Setting a budget close to say £7k (ish), anyone ideas of a nippy motor to buy? Put that budget with desire for cars less than 5 years old, soon enough my dream of a coupe goes out the window. I'm not old school, or a hero, or immensly skilled , so steering clear of RWD. I have to be considerate to the family so 2 seats are out; thats the tail happy Z4 and S2000, and bulky 350z out. Want to avoid ugliness, but admit I might have to go down the hatch back route - but will not bow down to the scooby route. Would prefer a VR engine over a turbo 1.8/2.0 and avoid belt replacements and turbo overhauls, however learning to be less against the turbo's. After looking at mk1 TT's that all seem to be over 10k for my limiting wish list; it seems some hatches are pricey too. However 2 have caught my eye as price bashing worthy considerations. Firstly the Focus ST, but really not my cup of tea simply due to looks. Then that leaves my second the A3 3.2 .... anyone got an idea of what these should be fetching today - say a 5 year old one? Are these quattro's the same basis as the TT? EDIT: forgot to mention Im a miser, a true pincher. My hesitation is that looking at a 5yr A3, suddenly Im thinking that when it hit 10 years old its easily going to be worth say £4k; meaning its going to be loosing £1k per year at best; not funny considering some nicer cars falls slower. Was hoping a TT might do better. Really do wish I'd caught the one I saw last year for £9.5, 3.2 54, 55k/mile, minty; cant find one the same price since; damn insurance payout slowness (which fell short of my cars worth). Help

Let us know if you get stuck; most of that is doable DIY. (see Forum wiki and Haynes for Passat if its teh 9A) Yes hose is displaying its innards - get new one. Sounds like you'll become on first name basis with your local VAG then. :)

To save you phoning the stealers, I paid out on a VW exaust on the 2.0L version; excluding cat, it came to £1,000 including discount. Can't quite remember how, but there was a mid section, and two back boxes - each bit about £300 or more; then they wanted £10 a bracket etc. It lasts a very good long while, and sounds nice - deep but not loud. However, you can get a stainless cheaper, and should last the time you keep the car - some say £300. Again CATs can be pricey, I found a place doing them real cheap up north for £80, and it got me through a few years of MOT; on a ceramic; if buying again Id buy steel. As for brakes, if its disc and pads alone, its cheap. As for anything else: 1, electricals can be a pain to fathom without vagcom. 2. Did you check the Buying Guide in the Wiki?

Hello and welcome to the forum, if you've not been here long. Check the Wiki for many of your queries. For instance, you'll find wheel information under the General Info section. Yes, that table confirms an offset of 35 for the 6 wide rim. Going wider. Well, the diagram helps a lot to explain. If you had zero offset, and made the wheel one inch wider, that means its sticks out half an inch either side of the centre line. Thats 12mm (for half an inch) by my bet - not much huh. But then you're changing the ET by 6mm, so that 18m overall change - poking out towards the arch. So will that work? Depends on how much you're dropped (lower on springs), but Im betting it'll work even if you dropped 40mm. Many other people have posted on here about using a smaller offset (making the wheel poke outside of the car). For instance here someone shows a pic of using et30 with 8j... so yeh 7j works fine. When buying wheels you also need to ensure a couple more things; first off is the centre hole - this must be the same size. Then check the stud spacing, 4x100 (whereas for instance a Fiat wheel is 4x98).

I doubt stones etc are your problem; bike discs are bare. Question is though - how hot do they get. Ever tried touching the Shield after a spin? Then again, if the rear pistons are siezed, you'll get no heat or problems, lol. Im also surprised at how its held on. If you dont want to butcher the main bolts, then can you make a bracket somehow? Got a pic of your badly rusted plate?

didnt need a pic to figure that one out :wink:

... on a plate? There are tonnes of threads discussing wheel widths and offsets. Try searching key words like 8j, or offset etc. Or 16x8 is also discussed. Basically, why not read the wheel wiki and work out what offset you need - theres a nifty diagram to help. This is when the penny should drop and you realise that a small number of offset (less than 35) means you're pushing the rim outwards away from the hub; so spacers cannot save you here. Think about it though, 30mm difference, is 3cm. You're pushing it out about an inch; assuming the rim was the same width as your original 6.5j - but its not, its wider, so add even more. Thats a fair old amount if you think your normal wheels sit close to the arches as it is. I didn't pick up if you're on a dropped ride too; the lower the car, the closer you are to those arches and better chance of fouling the arches. Hence some folk roll them out. Think brakes, think centre hole, blah. But Im sure that doesnt help you either.

Same advice applies, as HERE. As for sticky, here.

Your question being? Check the wiki for standard sizes and ET. Then check the drivetrain sticky threads for wheel sizing info, where first off you can calculate what ET you need, then look for peoples feedback on how they fitted 9 wide rims. As for tyres, above only applies if you're looking for a stretch, for show n shine. Otherwise you actually need wider, not narrower. Again see the sticky threads for how to calculate tyre size.

Could try phoning VW for some quotes for parts, for thier Servicing dept. But from memory prices from GSF about 4 years ago were: 1. expensive considering labour, 2. see Wiki for How to, cost £15, 3. normal hoses circa £40, 4. ?, 5. Discs £60, pads £40 for pairs on front, 6. Re-con caliper circa £60, 7. £? Thats starting at £200 just to do the brakes, let alone the axle bushes and fuel filter. And assuming you've the tools. But yes, quite normal work for a Corrado.

Haha, oh dear. Check everything you can think of; take it apart and re-assmeble. Some ideas: Caliper bolts (unlikely but possible); carrier bolts; etc. Wheel bearing and nut, plus hub, loose. Pads; coulbe the backing is coming off the wearing pad; they detach over time/age. Pads; are not running in the grooves properly, so when the piston backs off say 1mm, the pad only comes back 0.5mm, meaning the pad can rattle between disc and air. I found the sliding faces of where the pad sits will rust (lots), and need a good pollish. Remove rust and pads should slide easily. In this case, you want copperslip on the rear of the pads onto the piston; just dont get the stuff onto the disc. Heat shield; is either loose or touching the disc. Handbrake cable is not loose. Any metal cables ties on the brake line. The sound must be loud for you to hear it in the car though, so expecting some big movements.

No, no, coilovers are the correct term. Any spring over a shock is called Coilover - coil over shock. Its everyone else who uses it loosely; you're one step ahead already. 'Adjustable' is the key word. Yes, 16 and 17 will fit under a 40mm drop. Just always ensure correct offset, ET. Again, see the Wiki. 1. Print off the How To Guide. 2. Pop the bonnent and find the suspension top mount; take the cap off and familiarise your self with it. 3. Jack up the car, take off the wheel and look. 4. Does the How To make sense? If not, then certainly don't try alone.

Did you do it yet? You asked about mixing fluids. Best not to. The Corrado typically takes DOT4. Since then I've heard garages saying they'll use DOT5, where I cry with dispair and tell them it must be 5.1. DOT5 cannot be mixed or even used with DOT4. Read HERE for more, I've even heard dot5 will attack parts of old systems.