VEEDUBBED

I got 1 off ARZ motorsport and fitted it,they send you the compleat lever that's longer than the original version. Quite expensive but there's a definate difference in throw,fiddly bugger to fit aswell.

Use some teflon tape next time mate,i've got a few lying around in my garage. Let me know if you find 1 or i could post you 1.

Allrite kev, The current spec of my engine is quite powerfull,Garrett BB T4 .63/.70 turbo,forged pistons,inlet-as-exhaust cam mod,7.8/1CR,worked head,ports,valves etc,ARP studs,steel gasket,Tial ext.gate,compleat 3" exhaust,back to front,Mountune gasflowed .63 tubine housing,lsd(Peloquin),Weber/iaw 8 injector set-up running 2.4 Bar boost+100 shot of nitrous oxide using a 150i WON kit. I've done in a couple of riinforced clutchs so now i'm looking at something serious,possibly even a twin-plate clutch but at 1000+Euro i'm leaving it for now. Currently i've got a CompetionClutch stg.5 PP+4 puck copper disk but i'm getting fed up with the chatter and harsh engagement. Dunno what to buy now...

Right guys,Has anyone ever fitted and used one of the expensive Sachs sports clutchs?. Vr turbos?.16T?,re-mapped tdi's? I'm just wondering if they are worth 600+euro 'cos to me they look like they have the same faults as any other Sachs press. plate,i.e those shit rivits fixing the mech.toghter that can burst/snap. I see that the weakness on the friction disc has been eliminated(more crap rivits and thin straps as found on F1,SPEC and other eBay garbage). Thoughts pleeze.

OT-Kev,what clutch have you got in your turboed Vr?,anything riinforced?. Thanks.

Right,i ripped the lot out and changed the wiring and now it seems to work,BUT the needle STILL doesn't reach 70L,a few mm's below. I've already changed the inst.cluster and it's the same so bollx to it,it stays as it is..

Yep mate,done that.

Right kiddies,figure this bugger of a problem out... Right,all of a sudden,on the rare occasions i take my cursed corrado out for a spin,the fuel gauge started to signal only 35 litres on the instrument gauge,even knowing that i'd brimmed the tank. So i remove the pump and check the float and reostat thing thinking that somehow it's got damaged.After being quoted 380euro for the whole thing new i said bollox to that and nicked a spare pump off a mate. Here's the weridest thing,if i move the float arm outside the fuel tank along it's scale the gauge works perfectly but as soon as i re-fit the arm onto the pump housing and re insert the lot back into the tank,voilà, the fekker only reads 35l. I've tried swapping both senders over,nowt,they both work fine OUTSIDE the fuel tank,fit them back inside and they only show 35l on the car's gauge,no matter were i move the float arm in the tank,submersed with fuel. I've know that there's a full tank cos i can see the fuel through the fuel pump hole on top of the tank and the float arm is were it should be,at the top. I'm bloodywell stumped,wtf is going on with my bloody car,i'm tempted to drop a match in there... Anyone ever had this??.

Strange no one answered this one?,Peoquin or quaife LSD for starters and try to avoid boosting over bumps on the roads,potholes etc.

OT,did you get those switchs i sent you a few weeks back??. Back OT,i've fitted a few different boxes onto my various 'raddos,i like the used CDM vr6 gearset i fitted along with a Peloquin lsd,good ratios especially on a turboed valver. It was also very good on my old 16v-g60.

Right,i've got a spare set if you need them mate. Did you suss the problem?.

Ok mate,i'll look in my numerous boxes of bits and let you know later.

'kin 'ell,£100 for two simple crap switchs??. Try starting the car and manually open the throttle so that the stop doesn't operate the idle switch,then manually depress the full throttle switch,the engine should bog down from the enriched mixture. I've got a few switchs left over that work if you need let me know.

That's the Hall sender for the dist. mate,if your TDC sensor is faulty you need the sensor in the photo.

Snapped black feed wire buried in the fuse box...fukin Vw wiring :(

Yeah,1992 version G60,digital readout version. What feeds the black wire?,12v+,i know that the 5volt signal is present but that's it. I'm thinking maybe the black wire is damaged somewre 'cos i've got no reading at the speedo's sensor with ign. on.

My bloody speedo has stopped working and i've tried sorting it to no avail. I've tried a different cluster,nothing,tried another known good sender on top of 'box,nowt. I've even tried using a small dremel on slow speed driving the sender with the ignition on but nowt,i've got my 5volt signal on the middle wire to the sender feed but i don't remember what the black wire is,+12v?. All wires are connected properly into the fuse box and all fuses are sound. WTF is wrong here?

I've always wondered why Vw used drop links on the Vr's rollbar instead of the G60's nasty rubber bushes. Anyone know?

Very well indeed,but with the Vr6 gearset and large t4 the power's all up to were the car virtually takes off.. At least i haven't had any problems with gearboxes..yet

Here's a few photos of past and present mills built by me,if your contemplating a simuler project maybe they could help-enjoy! :D

Here they are,don't know much about the kit as i bought it but changed my mind.

$hit,i forgot about the photos...,i'm going down now to change the rear bushs on the back axle so i'll snap a few of the whole kit.

I've got a spare alignment tool left over from various cooked clutchs,it's only the shiyte plastic affair but it works no problem. Let me know if you need it.

Peeps, Has anyone ever fitted a set of Ford wheels onto a corrado,golf,passat etc?,i need to know asap if there's a huge difference in the bolt mouting (4) holes on the Ford disk compared to a 4 hole vw brake disc. Also the center hole's diameter compared to the vw,seeing as the Ford Cosworth range were either RWD or 4x4. Thanks :D

Yeah colsey, Tommorow aft. after work i'll get the kit out and take a few photos for ya.