VEEDUBBED

Dunno,but i have got a compleat mounting kit i got ages ago that i never fitted,can you use it?,save you pratting around measuring bits,the base of the thing is a G60 aluminium mounting bracket. Let me know and i'll post up some photos. Cheers.

Allrite mate, Ignore that bit about the Vr's ZF steering rack though as you've no need to go through the hassle of changing it,i just outlined what i did on my car 'cos i got given a load of nearly new Vr bits a few years back. Basicly just bolt on the Vr hubs/compleat drive shafts etc. The only other thing you'll need is obviously the rear 5 bolt hubs and when swapping over the tierod ends be carefull as they are sided L/R stamped on the (original equipment version) tierods,it was confusing 'cos i could never tell which side of the car Vw was refering to,looking from the back of the car or the front?,anyway just do 1 at a time. No need for the Vr's ARB either as there will be no easy way of attaching it to the g60's wishbones and there's no need.

Right,the wishbones will fit but have a different anti-roll bar end fitting compared to the g60,the vr has little uniball type attachments as the g60 has rubber bushs that bolt onto the wishbone so you'll need the vr's roll bar aswell. The ball joints are the same on both versions but the tie rods are different,you can use the Vr's ZF steering arms on the g60's TRW steering rack but the vr's arms are longer and the inner threaded portion that threads into the rack's ram won't go all the way in,but i've been running a Vr6 ZF rack on my g60 for a while and i've never had any problems,unless your running 205/50/15" tyres,then the tyres will rub,especially if your 'raddo is lowered. Hub bearing housings will go on but hubs are different as the vr's cv joints have a bigger splined shaft compared to the g60's versions,they are also glued into the hubs when new and are bastids to remove.. Just bolt up the compleat Vr driveshafts/cv joints onto the g60's 'boxs output flanges. The Vr's subframe has a different engine mount compared to the g60's mount so why bother? I think that covers it,i can't think of anything else but as i've got the flu and i feel like $hit warmed up double check my advice anyway,it's been a few years now since i swapped over Vr bits onto g60s. Cheers.

Fill the bugger with sawdust or maybe try using some kind of additive?,slick 50,stp etc.

Grab hold of a 12v test lamp and see if 1 of the brake light switch wires is live,i think it's the red with black stripe wire.Check the contacts inside the bulb holders for any corrosion and also the harness plugs that plug into the light clusters.

Hi mate, Forgot all about this one..,i changed the slave and master cylinder and flushed the whole car's clutch and brake systems using Ferodo 5.1 racing brake fluid,totally transformed the clutch pedal 'feel',especially as i have a Competition clutch stg.4 racing clutch fitted aswell. I used a Mityvac pump to do the job single handed but if i'd do it all again i'd use a Gunsons eezi bleeder,when you use this tool it comes with a selection of different caps so you'll have no probs. Make sure there's enough air in the tyre though.

Right chaps. I wanna know if 1 can buy a set of all red crystal rear lights,i've tried the american stick-on film that looks the dogs but it bubbles up,no matter how clean the lenses are. Woose done what?.

Right peeps,what's on the menu for clutch cylinders now for our ancient corrados?. Both mine were buggered by the uprated clutch so i need both. I don't think that the stealers stock 'em anymore so it's adaption mode from another Vw. 3rd series golf?,passat?. Whoose done what with what?. Saluti :D

Probably...,but i don't think it'll cost much.

Well you've basicly answered your own question regarding pistons/rods,buy forged components,fit and forget(hopefully). I prefere old skool 8.1cr but nowadays with modern ecus and good injectors you can keep the static cr quite high. At the end of the day the most important part is in the tuning. buy a good wideband and exh. gas temp. gauge aswell,also a mechanical fuel press. gauge inside the cockpit is very usefull.

...And replace the shiyte paper version with the 9A's far superior metal/rubber jobbie.

Check also that silly little return hose stub on the expansion bottle ain't blocked. Are the internal heater matrix's hoses hot?,both of them?.

If i recall the 9A's tank has a smaller opening compared to the Vr's fuel tank. What are you trying to do?,fuel lifter pump packed up?

Checked the bugger,it works fine. I'll check the wiring...

I reckon about 3 years old,strange thing is that with the other clutch it didn't do this..

Right then lads, I've recently fitted a Competition Clutch stg 4 clutch in place of the other carbon/Kevler garbage that i got from the states as it slipped badly even after the break-in period. The clutch its self is fine,grabs like a mofo but that's to be expected,as i've only done 50km/s distance since fitting it and i need another 450 miles to finish. My big problem is that,apart from the hard pedal,is that the clutch has a different biting point. When cold on first starting/moving the car the clutch has about half an " play so,even if it grabs, i can atleast pull away.The problem arises when the car is at normal operating temp.,i loose all play The clutch bites and drags as if the clutch slave cyl. doesn't push the clutch in enough to engauge the gears and i'm left with only a few mm's of play. Faulty master cyl?,old fluid?,faulty clutch?. Cars gettin on my fu$$in nerves now..

WTF is going on here?, After changing the clutch on my ride i've just noticed that the speedo has now become a rev-counter.Here's what happens:start car,if i don't move the car the speedo's needle don't move,if i move the car the speedo needle registers engine rpm really bloody weird... The speedo still works but also registers the revs aswell!,say i'm at 60km/h the needle stays on 60 but it also moves when revvin :( Anyone ever had this issue? or is it a VEEDUBBED induced defect. This car is turning my hair white...

Not allowed mate,the car won't pass the MOT for a start as it's forbidden to to fit even an 'effin strut brace for gawd's sake. Forget aftermarket exhausts,4" tail pipes,added on turbos(me..),external mods but definatly bigger wheels,brakes etc. You can put on bigger wheels but if you stopped and the rozzer on duty is in a crap mood you lose your car 'cos it gets impounded and costs 8Euro a day at the pound+a heafty fine AND your forced to re-take the MOT with the car as it left the factory. I'm ok with the turbo as my car originally left Germany as a G60 so on the log book it states that my car originally was force fed but if your ride is NA and turbo it,your risking big time as well as the fact that the insurance won't pay in the event of an accident. So peeps,if you love modding cars,bikes and gawd knows what else AVOID Italy :(

Hmm,good point,would it be faster? but would it be faster than mine that's runnin a hybrid ball bearing T4,8 injectors,LSD.modded gearbox ratios, modded cams,ext. wastegate,compleat 3" exhaust,short manifold and 2 Bar turbo press on a 7.7/1 CR. BUT still the original bloomin brakes... I don't see 288mm brake discs doing alot to stop my car on full chat. You people are sooo lucky as you can do almost whatever you like to cars,ain't happening here..

Right peeps,I can't get the dam car outta my head. The Corrado's a fine car,especially turboed like mine but at the end of the day i still find myself stuck with a car that's FWD,i CAN'T change the wheels onas it's against the shit Italian rules. So i've got a very powerfull mota but 280mm brakes and 15" wheelsnothing bigger is allowed! I've come across two for sale quite near me so i'm thinking of part exchanging in the 'raddo for the omega. Has anyone got experience of the Lotus carlton?,i remember that the spares situ. was horrendous and the gearboxes give trouble as did the clutch fork mech. Enlighten me with some ideas. Cheers.

What are you drivin mate a 'raddo or a steam engine?. That's the first i've heard of any device like the 1 you mentioned. Sounds like a duff fuel pump,can you be more specific?,does it make the noise when the engines hot or cold?

I bought a set of JE forged jobbies off a guy who is on the Vwvortex,i got an exellent deal,fully heat treated on crown and sides and with custom CR specified by me,his name is Rodney Huss. Apart from the pistons also think carefully about engine manegment,here there's no corner cutting allowed. I fitted Weber/Pectel managment taken off a 4x4 Saff. Cossy,the 8 inj. version and it goes fine but will obviously have to re-map sooner or later as the engine has a small flatspot right after idle. I would also get a stronger gearset and poss. uprated clutch. As you can see,it's gonna cost...

Allrite then peeps, I've done a few turbo valver mills in the past so i can offer you a few tips. The 16v rad is ok for cooling if your not running insane boost,the most important thing is to bin the oil warmer fitted as standard,it's no good for FI. I used the oil cooler fitted on the Lancia delta evo-1,very fragile as it's made of Aluminium but does a good job. The Vr6/G60 660mm OE rad. is superb,ideal for turbo motors. Old Volvo 740 turbos donate their oil cooler sandwich plate and adequate 16row cooler aswell. USE the metal OE headgasket fitted to the 2.0ABF long block mill,it fits straight on the 9A/KR blocks no problem,on the 9A2.0 block just tap down 1 locating pin and enlarge the gasket's hole. Junk the OE inlet manifold and get a short version,this also greatly improves acsess to the camshafts. Bin the 9A cam and get either a KR inlet or modifiy the KR's 'zorst cam and fit that as it's got nearly 2mm more lift. Watch it when milling down the OE pistons as the most you can safely remove is 2mm,add 2mm taken off the con rods by offset bushing and you'll have around 9.0/9.2-1 CR,perfectly useable but i would'nt push more than 1 Bar absolute turbo press. as the engine tends to detonat around the edges of the piston possibly destroying the ring lands. Forged slugs are ideal and are much cheaper now than 10+ years ago when i started fiddling around. If i think of anything else i'll post it up.

Welcome aboard matey :D Grab the head off the KR mill along with it's cams and bolt it onto the 9Ablock,change the pistons to forged jobbies and then turbo the bugger. Have fun!.

Or if you can't find 1 for a 9A get a g60 shell instead,they are the same.