Supercharged

Might be worth buying the metal water pipes mate while you still can, they rust internally and this restricts flow... Could also be headgasket starting to fail I suppose but I would think you'd see an excess in pressure in the cooling system.

Standard VW parts...

Paint thinners mate (Halfords etc) and a glass scraper maybe but should come off easily!

http://www.capitalseating.co.uk/product ... d=61&mid=2

You just need the standard kit off a SEAT IBIZA CUPRA, 305mm discs with Brembo calipers. Used to be about £500 for the whole conversion from SEAT but now around twice that - Badger5 is the place to buy

Of course - that's exactly why VW offered 15" steels to fit the 280mm G60 discs

£120 - £150... Sets of 4 straight ones are becoming rare these days!

Yeah it's due then... Eeziblled makes it simple or if you need a full fluid change you might just want to get VW to do it for the sake of £35

That sort of stuff will actually be cheaper through TPS than GSF etc - service parts are really well priced now and GSF seem to be less competitive.

Pedal boxed don't tend to go on the Corrado so yeah maybe the hydraulics... When was the fluid last changed?

Eh !?! Calipers are £120 each, brackets and pads cheap enough and you can use with standard G60 discs. You'd be suprised at what you can fit under 15's - it's just finding the right combo!

Hi Matt, these engines don't like being run upside down mate! :) I was going to suggest it might just be gearbox whine transmitted into the cabin from the solid mount (you will get a bit) but as you think it's from the timing belt area then yeah I'd be worried and I wouldn't drive it until sorted! Think carefully - you didn't loose any nuts / bolts / washers etc when doing the cam cover?? Have a look at the inside of the belt cover for any signs of orange (rust coloured) swarf from the bearing in the tensioner giving up... The tensioner is eccentric (for tension adjustment) but it should NOT look like it moves about when going round (hopefully you see what I mean) - have a good look at this and change it anyway if in doubt. As above - use a genuine one always and if it had started to go, bare in mind the the timing belt life will be shortened - change this too if it's gone shiney / cracked from running on a worn tensioner. Crank bolt worth a check too! I'm happy to pop over and have a look for you for a bit of petrol (well, aviation fuel) money :lol:

Worth trying to find a steam cleaner service that does cars - there are a few about... Usually charge around £50 for a whole interior and you won't believe how much dirt gets lifted out and how clean your interior looks - basically most car interiors have never had a proper upholstery clean and this is the way to do it!

Edit - as I thought, advice on this already given in this thread... viewtopic.php?f=23&t=77137&p=896083#p896083 Please do not cross post and start new topics about an existing issue - I makes it difficult to see what's already been tried / suggested and the general history of the car / issue!

Deffo a hydraulic leak, often hard to spot if it's the slave as it leaks internally to the gearbox bell housing... I wouldn't drive it until fixed now - if it's this bad you can damage the clutch fork or the gearbox itself I would change the slave anyway as a matter of course - especially if it doesn't look new (alloy unpainted part)

Hi Alan, sorry hardly been on here recently and only just got your PM's... The info me and Yan posted was from the proper VW Workshop manual for Corrado Running Gear - this gets updated with TSB's so is always more reliable than the Bentley etc... Good to see autodata actually have the correct torque info for once too although there is a bit more of a procedure to it which I think we have posted in a thread. I think as you've found it depends on what's actually on the car but the procedures are critical for the longevity of the new bearings.

A good retrim will cost nearly as much as new... The are £230 + vat that seems expensive but I'd rather have a new one than 3 Momo's!

Do you know what bearings were used?? surely still under warranty???

From what I understand 02A box's require a GL4 based oil and 020 a GL5 GL4 is a syncromesh oil and GL5 is for final drives, diffs, transaxles... The VW stuff is pretty good but i've always used Redline and found it to be worth the extra £ On my 6 speed 02M box I was advised not to use Redline and a change of the VW stuff didn't make a difference to it being notchy when cold, as above I couldn't find if it was GL4 or 5 so I used some Silkolene SynTran Syn 5 which is GL4 and 5 spec and it's made a huge improvement to the box - was the same price as the VW stuff as well after discount from Opie oils. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-850-silkole ... r-oil.aspx

10k miles is insane - should last at least 60-80k if not twice that... Are those rear ones? - if no it will be due to poor quality bearings, incorrect fitment or a worn stub axle. As Yan says, fitment is critical, taper style bearings need grease working into them before fitment which is where most people go wrong, I've also need people pack the dust cover with grease which makes the rear seal pop out.

VW bearings are £15 each for the kit (SKF bearings) - I wouldn't use anything else at the back as pattern ones don't last and can be dangerous! Yes i'd change both if original along with brake discs, pads and ABS cages.

If its got ABS then you should pressure bleed only - either buy an eezibleed kit or take it to your local VAG dealer.

Yeah you can buy the oil but I just chucked my Halfords Jack after 5 or 6 years and bought a new one, It was working ok but was getting creaky... It had done well for £21 so I just bought another the same, it's safety at the end of the day!

Ooh so it does - that was the other thing I was looking at... Shall I get you one Yan?

I dunno but that baking tray looks perfect for gearbox oil drainage :lol: I've got a fairly decent comp and various tools but I might go and have a look at that hosereel