Supercharged

Not quite, same size pistons but the ones for the 256mm setup are not as wide as the 280mm ones... It's fine to use the 16V calipers with 280mm carriers and discs but you would have to stick with the 256mm type pads which are the same profile but less friction material so they just fit as the discs are also 2mm wider...

6-7k for insurance valuation G60's hold there value more than any other model at the moment, If you wanted to sell it for 6k you'd get it Skid, just a case of waiting for the right person to buy it...

Or a lambda probe tool and brake allen key if it's 22m, if it's 21mm then just use a 14mm spark plug socket

I was thinking that but maybe it's just the Track Rods that cause the bump steer or make the biggest difference as they are dirrectly connected to the rack... Tempted to give these a try as mine drives almost perfectly now, i'd be well chuffed if this sorts it completly!

Great write up and pics David! Do you find it drives any better?? made a noticable difference to mine but it had done nearly 200k miles... That plastic trim is a lot more solid too, more like the MK3 Golf

2 wires run to the locks in the handles, these connect to a switch that activates the C/L when you turn the key (and also the full closure) You just need to unplug them inside the door or insulate them if they break off the handle (likely) so they don't short and unlock your car when parked up etc

You simply need the rear handles that look identical to the corrado ones but without locks and the mechanisms to go with them. When you swap them make sure you insulate the wires for the CL switches that ran to the old handles.

Thats too low - all VW's are calibrated to sit at 90 (half way) when warmed up Was the stat tested before it was installed??

Not tried the 3000's but I am on my second set of DS2500's with a standard 280mm setup and I have to say they are awesome, twice the price of what the Pagid Fast Road pads used to be but definetly worth it! I don't really notice any major difference between hot and cold, they bite well initially and even better when warmed up - have never experienced fade like other pads altho have not used on track. I'd agree with the discs comment above as the first set I had ate a pair of standard discs fairly quickly, I am now using black diamond's and they are showing no wear after 4k miles. If your sticking with the 256mm discs I have a pair of new Black Diamonds for sale if needed and I work in Ipswich...

I think you need to check the nylon vac pipe that runs to the clocks

We're talking about going from rear Koni TA's to these tho Kev - remember the rear Koni's come with new hardware for the top mounts becuase the thread size is larger - and them you have to drill out the top spring plate too

No worries - those rear top plates need drilling out for the larger threads on the Koni's so make sure those stay with them also (in case you sell them etc)

The problem from there point of view is the UK has such a problem with Credit card fraud and they cannot insure against it... do they take AMEX?

Yep - you need the standard VW bits - the bits your trying to fit actually came with the Koni's... Either order from VW or get off a Mk2 or 3 golf in a scappy if you've not got the originals...

Which address are you using as they don't advertise one as far as I know?? Vince only deals with the emails at home in his spare time so it's best to ring if you need a quick response...

Hi MAtt - I *think* you can get 5x100 discs off an early Passat that is not plus suspension that will give you the same offset as the G60 ones...

This should fix it mate.... viewtopic.php?f=13&t=73490

Get an eezibleed first and see if that sorts it... You could have popped a wheel cylinder - these should be checked yearly anyway as part of a service (not part of MOT) - you need to take the drum / bearing off and inspect under the 2 rubber boots where 2 small pistons activate the shoes - any signs of fluid and you must change them - they need changing roughly every 80k miles so if the car has done 160k then they should be up for there second change!

What engine is it?? If it's non-abs then MC doesn't need bleeding. How were you bleeding it?? - if manually pressing the pedal then you might have damaged the MC, get an eezibleed kit and try again... If it's a CL / GL model (drum brakes) then you need to get the drums off and check the wheel cylinders for fluid leaking under the seals.

Yeah bearing just presses in (by hand) - it's only plastic cased too!

PS. I have not bled the brake system since I reconnected the load sensor. ^ surely thats your problem? It really needs to be pressure bled with the valve clamped open...

Stealth Racing have done several of these over the years, the biggest expense will be the custom pistons

Good discs and pads are key - I have some brand new Black Diamond Vented 256mm discs for sale if you don't want to change to 280's

As above, a wing will cost £20-30 in cans let alone a whole car... If you want to do it yourself you only need 2 ltrs of proper paint (£40 a ltr ish) and you could buy of borrow a compressor

How are you bleeding it??