Supercharged

48 PSI is the spec so prolly are within tollerence but it's the same as the 1ltr of oil per 1000 miles - would you really be happy with an engine using that much! HG worth doing if you have the time / skills but otherwise it will probably be ok till next year unless it's exhaust gas pressurising the cooling system...

Get a mirror on a flexible stick thing.... There is a circlip that needs releasing, you'll also need to release the vacumm pressure(?) in the servo by pumping the pedal a few times with the engine off, doesn't touch the fluid system so it's a straight swap really - just awkward to get to!

There is a lower and an upper cover - assume you need the upper only and there is a bolt that holds it on. I'd buy a new one from VW as they warp with age / heat.

Yep Wr6DPO are the only ones that last and they last ages! VAG or GSF

The main ones are Number 10's by 16 mm

Yeah I got one of these - some nice new tools now available too - Halfords Advanced range... They now do a 3/4 socket set - bit overkill for the Corrado tho!

You sure the old motor was knackered - sounds more like a bad earth to the gearbox after the clutch change... CPS is around that area too...

I think the shark fins are made for DAB or SAT NAV really, not FM signals....

It will fit but I don't think they screw on as they are the same as a MK4 Golf.

Nooo! K= Karmann (Osnabruck) L is the model year (1990) Accoring to the serial number yours rolled out the factory in July sometime.

Dogging circles knowing Tom... New Dampers from VW used to be £20 for the rears but they are more than double that now! The 20% firmness probably just means they are gas, like the VR and maybe what the 8v has as standard too, VWspares sell Sachs/Boge OE replacements at good prices!

Yeah TPS or just a decent discounted dealer price... Coolant Flush is G052188A3

Welcome to the forum... I'd advise trying a new ECU and fuel pump relay and also an ignition switch if they have not been changed recently, may not fix the issue but will rule three critical components out. You really need to get it on VAGCOM to see if any fault codes are being logged.

Yeah just the hub itself... You need to remove those screws and get the puller back on it but tbh might be easier to take the whole lot off and take to a garage with a press, get new bearing and hub at the same time, only issue with this is that it will disturb the camber angle.

You tried GPC - they used to keep these instock at £19 a side.

Only just had a quick skim of this mate but pump looks ok, new ones are only £22 from VW trade and you want the cheaper one with the X at the end of the part number, the other one is just the impeller half and not exchange. Buy all new bolts, stat and plastic housings. I'd also think about new metal water pipes too as I remember your coolant was really bad when you drained it before, VW also do a special flush to try and stop corrosion in the water system. Block looks fine to me, but i'd flush every pipe / rad thoroughly before connecting things back up again incase you have an internal blockage. Those infared thermometres are useful in finding coolant hotspots, RAC etc carry these on the vans now so if you are still having problems after maybe give your breakdown a shout...

Are you trying to remove the wheel bearing carrier of just the actual hub itself?

Yep, indicators never been £50 - it's the fogs that are pricey!

belfastmunchu, thats rubbish - go back to your dealer, that black and red hose isn't available any more but the plane 8mm ID water hose that replaces it is about £2 per metre, you need slightly more than this tho (TPS customers will need to buy 5m @ £10)

Hmmm - I thought they did use the sleeve for the standard rear bush but you needed to swap it when changing wishbones... I would get the TT bushes as these have a 12mm hole so no sleeve needed.

Yeah got mine out in 90 mins - anyone who removes the whole dash is mad!

He's got them right for the early bits, but year the later stuff keeps things tidier... front bump stops don't really wear tho

The adjustment is on the metering head but I really wouldn't touch this unless you know what your doing... It's more likely something else is wrong or you have a sensor down, you need to get it on a diagnostic machine

Moving...

Same as mine, 70k is a fair amount of miles on british roads but i'm still not impressed at all with the quality of FK considering they are not a cheap product They are rebuildable but the dampers from Koni for my Konigsports were going to be £100 each and the spring plates etc were falling apart... I'm now running on OE VR6 Gas shocks and H&R springs and the handling is superb and I have ride quality again!