Supercharged

^ Deffo the soleniod on the starter motor thats gone there, new exchage starter from VW is the way to go!

That means the thermoswitch is only working at the second stage (ie it's 'failed safe') - cheap and easy part to change (30mm spanner needed) 1 = 84-91c 2 = 95-102 c

Yep, GSF are stopping selling the Brembo kit as they are getting so many returns - I would take them back especially if you have them on the same reciept as the pads! VAG discs all the way, properly balanced and last ages - G60 ones are £21 each (+vat) from TPS so as cheap as anything else out there!

Have you tried 'jiggling' the key when this happens?? If it's just started happeningmore in the hot weather I'd say it's mre likely to be the starter solenoid sticking but i'd still change the switch anyway if it's not one of the new black 6N0 parts.

Could be faulty mate - got the part number so I can check it?? If it's 3 pins in a row (---) I have a known good spare I can send you.

You also have to be careful using cheap testers on the 16V's as they sometimes get stuck! - Stealth have had 2 or 3 cars towed to them before when this has happened - ie make sure there is a nut and you have the correct tool to remove! A lot of people also don't realise you have to set up conditions for the test - ie warm engine, FP relay unplugged or (fuel rail wiring) and throttle held open and crank for 5 secs

I'd rather know if my pads are about to wear out and 5mm from 19.6mm sounds like they are below the wear limit (without checking) Also, if the piston comes out to far you can damage the dust seal.

I think the 4th should be there if it's in the loom but yeah, it earths thru the bracket ontop of the rear engine mount like the G60 - I have run a seperate earth strap to the exhaust manifold from here as it's a known failure point (the VR6 earths back thru the loom) The harness connector usually breaks do to excessive engine movement (ie mounts) VW do repair wires for these plugs - if you need one Ted I can post one out to you, just PM me your address. Also check the violet wire - this is the signal wire!

Inlet is one whole thing, exhaust was a one-piece originally but is now 4 seperate ones

I'm looking at dooing this with Lupo / Polo parts for 4 stud and it looks like it will work but you will need stubs, bearings/hubs and MK4 carriers (steve at C&R has stocks of these) I have a 5 stub bearing / hub assembly for ABS (brand new VAG) with stub axle I might sell... (I only have the one side and I bought it as I was going to do a 5 stud conversion)

mate - I assume the fluid is up to the level of the pipe that feeds the clutch master?? did it bleed ok>?

Yeah - as long as you can get the access to get a socket round the head of the bolt the bite into them and get them out - even brand new pefectly round ones... Screwfix sell them cheaper than anywhere and I think the trade counters are doing 10% off at the moment altho that might have been till yesterday... Make sure you buy a genuine VAG gasket which comes with some sealant already on it - the GSF ones are awful and even the ones in the Elring headsets are poor compared to the real thing - also make sure you get the right one as there was a change in engine number.

Yep - Irwin bolt grippers are awesome! In theory you can get the inlet off (obviously you need to remove the brackets etc) but it is alot easier with the rail out the way. This pic might help you -

Blackcorrado - I think you either have a fluid leak or air in the system... The master cylinder might have dies as a result of the slave being faulty as it will put more strain on the other component.

What coolant concentrate are you running?? Is the pump and thermostat working do you think? If you suspect the HG, take it to a garage and get them to check for hydrocarbons in the coolant.

That sounds a bit high - any signs of arcing? VW leads are fitted with 5K Ohm resisters for supression so that plus the lead itself should be within the 5.5 - 6.5 K Ohm range Just change em if in doubt, 16v leads aren't expensive these days - £30 for the quantum ones thru VW / TPS or you can buy individuals or even the bits like the ends on there own,

They fitted these at various points in production, late and early... I assume they just ran out at some point

:camp:

I'd like to know this as well as I have some Mahle shells in the garage which I am not sure are the right ones or not... What are the part numbers on yours?

Yep - 5 stud = M14, new bolts are about £2 each from VW

Yeah Bentley is useless for brakes as the US abs system is completely different... You really should cap off (not clamp) the lines when changing calipers so you don't loose any... Also worth mentioning that i'm eezibleeding at 20-25 PSI which is higher than recommended by Gunsons altho an ABS system should run at a higher pressure... Be good to find out what pressure VW use on the machine but like I said, it's not worth messing about for the sake of £30 - just take it to VW if it's drivable.

...and I once had to change my name to Upercharged :(

Rear Corrado badge in primer was about £8+vat last time I bought one and still available... this silver ones and also the VR ones are now obselete I think. The VW centre badge at the rear is about £11 (just purchased a new one!)

The blue 4 cyl H&R's are actually designed for OE shocks, this is what I am planning to stick on the TDI for a good daily ride quality

Not really - I've always done ok with Eezibleed but if it doesn't feel right it's well worth taking it to VW or a good garage with proper industrial pressure bleeding kit and get them to stick some fluid thru it... worth also making sure the bias valve is working ok as the rear brakes working properly has a big effect on pedal feel! If you ever get air into the ABS then you need to use VAGCOM, it's a procedure that involves 2 mechanics and 50 presses of the brake pedal in sequence - not something I ever want to do!!!