Supercharged

If both calipers are not working (-discs corroded / not clean?) then it will most liekly be the bias / load valve seized under the car - may just need free-ing up with some WD40 and a hammer...

Do you mean the copper bush?

There are a couple of screws/bolts you need to undo in the engine bay IIRC

I have one for sale - see my clearance thread in Parts for sale...

repairable - see the knowledge base artical If not then Capital Seating are the place for recaro spares and may do this...

If it flashes 30 secs after start up it must be a sender or level issue as it's won't have time to get that hot.. Air lock maybe causing the other issues too - it's not unusual for a car to run at 100c for a bit after engine work, should settle back down to 90 once te coolant has circulated a bit.

Dodo juice seems to be the wax of choice at the moment...

Ah ok mate - will let him know! Good man for sorting these - we appreciate it!

Where did you get the Haystack docking station?

Nice one mate - I thought you'd sort it eventually... Another chap who paid was my mate Gazman Get that G60 sorted dude 8)

Majik, hello mate - still got your G60?

I would buy and fit and new ECU relay, FP relay, ignition switch, fuel filter and BTS if you don't know if they have been done recently and go from there... Could well be the hall sender (in the dizzy) starting to break down

Do the slave first if original (black painted not alloy)

It's just experience matey - you change 8-12 year old parts for new pattern stuff, it lasts another 2 years if your lucky then you go back to genuine - you'll learn :)

Yeah cheers mate - we have in issue with the WIKI at the moment but yeah there is lotrs of stuff that needs adding - might create a new forum for it where we can hold that info for now... will speak to Andi

Bare in mind it will run like a 1.2 not a 1.8 becuase of the low compression.

Yeah that pic is correct Riley AFAIK - I always look for the belt just starting to lift away from the pulley before the first dot... I don't know why VW made it so unclear how to line these up as with the engine in situ you can't get a straight look at it as the wing gets in the way, I think so many must be running a tooth out because of this (like the guy on Dubforce!)

Cool - thats good info to have, same as most brake fittings so bolts can probably be got from bike shops etc - I know mine is rusty as fook!

The main thing is the genuine (UK made) Marsden rads have more fins and are much more efficient at cooling these engines... My G60 is still on the original 15 year old one and my mums MK3, now 10 years old still looks new

Please use the search!

Screwfix do some nice chrome ones...

Neil - if you want the KS then £30 posted to you.. let me know or I will stick on eBay...

ex, cheers mate... just a thought - is that wire / circuit used in Clifford installs?? (just remembered I have the alarm disconnected at the moment and that might be the issue...)

Can anyone answer the above about the bulb blowing or a break in the Blue wire causing a good alt not too charge?? I'm not getting any charge from the alternator and no battery light on - But, I'm also not seeing the bat light when I turn on the ignition... I have checked the blue lead is plugged in near the starter and 'brightened' up all the connections, tried another battery (as I ran the other one down) and also a diode pack... Not changed the alt itself yet or checked the LED in the clocks...

tonedef, did you get anywhere with this?