Supercharged

Crasher, was also thinking it was maybe more efficient to cool the 5barr pump under the car than in a tank of fuel?

Skimask, cheers mate... I'll be changing the lines too as i'm fitting new calipers (fronts), done fluid changes before with Eezybleed so fine with that. I have access to a decent tool i think - does it need to be a certain size? The pipe bender I have is for house plumbing, do I just need a smaller version of that - ie slots inside the pipe?

The intank lift pump is only about £20. The 16V uses a mechanical injection system hence the high pressure and braided lines. Late G60's, VR's and 8v's use the single pump.

Yep - 15 mins... Unhook from TB drop lower shelf Unhook from pedal Old one out and new one in Only good tip is to put the grommet that pulls out with the cable back onto the car and pull the new cable thru (you'll see what i mean when you fo it)

They come in a sleave and the 'factory' oil goes after a while (10 years) They also stretch with age and you run out of adjustment, just get a new one - you'll probably think it's the best £20 you've ever spent!

Cheers, how do they know the dimensions tho - do they have a diagram to go from? Also what size (diam) are the VAG ones?

Alrite mate, not sure i spelt that right by the way... I think the idea is to stop the inlet getting heat transfered from the head but Daren's the guy to ask really as to if they make a real difference - I think he was selling them at one point...

Heeello Can anyone explain the difference between the different materials that you can get for making up the solid brake lines as I keep getting conflicting info.. Copper, Steel etc - anything else better? - I've noticed they seem to look painted on some cars, SEAT's seem to use green ones... best place to get them? I assume fitting is easy (just plumbing) but i've never done it before - what's needed to do them? Is it just pipe flaring tools or do I need a tool to bend them into shape? - any other speacial fixings needed from VW like the end nuts etc?? TIA Soup

Hmmm... maybe a knackered battery if it can cause this??

Hi mate... It's going in the boot I take it... lift one or the rear seats and maybe run it from the seat belt locks.

Hmmm - I knew it must have been a while ago to have been worth all the work - however bad it was it still looked fine from the outside, suprised it wasn't in the first couple of years really.... 11 years is still scary tho - when it's all stripped it would be interesting to get some old suspension and wheels on there and do a 'crash test' - maybe call top gear or something!

Mocal oil cooler is a must for keeping the engine itself cool... Induction wise - Cold air feed FMIC Boost return mod Phelonic spacer on the inlet Aquamist

It's standard digifant (Mk2 GTi's etc) but not got ETKA access right now...

LOL - still can't believe that!

Yeah, that plus the car is very low and also the stud pattern and PCD are not correct for the car and the offset is completly wrong... if it was ET60 you have a chance using adapters but ET13 will stick out too far in the first place...

If you take that plug off you'll find it's a blank (sensor only fitted on US models) I think you can get that pipe seperatly if it's not coming from the big 'un

zoglet, yeah thought so... It may be complicated but it's probably well worth taking those 2 days leave and going up there, just book into a B&B for a night and that way they also have time to order and get in anything needed (Stealth are still a smallish business so obviously can't keep everything in stock) - People travel from all over the place but it's worth it for that extra knowledge of these cars. 80k seems to be the mileage with Corrado's and VW's in general where alot of parts need replacing for the first time, it may be a costly time but think of it as an investment for the next 10 years!

With great difficulty!

ZippyVR6, 2 bottles (3 litres) for a 30% mix...

Sheeet!! - maybe blocked oil feed to charger...

BBT are cheap rubbish... VW sell Quantum leads that again are a bit dodgy but have been recently redesigned I have been told... Corrado's came with black Beru leads which you can still buy using individual part numbers but it's hit or mis weather you get red or black ones... VW Spares sell Beru's in kits.

..and flocking never lasts and you get bits coming off everywhere

Well, he's right that you do need to be careful especially with aftermarket alloys etc but in this case it's just that standard 4-stud bolts and should be the ones you currently use on the RM's... That said, they are only a quid or so each and I would get new ones if the current ones are over 10 years old.

Ah, it was the mk1 I was thinkin of then I reckon... Incidently they are currently building a VR6 Turbo Corrado - It's purple in colour so they are calling it the Stealth Bummer... :lol:

I assume it was AmD you used to use... Stealth are really the only people i'd trust with a VR6, Vince knows the engine inside out, well worth a trip and fairly easy for you to get there going straight up the M1. What was done by VW and what are the symptoms? - it may be something trivial like they have forgotten to plug the MAF back in - my local dealer did the same when servicing one of our work cars... The other thing they forget to do with these 'old' cars is running thru the basic settings procedure after resetting the ECU.